Thread: the right way, the wrong way and "the way i tell you"

Backchat? No, he was probably very quietly and succinctly pointing our the flaw in your system. Sounds like a keeper to me.

flowboy

hes a keeper alright, when a guy works hard and churns out the work day on day backchat is never ever a problem

rick being rick said no more than it was loose framing, he didnt elaborate

my question remains, what would an auzzie chippe allow AND why

my thought was that maybe hes used to prehung doors on thinner linings

i didnt ask rick at the time why he made his comment

i'll learn from anyone if its quicker or easier, its only tonight that i thought of asking the question in an auzzie forum

Here's a bit of common sense for you..... Ask Rick?

Aussie's will always give you back-chat. It's the way we are and we're so good at it.

i didnt ask for backchat just a friggin answer

i thought with the time difference i might get the answer BEFORE i asked the question

16mm seems pretty excessive to me as an allowance for discrepancies in the studs. I might leave 10mm if I were framing in green hardwood but for pine studs I generally only allow 5mm at the most. I'll try to get the hinge jamb hard against the stud, no packing if possible. Don't know what your framing is like over there but I wouldn't want to work with anything that required 16mm of packing to get it right. If the studs were that bad I reckon I'd try a stud on edge against the back of the jamb studs to pull it straight. (After buzzing it down to a snapped chalk line)

Mick

thanks for the thoughts and the reasoning behind them journeyman

Let Rick do one his way and observe? As you say, we can always learn.

i talked our fire regs through with rick, the lining/stud gap is a void, it has to be filled with intumescent foam

joint conclusion 90mm over door size, 10mm nominal gaps to ensure the foam makers cant deny legal responsibility, saying the voids were improperly filled

it saves a third on foam as well............ which is nice

dd,
interesting about the intumescent foam. I presume this is in a commercial application, or is this the norm in your average bungalow too? All doorways or just between tenancies?

Mick

journeyman, as short an answer as possible, this is a private hospital

the building regs and or fire regs require fire doors in multiple occupancy or public buildings, bathrooms tend to be an exeption. certain doors in extentions to private dwellings require fire doors, some local bylaws require fire doors to certain doors in private dwellings

the noise abatement section of the regs, paticularly in multiple occupancy / semi detached dwellings, guarantee a stud wall with a door/fire door in it WILL fail without foaming this void (intumescent or not)

the regs are policed by low wage scale officers, some have VERY individual takes on the regs, sometimes varying according to the day of the week or the phase of the moon

consequently sensible builders install intumescent foam

I reckon your framing is loose.

P

Wot Mick sez. To the millimetre!

I'm guessing you need a certain gap to ensure that you get the foam all the way through the join, but I'd be cutting it as fine as I could to reduce the volume of foam to a bare minimum.

If you dropped your "safety" margin by even a third, that's 30% less foam you are going to use on the job, and I'm guessing that'd more than cover any additional dicking round?

Timber stud fire/sound rated construction isn't big here yet, so be aware the level of expertise among chippies isn't that high!

Cheers,

P