Thread: Wood for hood bows

Are the original bows laminated or one piece -- which would indicate steam bending. My guess is the originals are steam bent.

When laminating, the ideal is to use an odd number of laminates -- which for 7/8" would imply 7 x 1/8" or 5 x 4.5 mm.

steam bending could be all one stick.

Use straight grained timber

What Ian said.

I have some Osage Orange I milled into small 50mm thick slabs (from old cracked logs unfortunately) years ago to later process into strips for laminating for a rocking chair. I also have some good 150/200x40mm Blackwood planks I was keeping for the same purpose. These timbers may well suit your needs

Thanks guys, I'm not a woodworking person I've wandered in from next door from metalworkforum.com. So it seems that if I end up going the laminating route, rather than buying a sheet of say 3mm veneer from a supplier I need to find a woodworker who has the equipment and timber to make the strips I need.

The original is one piece of timber so presumably it was steam bent. I was shying away from steam bending but after looking at a few youtube videos the learning curve is not steep and the equipment needed is basic so that is feasible. Any suggestions as to a type of wood suitable for steam bending? Appearance is not important. I'm thinking a hardwood would be better than a softwood from point of view of the screws staying put?

Why not attempt to identify the timber and get the same or close Bob ? What sort of Car and made where ? Didn't the English Cars from back then use Ash . Pretty sure the Morgans Did with a rough guess . US Ash is close to the same type as the English I think , Looks very similar, and is Available . If not and an Aussie replacement is fine then Blackwood is a good steam bender . Plenty of that around . Not sure about SE Qld though .

Rob

The vintage Car Club in Toowoomba used to have adjustable jigs for that purpose, they may be worth contacting, I imagine there would be some expertise as to what type of timber and method also.
I have done hood bows a number of times years ago and have always laminated them.
I can't remember the timber type, it was what was recommended be a late joiner friend, and worked very well.
The car I am doing at the moment has the curve at each end finger jointed to the top rail, however this is a different situation as it is not a tourer and has solid bodywork attached to a timber frame.

High Bob

I'd explore the car club option first. Second choice would be to talk to a local wooden boat builder and see if he will make them for you.

If you decide to steam bend yourself, a few considerations. The "modern" steam ben in a plastic bage method is far easier to do than the "traditional" steambox method. Nevertheless, you will still need :

• steam generator (retail $100 upwards) or time to DIY from an old kettle, pressure cooker, boiler, etc. plus a hose securely attached.
• bending form (mold) with stainless steel backing strap to minimise surface fracturing.
• Practice. = essential; there is a learning curve.

Wood springs back, so you have to bend further than you want to allow for this memory. Generally, pine springs back more than hardwood, but not always.

Bending wood should be very straight grained and free of all blemishes. It will usually snap on imperfections.

Kiln dried wood does not steam bend very well due to internal damage done during the drying/reconditioning process. Air dried timber ideally with a moisture content around 18-20% is best.

After steaming, wood must be secured in the bent condition for 10-15 days while it cures and "forgets" that it wants to spring back.

Watch a few youtube videos.

Good Luck


Graeme