Thread: West System Use?

Add the tint after hardener but before mixing. Mix them both in at same time.

As for what to use for tinting, we use west systems own black tint. Never had issue with it bleeding and it doesn't take much at all.

The theory with using west systems black tint is that everything is in the mix is resin based and designed to be used together.

We use Solid Solutions pigment paste with Techniglue at work, it definitely doesn't bleed out.

I'm quite convinced that there's sorcery of some kind happening with the paste...a drop of pigment the size of a grain of rice turns an orange-sized blob of resin completely black

I have selected the timber to do a trial on, a piece of what I believe to be Salmon Gum and think that a green epoxy colour would compliment it well instead of black.

However, I am struggling to find a green colour additive. To that end I have found a Malachite stone (from Pops Shed) that may suffice, but the obvious drawback is, can I put it through a thicknesser afterwards to clean up?

Malachite - 50 grams - Woodturning Tools and Timber, Woodturner Accessories, Woodcarver Supplies, Woodturning Equipment

G'day Cava
I used Solid Solutions dynamic pigment black. Cost $17 for 50 g and as Elan said a drop or two will colour a cup of resin They also have some vibrant colours if that's the look you are after.

Tony

Hi Tony,

I looked at the Solid Solutions site, and the only quasi suitable green was in their Pearl Solutions range.

Being a pearl/reflective additive, I feel that it would not give me the effect I was after.

George

Malachite is a pretty soft mineral; it'll probably dull your blades a bit, but it shouldn't take big chunks out if them.

Also, you will be using such a small quantity (West Systems recommends that a resin based pigment represent <2% of the total mix) and the pigment will be suspended in the epoxy matrix, so you shouldn't have a problem.

I know it's not West Systems, but the colouring advice in respect to System Three Epoxy is
1. Add the pigment to the resin and mix in.
2. measure the hardener in proportion to the quantity of coloured resin.
3. mix.

but I note that System Three has a 10% tolerance on the mixing ratio, so <2% colour would fall within that 10% tolerance.

I always add the colour before the hardener. My logic on doing that is that sometimes I want a slightly less solid colour so it is easier to add the colour a few drops at a time. I used Feast Watson prooftint and so far from this product range only used the black and oak colours. For other colours I have used the powders that you get from the hobby store.

According to West Systems, in reference to the 501/502 (white/black) pigments:

MIX RATIOMix the WEST SYSTEM® resin and hardener first asper instructions, taking great care to mix thoroughly,then gradually stir in the additive at a rate of 3% byweight or approximately 1 teaspoon of pigment per230ml of mixed epoxy

link for reference:
http://www.westsystem.com.au/files/p...01-502_pig.pdf

Enjoy

Hi Cava

I always add any thickener or colouring to West resin first, stir slowly so as not to incorporate bubbles, and then add the hardener. This gives you more time. Also I perfer their 206 slow hardener or even their 209 extra slow. Same reason - working time.

Also, please note that you have to measure west products very accurately - to within 3% - which is difficult with small quantities.

Heed the safety warnings; you can acquire a cumulative sensitivity - I get a twitch in my eye, a friend reacts strongly - sore, runny eyes with black circles, sweats, tremours, migraine for 3-4 days - most unpleasant. And all from building one laminated dinghy.

Happy epoxying!

Graeme

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Also, please note that you have to measure west products very accurately - to within 3% - which is difficult with small quantities.

This is the issue that I anticipate possibly having - so apart from an accurate scale, what is the best (easiest) way to measure hobbiest quantities? With a large syringe?

George

Measuring can be done easily with digital kitchen scales, I use paper cafe cups. Place the cup on the scales before turning them on, tip in the epoxy, calculate the hardner required and tip it in. Then mix. [emoji1]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by cava

This is the issue that I anticipate possibly having - so apart from an accurate scale, what is the best (easiest) way to measure hobbiest quantities? With a large syringe?

George

I always just measure by volume by eye, never had a batch not set, but maybe Techniglue has more tolerance than West System.

Speaking of warning statements, my favorite one is on the Techniglue hardener: Suspected of causing genetic defects.

For small volumes I use the small plastic shot glasses from Woolworths. They cost something like $2 for 100.

They are clear and you can use a plastic coffee stirrer and gram scale.