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  1. #1
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    Default wooden fascia - repair or colourbond it?

    hi guys!

    right now im having a dilemma in either having to repair my wooden fascia (mostly only corners have started to rot?) or covering them with colorbond!

    If i was to go ahead with just repairin/repainting my wooden fascia

    1) is it a good idea to install those metal corners thingy? (a piece of thin metal that covers the corners - so that the timber wouldnt split again (how true is that i dunno - was told by a handyman))

    2) can some1 recommend me a paint that is used for outdoor timber? (some1 told me WATTYL? comes with 10yr warrenty - so does that mean the paint will not peel off within 10 yrs if not i get my money back? or how does these paint warrenty work?)

    3) besides just replacing the rotten corners - are there other measures i could take to prevent wood rot?/splitting?....etc

    lastly the price between fixing/painting my wooden fascia is abt 3.5K but installin the colorbond cover will set me back a whoopin 4.5K (but then i would still need to hire some1 to paint the Eves which will roughly cost abt 1K)

    so all up the colorbond fascia will cost me abt 2K more than just repairing the fascia

    any advice/comments are greatly appreciated!

    many thanks
    ryan

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  3. #2
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    Ryan, wait for Journeyman Mick's answer for the real advice! In the meantime:
    Quote Originally Posted by ryan23
    1) is it a good idea to install those metal corners thingy? (a piece of thin metal that covers the corners - so that the timber wouldnt split again (how true is that i dunno - was told by a handyman))
    I don't like them, they just keep moisture in and encourage rot. How badly are these fascias rotted anyway?? I'd look hard at just replacing the bad bits rather than the whole lot. They'd have to be absolute shockers to warrant complete replacement, and if they were that bad I'd start to be worried about the soffitt framing and rafter tails as well.

    I have often found that a bit of a grind out of the bad bits, a prime coat and some builder's bog will have them looking like new, but you have to make sure that there is no ongoing problem with water or whatever or you are wasting your time.

    2) can some1 recommend me a paint that is used for outdoor timber? (some1 told me WATTYL? comes with 10yr warrenty - so does that mean the paint will not peel off within 10 yrs if not i get my money back? or how does these paint warrenty work?)
    Any good quality paint applied STRICTLY in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions will carry a similar warranty. Don't bother trying to claim if your fascia paint fails though! You will need evidence of correct application, including cleaning sanding and priming... just do the job properly and you shouldn't have a problem.
    3) besides just replacing the rotten corners - are there other measures i could take to prevent wood rot?/splitting?....etc
    YEP! PRIME the timber properly before assembly, and that means the inside of every join as well as the backs of the fascias. Note: BEFORE assembly!
    lastly the price between fixing/painting my wooden fascia is abt 3.5K but installin the colorbond cover will set me back a whoopin 4.5K (but then i would still need to hire some1 to paint the Eves which will roughly cost abt 1K)so all up the colorbond fascia will cost me abt 2K more than just repairing the fascia
    :eek: :eek: :eek: Do you live in a Palace??? Is someone having a go at you here??
    I am not sure what you mean by colorbond cover. If you mean colorbond cover over the existing timber fascias...DON'T. The problem will still exist, you just won't see it for a year or two till the timber rots out completely and falls down. If you mean replace the existing with Colorbond fascias... well maybe, but consider whether they are appropriate to the style of house.

    Seems like a lot of bucks for a fascia job!

    Cheers,

    P
    Last edited by bitingmidge; 14th Dec 2004 at 09:12 PM.

  4. #3
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    Ryan,

    About 10 years ago when plumbers were replacing our house guttering they noticed that on two corners the wooden facias were in bad repair and had some splits in them.

    Rather than hold up the work I went to Bunnings and got some of those metal corner thingies and they put them on the suspect corners. After painting they are not noticeable and the facias are still okay. I did seal the edges betwen the metal and the timber with silicone to stop any moisture getting in.

    The guarantee on paint I think is printed on the cans. I think it is limited as to the details of the warranty. Check a can to make sure.


    Peter.

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    Talking

    Ryan,



    When we built our place 25 years ago the builder got a pile of what was then very ordinary Oregon, and got us to paint pink primer (oil based) then white undercoat then solarguard. This included the 45 degree mitres in the corner because he reckoned they would rot their first. Seemed to work not a sign of rot anywhere, and I might add this was not a recommended finish at the time which encouraged solarguard only. I would suggest (wait for journeyman Mick he is of more value than I am) simply cutting back the facia from the corners, mitering and replacing but not before undercoating the joins first, you will not need to replace much and the treated pine and undercoated facia available today should be fine for the purpose.



    Regards, John.

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    Ryan,
    what the Midge said! If sections are badly rotted out mitre cut them back to the next rafter and replace that section like John said. Heaps of primer on all the hidden bits, follow the instructions of the paint of your choice making sure that you fill even the smallest gap in the joins. Preferably with a polyurethane sealant like Bostik Seal&Flex or Sikaflex, but No More Gaps is okay. Check all your gutters and barge capping to make sure there's no leaks which may have caused the rot.

