Thread: Should I worry about 0.008"

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

Not quite sure if you're trolling...
If you're using a dial indicator and testing the straightness of your saw tracks using the OP's method if you have anything that is out of kilter it'll give you inaccurate readings.

Besides its just good practice to check everything is in good working order before turning the machine on as blade wobble will cause a bunch of other issues.

Are you referring to me being a troll??? Hope not... its a genuine question. This is my first Table Saw and Im trying to set it up properly. Are there any Carbatec Saw owners on here that can steer me in the right direction?... Cheers

no mate, was referring to the post above.

Did the top come attached to your saw when you got it? If it didnt the screws that you used to secure the top are the screws you loosen to adjust the discrepancy. Its a matter of loosen, give it a tap in the right direction check, and repeat till you get it dead on. Check again after you've re-tightened the bolts as tightening can sometimes cause it to move.

My comments above was in relation to Treecycles comment, as when you're trying to get a reference point you need to make sure your reference point is reliable. So its important to also check your blade to ensure its not warped, check your arbor for wobble, and check the inner and outer flanges to make sure they are flat. Its probably more important to check the inner flange as that's what'll cause your readings to potentially go out of wack. The outside flange/washer is easy to check as you just place in on a flat surface (ie table top) and check it sits flat.

You'll need a dial indicator and stand to make the adjustments, if you don't have one there are other ways of checking but won't be as accurate/easy to do. eg i'm sure you could do the five cut method but that'll be quite time consuming.

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

no mate, was referring to the post above.

Did the top come attached to your saw when you got it? If it didnt the screws that you used to secure the top are the screws you loosen to adjust the discrepancy. Its a matter of loosen, give it a tap in the right direction check, and repeat till you get it dead on. Check again after you've re-tightened the bolts as tightening can sometimes cause it to move.

My comments above was in relation to Treecycles comment, as when you're trying to get a reference point you need to make sure your reference point is reliable. So its important to also check your blade to ensure its not warped, check your arbor for wobble, and check the inner and outer flanges to make sure they are flat. Its probably more important to check the inner flange as that's what'll cause your readings to potentially go out of wack. The outside flange/washer is easy to check as you just place in on a flat surface (ie table top) and check it sits flat.

You'll need a dial indicator and stand to make the adjustments, if you don't have one there are other ways of checking but won't be as accurate/easy to do. eg i'm sure you could do the five cut method but that'll be quite time consuming.

Yeah the table top was attached to the cabinet when it was unboxed, I did put the extension sides on but they in no way affected the issue. I did check both mitre tracks either side of the saw blade and they both give the same result one negative one positive. I did however loosen these off to try and "twist" the table top but there is no travel in the bolt holes. I rang Carabatec to ask for advice, the guy I spoke to didnt know (??) but he promised to get another guy to call me back.... still waithing 4 hrs later.. I also emailed them yesterday... no reply as yet. The error means the distance between the saw blade and the fence gets less at the back to the blade, so I need to fix this before i cut anything... waiting on my sparky for a 15 amp power point anyway

By checking the front tooth, then rotating the blade 180 and checking at the same tooth, as the OP did, will cancel out most other problem areas, I believe, and show blade vs mitre slot variation.

You could have a look at this video and see if one of the saws matches yours closely for an explanation on how different types of saws are adjusted. This guy actually works at Carbatec.

Its a good topic, but not one for angry words

Here are a few articles which you'll find useful:

https://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/alignment.html
https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwor...-your-tablesaw
Aligning your tablesaw in two planes - FineWoodworking

Once set up it rarely needs doing again. I check mine yearly (for 7 years now) and it's only been out a little bit once when I whacked it with a massive log.

If you don't have a micrometer, you can use a stick and screw on the front/back tooth to get it very very close. This is very low tech and Im quite certain I did a writeup here on how to use this method.... (I'll see if I can find it).

The 45-deg setting is the most challenging. Mine has never been right. Perhaps time to give it another crack....

Regdop, post some photos!

If you find your Carbatec manual is useless or doesn't contain enough info. I find the Grizzly versions of the manual are much more detailed and better written.

So try to hunt for your table saw's manual on the Grizzly website it might give you the guidance you require.

Ps I've never received a call back from Carbatec so I wouldn't hold your breath

Here's a good link outlining the variations on table top mounts hopefully it helps.

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwor...-your-tablesaw

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Its a good topic, but not one for angry words

Regdop, post some photos!

Ill try and get some photos up before the weekend...cheers!

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

If you find your Carbatec manual is useless or doesn't contain enough info. I find the Grizzly versions of the manual are much more detailed and better written.

Even the cheapest Grizzly is way better than any Carbatec model, however I did look and came up zilch... cheers anyway

Regdop, its a frustrating experience assembling, setting up and then fine tuning a TS for the first time. A cabinet style TS with mitre tracks at least gives you some points of reference.

Try fine tuning the "panel saw" style sliding table saws like the Woodfast / record TS250 with no machined mitre tracks. Getting the top of the sliding table co-planar with the cast iron table, removing slop / play in the rollers supporting the sliding panel table is fun, then getting it running "parallel" to the blade with some lead is even more fun.

Now that is a lesson in chasing your tail if you follow the directions in the manual. The recommended process puts you into an endless loop of adjustments, hopefully one where iteration (# of cycles) will eventually solve the issue, unless you go the wrong way then its more cycles of adjustment. There is an easier way though ... as I quickly found out - it involved the judicious use of a knockometer - after loosening the sub-chasis mounting bolts.

I have a contractor saw with the trunnions bolted directly to the table top. When adjusting I make a mark on the back of the rear trunnion mounting face and the adjacent table top casting. I use a screw clamp to move the trunnion across the trunnion mounting area on the table. I find it much better than tapping because of the much greater control that can be exercised. It's the same as using an L-bracket trunnion adjuster as shown in the wood magazine article linked to by tonzeyd without having to buy or make one. The marks allow you to judge what is happening with a fair degree of accuracy. Trying to make any very small adjustment by tapping is a complete PITA, no wonder people just give up and decide 'that'll do'!

If you have the option of doing something similar with your cabinet saw it may be worth a go.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Regdop, its a frustrating experience assembling, setting up and then fine tuning a TS for the first time. A cabinet style TS with mitre tracks at least gives you some points of reference.

Try fine tuning the "panel saw" style sliding table saws like the Woodfast / record TS250 with no machined mitre tracks. Getting the top of the sliding table co-planar with the cast iron table, removing slop / play in the rollers supporting the sliding panel table is fun, then getting it running "parallel" to the blade with some lead is even more fun.

Now that is a lesson in chasing your tail if you follow the directions in the manual. The recommended process puts you into an endless loop of adjustments, hopefully one where iteration (# of cycles) will eventually solve the issue, unless you go the wrong way then its more cycles of adjustment. There is an easier way though ... as I quickly found out - it involved the judicious use of a knockometer - after loosening the sub-chasis mounting bolts.

Cheers for this advice!!!! IT really did come in useful, just knowing other people have been faced with this frustration gave me strength to continue and eventually SOLVE the issue...WooHoo!

Here's some photos as promised...

IMG_4621.jpgIMG_4624.jpgIMG_4626.jpg

The first photo is from the right hand side , the second from the left and the third again from the right but showing the only mountings of the saw assembly to the table top.. I have managed finally to square the saw blade to the mitre tracks…… The two rather Bronze looking blocks you can see at the top of the photo, hold the pivot point for the saw to swing to 45 degrees, and thats all I thought the did....They actually also have some forwards and backwards travel allowing the blade to be adjusted…I now have a saw balde perfectly parallel to both mitre tracks, and dead on 90 deg to the table top....WooHoo!!

From my limited knowledge and you tube videos this "trunion?" assembly is unlike most others? hence my confusion.. All good though now. I have nightshifts for the next four nights then I can concentrateon fitting my Incra fence!!.... Cheers everyone for your input!...Gary


During my attempted squaring of the saw I inadvertently made the error greater than first measured... In frustration I wrote to axminster in the UK because they have rebranded the exact same saw... read below my email and their response which I find utterly unprofessional and unbelievable!!!!(well within accepted tolerances??????)

Hi
I have purchased an Axminster AW10BSB2…lovely saw. Unfortunately I have a 0.060” difference in the saw blade tracking when measured using a dial gauge mounted in the mitre tracks. This error is mirrored in the opposing track, one being negative 0.060” and the other being polite 0.060” I have tried to correct it using the under table bolts in the four corners of the cabinet but this has not helped.. I have researched on line and in the user manual but can find no information on how to correct it. I have looked at the trunion assembly but to be honest I fail to see which adjustment I need to make to fix my error. Could you please assist me with this?
Kind regards
Gary Podger

Dear Mr Podger



The difference that you are stating in the accuracy on the blade, would be well within the expected manufacturing tolerances.



As there is no other adjustment other than the cradle support block on the underside of the table.


These could be filed to remove burrs etc, but I am not sure if the modification on the block will reduce the difference.



Kevin King
Specialist Sales Advisor

Axminster Tools & Machinery
Phone: 0800 371 822
Web: www.axminster.co.uk

Sadly "manufacturing tolerances" and "acceptable tolerances" are two different concepts. This is also the reason why brands like Sawstop/powermatic can charge the amounts they do for their table saws. This is also the tradeoff we face for the the price we paid for our saws.

Having said that wood can move more than the discrepancy you've experienced, so I wouldn't fret about it too much especially since you've now resolved the issue.