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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post


    I'm seeing Bunnings' price for 2400x1200 16mm MDF is $29.50, and $33.00 for 18mm

    a similar size 2400x1200 17mm ply sheet is $92.30 and it's a special order.
    even CD structural ply is about 2x the cost of MDF -- $56 for 15mm and $65 for 17mm and then you would have all the drama of filling both sides, edging the exposed edges and painting.

    Out of interest what is the comparative costs of MDF and ply in your local Bunnings
    That's what happens when you browse bunnings online on a phone. lol This is the one I was looking at: Structural CD Plywood 2400 x 1200mm 17mm | Bunnings Warehouse

    I am happy to use MDF but just concerned about the weight it could hold (clothes wise) if I was to extend the unit and redo my walk-in as well. What do builders use?

    I could pay someone to do this and probably for cheaper but there is a satisfaction that comes with building something with your own hands and given I outsource everything else, would love to actually do something hands on.

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by nogi View Post
    That's what happens when you browse bunnings online on a phone. lol This is the one I was looking at: Structural CD Plywood 2400 x 1200mm 17mm | Bunnings Warehouse

    I am happy to use MDF but just concerned about the weight it could hold (clothes wise) if I was to extend the unit and redo my walk-in as well. What do builders use?

    I could pay someone to do this and probably for cheaper but there is a satisfaction that comes with building something with your own hands and given I outsource everything else, would love to actually do something hands on.
    if you are limited to CD Plywood pick something else.

    years ago, I used CD ply for a kitchen cabinet. It worked, but it was not a good material choice.
    in retrospect, each sheet should have been filled, sanded, primed and the initial top coat applied before any cutting to size. The edges could be filled and sanded before the final top coat. Given the volume of filler required and the tools I needed to buy to aid the finishing, AB or AA ply would have been more cost effective.

    Builders use Melamine coated or laminated particle board -- controlling the edge chipping is an issue for home users. You should be able to buy Melamine edging tape with heat activated adhesive.


    There's a fair amount of design work in that unit you want to build. So don't discount the satisfaction of developing a successful design.

    If you use MDF, the load capacity should not be an issue. As a guide, a corner unit would be about 450 deep (to each wall) and the rotating component about 800mm in "diameter". The Sagulator – WoodBin is your friend in terms of load capacity
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by nogi View Post
    That's what happens when you browse bunnings online on a phone. lol This is the one I was looking at: Structural CD Plywood 2400 x 1200mm 17mm | Bunnings Warehouse

    I am happy to use MDF but just concerned about the weight it could hold (clothes wise) if I was to extend the unit and redo my walk-in as well. What do builders use?

    I could pay someone to do this and probably for cheaper but there is a satisfaction that comes with building something with your own hands and given I outsource everything else, would love to actually do something hands on.
    Have a close look at the CD PLYWOOD in your Bunnings. I did when looking for ply for a Laundry built in. The surface is terrible (rough) and you would have to laminate it to get a good surface to paint or varnish. Beside that, the sheets I looked at were badly warped.

  5. #19
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    Aug 2003
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    Conder, ACT
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    Plywood face veneer qualities
    Plywood comes in a variety of face veneers for both decorative & non decorative uses.

    ........... stores have a range of face qualities available, from AA appearance grade & Marine Plywood to CD, DD & Pallet grade plywood.
    A Grade Face
    Veneer quality "A" has an appearance grade face with no visible defects. "A" grade veneer faces are suitable for clear finishing. Suitable to be used in applications where surface decorative appearance is a primary consideration.
    Species include Hoop Pine & Marine Ply.
    B Grade Face
    Veneer quality "B" has an appearance grade face. B grade veneer faces are suitable for high quality staining and paint finishing. However small, sound knots are allowed in a B grade face. Plywood species include Fijian Cedar, Hoop Pine, Kauri Pine and Radiata Pine.
    C Grade Face
    Veneer quality "C" is a non-appearance grade face with knots and defects filled. C grade veneer faces are for applications requiring a solid non decorative surface.
    A CD plywood sheet has a face veneer quality of C grade & a back veneer quality of D grade.
    D Grade Face
    Veneer quality "D" is a non-appearance grade face where limited knots are defects are permitted. D grade veneer faces are suitable for applications where appearance is not important such as structural purposes.
    A DD plywood sheet has a face and back veneer quality of D grade.

  6. #20
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    I would be putting in a "I am glad I thought of this" panel as for when a shoe decides to fall off while it is at the back and jam the works.

  7. #21
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    So I finally got around to starting this. Working on the inside spinning bit first. It's certainly heavy. Material is 16mm MDF, joins are with Kregg K4.






  8. #22
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    That's enough for tonight.





    Some of the shelves weren't cut right at bunnings. Too much to sand off, what do I need to get to make quick work of it?

  9. #23
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    Ontario, Canada
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    Default Sweet

    When you're finished with that one, could you make me one also please?

  10. #24
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    I like how you are making it in the lounge room.

    What an understanding wife.

    Do you have a router? You could use one of the shelves as a template. A bearinged trim router bit and a couple of clamps will make short work of it. You could use that outdoor BBQ table as a work bench.

  11. #25
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spiritwolfe View Post
    When you're finished with that one, could you make me one also please?
    Hahaha all my nieces are coming out of the woodwork too and lining up.

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I like how you are making it in the lounge room.

    What an understanding wife.

    Do you have a router? You could use one of the shelves as a template. A bearinged trim router bit and a couple of clamps will make short work of it. You could use that outdoor BBQ table as a work bench.
    She was just happy I moved my work out of the main lounge area where I was using the coffee table as my work bench

    I don't have a router but wondering whether an electric planer would do the job and save me from taking the shelves out?

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by nogi View Post
    I don't have a router but wondering whether an electric planer would do the job and save me from taking the shelves out?
    the planer would probably work unless the amount to be taken off is greater at one end. However you do it -- router, planer or belt sander -- it will be messy and not particularly healthy (because of the dust) if you do the trimming inside.

    If Bunnings managed to cut the shelves in slightly differing sizes, did they at least manage to cut them square?

    Also, how are you planning on finishing the unit?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  13. #27
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    Yeah it looks square as it's out the same amount on both ends. It doesn't look too bad, I could always just leave as is.

    To finish will be undercoat + paint (same colour as wall).

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