Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    127

    Default Wood plugs - colour

    Hey guys, not sure where to start with this. I'm working on a plywood table and a design choice I've made is to use 4 wood plugs on the top of the table to conceal where bolts will be attaching it to the legs. I'd quite like to use coloured plugs to offset the clean plywood finish but I'm not sure quite what to do, as I want to make them coloured and I want the finish to be seamless/flush. Does anyone have a recommendation?

    I was thinking use dowel to make the plug, sand it down flush and then paint it. But I'm not sure that's the best way to do it to achieve a really seamless finish.

    Trying to make it look like this Mark Tuckey number

    DT_locatordark_image_1920.jpg

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    How thick will the top be?

    I believe that you will not have enough material left in a single sheet ply top to support anything if you are going to recess the bolts and plug them.

    I am guessing that the top would most likely need to be done as a form of torsion box, with substantial timber blocks in the core at the mounting points, absorbing the load from the skins over a wide area and coupling it to the mounting bolts and legs. I would also be very wary of a single bolt per corner arrangement unless the leg assemblies have full length stretchers very well integrated into them. With a single bolt per corner arrangement as shown in the pic, racking forces applied by people inadvertently pushing the end of the table, e.g leaning their bum against the end while standing, or pushing a chair backwards with hands at table end when leaving chair, will couple from the top to the leg assembly via the bolt or screw, trying to work the fastener in the hole and crushing material ultimately leading to structural failure and collapse.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,550

    Default

    You can buy tapered plug cutters at Carbatec & McJing's. Cut the plugs from whatever material you like and tap them in with a bit of glue on them. Then pare them down flush & sand.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Thanks, guys. I was planning to face glue 18mm ply boards to make a really solid top. Not quite sure what you mean by torsion box, Malb. I think you might a little more experienced at all this than me! Any chance you link to an image or a video? Thanks

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Geelong
    Posts
    181

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zoovegroover View Post
    Any chance you link to an image or a video?
    Sir Google can help you with that request. Search for 'Torsion Box' and click on the images tab, that should give you an idea of what malb means. Although in my opinion a 36mm ply piece will be stiff enough for a small table like that (i assume that it's a coffee table ....right?). You may find that face gluing ply isn't as easy as it seems. I've done a few before and you need a lot of weight evenly distributed on top to 'clamp' the two faces together.

    The plug cutters mentioned above may not be big enough for your needs if you are trying to hide bolts. In the past i have used dowels to cover similar sized holes but then you are limited in colour somewhat unless you want to have a go at making your own. Have a look on your tube if you are interested in making dowels, Mathias Wandel has a good channel showing how to make them. That way you won't need to buy more one-use tools you can just use a chisel or a plane blade.

    Good Luck..

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    720

    Default

    Hi,personally I think the inset plug is probably decorative and doesn't hide any fixing.
    If I were making the table I would screw the leg assembly from underneath.

    I wouldn't think a thick top is necessary or desirable as the design looks fine as it it.
    If you want to inset a decorative disc in the top it can be drilled out and a plug made with a plug cutter,for larger discs use a forstner type bit and then turn your infill on a lathe from contrasting timber.Your infill could also be made square or rectangular making it easy to cut and fit.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Thanks for all the tips, guys. Torsion Box looks a little advanced for me! I'm hearing forstner bits shouldn't be used in a hand drill. Is that your experience, too? I don't have a drill press, and I couldn't get a slab that big under it, even if I did!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
    Posts
    3,429

    Default

    Buy a simple plunge adaptor for your electric drill, this will allow you to drill at exactly 90°. Another alternative would be to use a router fitted with a template guide, with this you could use any shape you want.

    Keeping with the angular look though why not use square inserts instead of round?

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    720

    Default

    I have used forstner bits in a cordless drill,they are a bit safer if used at lower speed and they are not really big diameter ones.
    I prefer the carbide tipped ones myself,have only bought quite cheap Chinese ones off ebay but they work fine for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by zoovegroover View Post
    Thanks for all the tips, guys. Torsion Box looks a little advanced for me! I'm hearing forstner bits shouldn't be used in a hand drill. Is that your experience, too? I don't have a drill press, and I couldn't get a slab that big under it, even if I did!

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    127

    Default

    I wasn't aware those drill guides even existed. Great tip, thanks! Router template is another good idea. I've never used a guide bushing in my router but this would be a good excuse to try it.

Similar Threads

  1. Timber plugs in mortar before the days of star plugs.
    By KevinB in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 5th August 2015, 12:49 AM
  2. keeping the colour in wood
    By mongrell in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 8th June 2011, 03:18 PM
  3. wood staining: Chocolate colour
    By ftje in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 25th February 2007, 11:23 PM
  4. Linseed oil + old wood = black colour
    By JB in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 17th May 2005, 12:39 PM
  5. What colour wood filler for staining
    By Collin in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 28th August 2003, 09:06 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •