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Thread: Should I worry about 0.008"
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11th March 2018, 02:06 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Should I worry about 0.008"
Hi Guys,
Ive been setting up my new 10" saw from carbatec, and Ive measured the distance from the saw table track at the front of the blade, then rotate the blade to measure the same tooth at the rear using a digital dial guage. The difference is 0.008" should I worry about this? Should I correct it? What will it mean to my cut accuracy if I leave it? I should mention the generic instructions that come with the saw are BLOODY PATHETIC, Ive basically done all the final assembly myself. I think that Ive identified the mounting bolts to the saw blade mechanism to adjust the parallel....
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11th March 2018, 02:43 PM #2Taking a break
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So that's about 0.2mm. Which way is it out? Is the front closer to the track or the back?
If the back is closer, you should probably fix it or you'll get the back of the blade re-cutting your work when using jigs/fences in the track. If the front is closer it's less likely to make a big difference, as long as the fence is still parallel to the blade.
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11th March 2018, 02:50 PM #3
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11th March 2018, 02:51 PM #4
Make some cuts and check, no idea why you'd flip a blade backwards?
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11th March 2018, 03:05 PM #5rrich Guest
What does it measure in the other track? It should be -0.008
What you're concerned about is about a half of 1/64.
Assuming that the miter gauge tracks are truly parallel, I would align the trunnion or table top to be straight with the blade. If your miter gauge slots are not parallel, then I would align the blade to the left slot. This way you'll be able to make perfectly square cuts. The down side is that when you align the fence it is a bit more difficult to do off of the left slot.
Make sure that there is no run out (wobble) in the blade and / or arbor.
BTW - When aligning the fence it is best to have the back of the fence 0.001 to 0.002 wide or right (away) from the blade.
BTW2 - When aligning the trunnion or table top to the blade use new washers. It is best to use garage door hardware washers as they are likely hardened. The slightest distortion or burr in the washers will throw the alignment off.
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11th March 2018, 03:09 PM #6Taking a break
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11th March 2018, 09:12 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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The front should be running fractionally closer to the fence then the rear: It's called lead - Circular saws are supposed to have it.
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12th March 2018, 06:46 AM #8
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12th March 2018, 07:54 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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12th March 2018, 09:46 AM #10
If the entry side of your blade is closer to the fence then accuracy of your cut will not be effected when ripping. If the entry side is the larger distance then you will get a double cut as the wood passes through, once as it enters the blade and again a small cut as it exits. Not only will this give you a rough finish but also is more prone to kickback as you never want your blade to be cutting at the rear.
If you can get your blade closer to parallel with the mitre slots then you will be much happier in the future. If your blade is not close to parallel then one of the pieces is going to get the rough cut, either the piece you want or the offcut.
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12th March 2018, 11:24 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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If anything thats the most important discrepancy to worry about, as everything else will be used to reference off the track so I'd try get it as close as dead on as possible. eg when you make yourself a sled, or make adjustments to your fence it'll all reference off your track.
Have you also checked your arbor? and flanges? these can also have an impact on how "straight" your saw cuts.
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12th March 2018, 02:23 PM #12
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12th March 2018, 03:52 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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As John G said, it's the lead on the blade. Make sure its narrow at the front of the blade to the fence, not the rear. If so, all is well.
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12th March 2018, 06:35 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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12th March 2018, 07:13 PM #15
Didn't mean how to check them, i meant how does that have an effect on cut straightness?
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