Thread: Who's soundproofed their workshop?

Forgot to mention that I'll probably change a couple of machines for models that don't make as much noise.

Specifically a new thicknesser with a induction motor (I have a Jet screamer) and I'd consider helix cutters.

I think metabo make a mitre saw with a induction motor too, but I can't seem to find it on their website.

***edit*** found it: http://www.justtools.com.au/prod798.htm

Cheers

I am not too sure how soundproof my workshop is, I have nearly finished lining it. it is 8x6x2.7.

The walls are insulated with 2.5 fibreglass batts, then covered with 12mm plasterboard, the ceiling has the same 2.5 batts covered with 3mm MDF.
When I mounteed the plaster and the MDF, I attached some 2x1 pine battons to the top hat sections first. These also aided in holding the batts in place.

After lining, I believe the weak spots in relation to sound escaping are the window, PA door and the main roller door.

The window I dont think I can do anything with, the PA door can be lined with MDF over 2.5 batts, the roller door is again another issue re: noise reduction.

The main machinery I use in the evening (nothing loud after 8pm) is the lathe and the air compressor.

Any cutting I manage to get done between 5:30 and 7pm.

Well if you are looking at spending 5K on the exercise you might find the services of an Acoustic Consultant helpfull. They will be able to visit your location and understand what kinds of sound you want to block out(certain high pitched frequencies) and prepare a short brief of what you could do and what kind wall build up with a certain type of insulation would work best. Try the yellow pages.

A cheaper clone version of the Metabo is sold by Trade Tools direct see:

TradeTools Direct - Serious Tools...Seriously Discounted!

I have one of these quiet machines and did a little review here https://www.woodworkforums.com/f171/s...review-100781/:

I forgot to mention that apart from machining timber, one of the loudest noises in my workshop was coming from the industrial vacuum cleaner which operates while attached to sanders, joiners etc. The cheapies are absolute screamers. We often don't realise how long we have these things operating for.

That was one of the reasons I took the plunge on a Festool vac. The noise is far less invasive of the surroundings. There may be cheaper quiet alternatives or even vacs with adjustable suction which can be toned down when maximum suction is not required.

5k is a lot to drop on a shed that you might have to leave or be kicked out of.

Originally Posted by rsser

5k is a lot to drop on a shed that you might have to leave or be kicked out of.

5k does seems a lot, but I look at it this way...25k is a lot to drop on a shed I can't use. 30k for a shed I can use is much better value for money.

Cheers

Originally Posted by TP1

I forgot to mention that apart from machining timber, one of the loudest noises in my workshop was coming from the industrial vacuum cleaner which operates while attached to sanders, joiners etc. The cheapies are absolute screamers. We often don't realise how long we have these things operating for.

That was one of the reasons I took the plunge on a Festool vac. The noise is far less invasive of the surroundings. There may be cheaper quiet alternatives or even vacs with adjustable suction which can be toned down when maximum suction is not required.

Yeah I agree with that, especially since sanding usually isn't a quick process. My stationary dust extrators are not too loud, but the vac I have on wheels which I use with my rotex one noisy bugger.

Cheers

Originally Posted by JT

Well if you are looking at spending 5K on the exercise you might find the services of an Acoustic Consultant helpfull. They will be able to visit your location and understand what kinds of sound you want to block out(certain high pitched frequencies) and prepare a short brief of what you could do and what kind wall build up with a certain type of insulation would work best. Try the yellow pages.

That's a good idea. I might do that if it's not too expensive. My main worry is spending all that money doing the soundproofing, only to find out it's doesn't work well enough and I still can't work at night. That would be a waste of money . Hopefully an expert can make sure I implement the best soundproofing for the structure and types of noises I make.

Cheers

I think trying to soundproof the shed will be very difficult, as someone pointed out especially the roller and PA door.

It might be easier to make a sound proof room within the shed but that may not be possible from a practical point of view i.e. you may not have the space.

Is the shed also the garage that needs to have vehicle accesss? If so, much harder.

It may not be an issue but be careful re council and shed. They may not consider a shed workshop should operate after a specific time sound proofed or not.
This may be part and parcel on how the shed building application goes to council as well, ie shed or workshop.

Originally Posted by murray44

I think trying to soundproof the shed will be very difficult, as someone pointed out especially the roller and PA door.

It might be easier to make a sound proof room within the shed but that may not be possible from a practical point of view i.e. you may not have the space.

Is the shed also the garage that needs to have vehicle accesss? If so, much harder.

Nope its going to be a single purpose woodworking shed. No cars allowed! So I guess I block up one of the two roller door spots and replace the remaining roller door with one of those panel lift doors. Then it could have sound insulation stuff behind it.

Just a thought but if the roller door is difficult to insulate, why not have a sliding door, especially if it is not for vehicles etc.

I've got one on my 4.5m wide shed so the opening is half that width. There is some thickness to the frame so you could insulate it. I prefer the slider because there is more usable space behind it and you don't need a separate PA door.

Garry

Check the Renovation forum - info on soundproofing there.

Basically (working from memory) two layers of standard plasterboard, mounted on a metal track that is secured through rubber isolating bushes and a layer of rockwool insulation in the cavity.

About your only option for the garage door - if it's a panellift door - is to can glue polystyrene foam to it.