    Peter,
    I don't like the metal brackets for the reason that Midge has stated, trapping of moisture leading to more rot. You've sealed out all the moisture (hopefully) and avoided problems but it's not a practice I'd recomend.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  7. #6
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    thanks heaps for the advice!!!

    the colorbond thingy was actually suggested to me by MANY people (including guys who repair fascia)...

    if u notice...all NEW homes these days come with colorbond fascias!

    sadly my timber fascia are like twice the height of a normal fascia....if i was to cover (meaning nailing the colorbond metal OVER my wooden timber) my fascia - it will cost a fair bit because of its size!...but with the colorbond thiongy it will last close to a lifetime wihtout having to worry abt the fascia ever again!!!!!!

    so would u guys spent that 2K more?...


    heres another qucikie!

    1) with the paint - as im not doing myself....is there like a way or method as to how we should go abt in coating the timber 2 reduce furture peelin?...

    roughly how long will the paint go for b4 i start to see signs of wear n tear?

  8. #7
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    Ryan,



    If the paints peeling you have a problem, sand back re undercoat and repaint. Read the instructions on the can, its amazing what's written on them I'm told. Paint peeling can just be that the top coat is not adhering to the coat beneath or reacting to it, maybe it has not been preped properly in the first place.

    John.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan23
    .but with the colorbond thiongy it will last close to a lifetime wihtout having to worry abt the fascia ever again!!!!!!

    so would u guys spent that 2K more?...
    At the risk of repeating myself...it won't last close to a lifetime. It will just cover up the problem until there is nothing left for the colorbond to be nailed to.

    Don't do it!

    P

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitingmidge
    At the risk of repeating myself...it won't last close to a lifetime. It will just cover up the problem until there is nothing left for the colorbond to be nailed to.

    Don't do it!

    P
    ermm..my fascia is still in excellent condition - only 2-3 corners are startin to rot! n will def have to prime/repair the rotten areas b4 covering them!...

    so...im back to hittin my head against wall.....i cant decide

    and the last thing i wanna do is choose the WRONG option!...

  11. #10
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    Ryan,
    the newer places with metal fascias use metal brackets to fix the fascia directly to the rafter tails, so it's a different story entirely to your proposal of covering the existing timber with metal. I've just had our place repainted and the 19 year old paint was breaking down on the fascias and barges. It should have been redone at 15 years. Mind you this is in the tropical sun which is very hard on paint. Paint that's properly applied to a well prepared surface will go ten years at least.

    To do it properly (ruthlessly) remove all the rotten areas using a chisel, anglegrinder with wire buff/arbortech blade, whatever works. Get it right back to sound timber. Paint it all. If neccesary glue in blocks to fill the bulk and then use car bog to fill the rest. Don't bridge the corner with the bog, place a release layer inbetween (piece of plastic or waxed paper will do). Fill the corner with a polyurethane sealant and paint following the manufacturer's instructions.

    Mick

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  12. #11
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    WOT MICK SEZ


    There's a two-man consensus going on here Ryan, and we don't stand to gain anything from the result (Like selling you $4k of Colorbond you don't need!)

    Cheers,

    P

  13. #12
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    Make that a three-men consensus.

    Although I did use them, I always assumed that it was a stop gap measure and that in due course it needed to be done properly.

    My facias were not rotting but had weathered ends and splits. It was a hot day ( unusual I know ) and it was completely sealed with silicone so there is no moisture trapped or capable of getting in. In anycase the back of the thingies is open so timber can still breathe.

    Ijust love these tempory stopgap measures that lasts and lasts and lasts.


    Peter.

  14. #13
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    are there any1 tradesman that u guys recommend that good/competitive in price?

    need to repair wooden fascia n repaint

    area : victoria, doncaster

    i think im pretty much set on just repairing the timber!

  15. #14
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    Blue 7 is a product available from hardware stores that is recommended to treat rotted timber prior to filling, priming etc. It will kill any residual rot that you may not be able to carve out. There should be internet info on it also.

    Steve

  16. #15
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    Default Wooden facia repairs

    An unusual repair that I discovered worked well after years of trying other conventional options:

    I discovered after a few years that most of the facia timber on our near new home, which was finger jointred treated pine, was inferior. The ends split & many portions of the face showed multiple cracks which opened up admitting moisture.
    At first I just sanded down, allowed to thoroughly dry out, & repainted, forcing lots of paint into the cracks to ensure they were sealed.
    A season passed & hello new cracks mostly in the same place, some sections OK some obviously unsound for whatever reason, no rotting however at this stage.
    I then decided in complete frustration to apply self adhesive 50mm wide aluminium tape over all areas where the cracks were appearing. This tape is high quality with outstanding adhesive which I had used before in a variety of applications typically on metal with no failures.
    Well a couple of years later no more cracks but the paint falls off the ali tape leaving bright shiny rectangular patches on my otherwise nicely painted facias. Remedied by applying a metal etch primer & repainting, ..... years later all's well.
    Yes you can just make ot the edges of the tape "patchwork" from ground level if you catch the light shining on the fasia paint in just the right way, but you have to look deliberately & I think only I ever look.
    BTW I also taped up the multi split facia ends being careful to overlap the tape so that no moisture could enter the sealed section, copious paint & again a good working apparently everlasting solution.
    Problem is now I can't exactly specify the tape I used, it was Scotch brand & there are many thicknesses & adhesive types available as a quick web search will show. Mine was originally bought from an automotive paint & finishings supply house.
    Hope my experience is of interest coming out of left field so to speak.
    Pete

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