Results 46 to 60 of 88
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6th June 2017, 09:01 AM #46
Paul, some claim truly reliable 'locking' castors exist, but I haven't seen any yet, either. My take is that even if the wheels do lock securely, there'll be some small amount of bounce in the rubber tyres, which makes for less pleasurable planing & hammering on it. There have been several threads on the topic of moveable benches, have a look here & here for some discussions & 'solutions'. The best of all possible worlds seems to be cam-operated castors which can be easily engaged & dis-engaged when you get the bench where you want it.
The weight of any bench depends on way too many factors to give an 'average'; overall size & dimensions of components being the most obvious of these. This small bench I made a while ago was conceived as something I could lift onto my regular bench to raise the working height when I needed it, but I got a bit carried away & added some extras to my original design. The top ended up weighing in at 45Kg, which at my age & stage of decrepitude is way too heavy to be lifting on & off a 900mm high bench on a regular basis! So it got its own undercarriage which takes the total weight to around 60Kg. That's adequate for occasional use, but a little light-on for an everyday bench, imo, so maybe think ~75Kg as a good starting point? You don't have to have all of the weight in the bench itself, an under-bench tray that you can chuck something heavy in, would help, & you can remove the ballast when you need to wheel it about, making that job a bit easier.
Cheers,IW
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6th June 2017 09:01 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th June 2017, 12:26 PM #47Member
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Thank you all, from the feedback I would need something else to stabilise so from chief tiffs suggestion. These might be useful to fully lockdown the bench when its set in position to avoid any movement: Look at this on eBay 4pcs M16 x 120mm Adjustable Feet Glides Levelling Leg Tilting Foot Heavy Duty | eBay
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6th June 2017, 06:14 PM #48
Paul if want the castors then you might consider the lever wedge on the end of the table leg similar to this DoorJammer | Official Website, portable door security
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6th June 2017, 09:39 PM #49GOLD MEMBER
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This thread is not new, but still is not old, so I have a few ideas that anyone could benefit from.
Kreg Multi Mark
MicroJig Dado Stop and Matchfit Clamps for cutting dados
Kreg K4 or K5
MicroJig Gripper to keep your hands away from the blade on a tablesaw or router table
Kreg Bench Clamp with clamp base
Kreg Hand Clamp
Books "By Hound and Eye" & "By Hand and Eye" - both are gold
Gifkins Dovetail Jig
All available from Carbatec apart from the Gifkins jig
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7th June 2017, 08:59 AM #50
That's the basic idea; only issue is the length. Those 75kg castors you linked to have a 100mm height so these 120mm adjusters would need to be set very low on the legs. I see that the seller also has 150 and 200mm long feet; in this case the longer the better. What are the leg dimensions of the bench going to be?
Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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7th June 2017, 11:17 AM #51Member
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Legs are going to be 70Wx70D x 700H per post with an overall width of 600 for the bench . the wheels will add 100mm height and then top with at least 75mm high. Total height of workbench at least 875mm.
I was planning to use the levelling legs in the rail.
Thanks for the input, the height of the levelling legs I think the 200mm would be safer.
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7th June 2017, 01:26 PM #52New Member
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I'll have to get to a desktop rather than on my phone to write a proper reply... meanwhile feel free to look around my website. Charles Freeborn Fine Furniture and Accessories – Handmade Fine Furniture and Accessories
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7th June 2017, 02:21 PM #53Member
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Wow some great pieces of work here. Amazing.
Sent from my F1f using TapatalkLast edited by Big Shed; 7th June 2017 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Unnecessary quoting and link removed
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8th June 2017, 01:16 AM #54New Member
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Many thanks. So, where were we? As already said - what your needs are will be dictated by what type(s) of projects you anticipate. If you're going to be mostly buying ready prepared dimensional lumber and cutting to shape and length you'll not need heavy milling equipment (jointer, planer, etc). At least not yet. If you'll be using veneer panels or laying up your own veneer that's a different set up too.
So, that said, I began over 35 years ago working as a carpenter. I'd set up saw horses in the customers garage or driveway, get out my miter saw, hand circular saw with a straight guide, a router and my yankee screwdriver (cordless tools didn't exist yet) and go to work.
My strategy has always been to choose the project (in my case get the job) first and then work out the tooling. That is how I built my entire collection over all of those years. I'd secure a commission and then tool up for it. When buying tools I'd get the highest quality I could afford, especially if I anticipated using it repeatedly in the future. I still have many tools I bought in the early 80's. So here's my starter list:
Layout and measuring:
Tape measure, 1' and 2' rulers (doubles as straight edge), sliding square (get a Starrett if you can find and afford it), compass, flexible curves, etc.
Hand tools:
Chisels (3 or 4 will do), block plane, bench plane (my favorite is a #5, but a 4 will be fine) Back saw (tenon saw), regular hand saw. Mallet, hammer, awl other misc. things that ride along in your tool belt.
Power tools: (get really good safety equipment - glasses - ear plugs, etc)
Miter saw (chop saw), circular saw, or better yet one of the new track saws out there if you plan to build plywood cases, Jigsaw (I like the Bosch), screw gun, drill and a router - definitely a router, or two (I probably have 12 routers in various tables or set ups.
When you graduate to stationary power tools the table saw is the first (If you can get a SawStop down there I highly recommend it), then jointer, an edge sander then planer. Drill press is good too. A band saw is hugely useful for curved work and if you plan to re-saw solid lumber.
You will build a collection of small bits and cutters as you go. I probably have $10k in router bits alone. Get countersinking drill bits for wood screws right off. Driver bits for various types of screw heads will follow. A plug cutter is great in the drill press for hiding screw heads. A biscuit cutter (Lamello) is great for cabinets, and a Domino is excellent for solid wood joinery.
Keep us posted and congrats on your first projects. You're well on your way to a very rewarding hobby.Last edited by charlesfreeborn; 8th June 2017 at 01:18 AM. Reason: additional information
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15th June 2017, 05:55 PM #55Member
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So leaving my job this Friday so full steam ahead building the workbench next week. As a leaving gift my team bought me the collins complete woodworkers manual book. It's awesome
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15th June 2017, 08:37 PM #56Intermediate Member
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15th June 2017, 09:05 PM #57Member
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Really impressed by it. Covers everything for a beginner like me.
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19th June 2017, 06:01 PM #58Member
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Started on the workbench. One leg down, other in progress. The hardwood is tough stuff, nice to cut but a bastard to drill. Dowelled the butt joints and also screwed with 14g batten screws.
I've got my 5mm wood screw bit stuck. Tried everything to get it out but its stuck fast. Any ideas?
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19th June 2017, 06:52 PM #59
Stick a length of some sort of rigid tubing over it and wiggle it around in an anti-clockwise direction.
Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.
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19th June 2017, 07:05 PM #60Member
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