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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
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    58
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    15

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    Thanks, some good ideas there.

    Now the glass is an interesting one - I'll look into it.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    58
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Here's some better photos.
    4.jpg1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Kilmore, near Melbourne, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    1,879

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    It'll need to be a suitable piece, safe if broken etc. - kitchens might not be the best place for glass bench tops.
    Steve
    Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
    Australia

    ....catchy phrase here

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

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    I think elecmuso has some interesting decisions to make around that table.

    Any surface used for food preparation or serving really needs to be "free" of potential contaminants and then sealed to control bacteria.

    The process of cleaning the surface will most likely destroy the character that Mrs elecmuso finds desirable.

    as I said, some interesting decisions.


    to clean the bench. I's probably start with a pressure wash, followed by a degreaser, followed by hot soapy water, followed by another low pressure wash.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    SE Melb
    Age
    64
    Posts
    1,278

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    From the picture, it looks like part of the darkening is due to natural aging of the timber (mould growth on the surface) and others more patchy area due to oil spillage penetrating into the timber. Sanding/planing will get rid of the darkening and paint that are on the surface, but it won't get rid oil stains. Any type of de-greaser may move the stain deeper into the timber rather lifting it so I'll suggest you try it with care. It is a difficult problem, oil stains. I have heard of a method but I have never tried it myself. You pour a small amount methylated spirit over a small area of stain and then raise a flame over it or if you want to be a bit safer, rub a thin film of methylated spirits over the affected area and set light to it with a match. Stand back for a few seconds then blow out the flame. The burning on the table top will suck up the oil from the stain and the oil will be burnt off in the process. For more stubborn stain, more than one treatment may be required and you might need to adjust the amount of alcohol on the affected area to adjust the temperature of the flame. Since most of the burning takes place just above the surface as the alcohol evaporates, charring of the timber is quite superficial. I can't remember whether I read it on this forum or some other forum. Anyway you could try it on a test piece I suppose. if I find any link to this method, I'll post it.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    application of a poultice works for removing stains from concrete and stone so would be worth a try.

    I've had success using bicarb soda poultice to remove stains from granite.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    58
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Guys I', well into this now, have degreased, removed the grime and some surface though I've managed to retain some of the character. Down to the last couple of sands.

    What I my options for finish, bearing in mind I don't have a lot of experience?

    Tung Oil?
    Danish Oil?
    Wax?
    Shellac?
    Two pack?
    Varnish?

    It doesn't seem to have a lot of colour in the 'raw' state.

    Cheers

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Warner
    Age
    30
    Posts
    27

    Default

    I use tung oil for a safe food station area. Bring out the grain ect as well in my opinion.

    Matti

    Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula
    Posts
    2,744

    Default

    For a kitchen type of table, I would consider a beeswax finish.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    58
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Cheers fellas.

    What grits should I be using? So far I have carefully used a 40 grit / belt sander. Obviously the belt sander is quick and I'll continue using it but what grits should I be using? Should I swap over to a finishing sander at some smaller grit?

    On the weekend I splashed some turps on it and that certainly brought out all the character. Presumably I would get the same with bees wax or tung oil?

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    58
    Posts
    15

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    Well it is finished and has taken up residence in our new kitchen - I'll post a photo tomorrow. Used a Danish oil finish. I'm very happy with it.


    All help much appreciated!

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    58
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Here you go...

    Bench_1.jpg

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    58
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Guys

    In the far background of the photo is a baltic pine floorboard dining table. I also recently resanded it, but have yet to seal it with something. Will Danish oil also work well on that, given it is a softer timber?

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    looks nice
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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