Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default New acquisition: Jap style HA smoother

    Got this from Lee Valley.

    Thought it would be a Muji but no, it's from Shun-Gee LG.

    Finish is good; good heft; blade looks to be HSS. Took some nice fine shavings off hardwood out of the box.

    Sole is a bit high at toe and heel so lapping is in order.

    btw, where do you tap with the mallet to raise, and where to lower, the cutter?

    I'm finding it odd to pull it. Is this a necessity?
    Cheers, Ern

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Gorokan Central Coast NSW
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    Tap at toe to lower, heel to raise. The secret is "Tap Gently".

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    Ta Termite.

    And do you tap the wedge in too?
    Cheers, Ern

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Nicholls ACT
    Posts
    728

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    Got this from Lee Valley.

    Thought it would be a Muji but no, it's from Shun-Gee LG.

    Finish is good; good heft; blade looks to be HSS. Took some nice fine shavings off hardwood out of the box.

    Sole is a bit high at toe and heel so lapping is in order.

    btw, where do you tap with the mallet to raise, and where to lower, the cutter?

    I'm finding it odd to pull it. Is this a necessity?
    I understand japanese planes are designed with a three point contact - toe, mouth and heel. They should not be lapped totally flat. I guess it would not hurt but it may not be a flaw.
    I never make mistakes, I thought I did once but I was mistaken

    Top 10 reasons I procrastinate
    1......

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Gorokan Central Coast NSW
    Age
    79
    Posts
    2,765

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    Ta Termite.

    And do you tap the wedge in too?
    Not during depth adjustment, only when you first insert the blade.
    Best way is to have a dead flat bit of hardwood, put the plane on it and insert the blade and wedge, hold the blade edge flush on the hardwood and seat the wedge, then do your adjusting.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    Goodo. Thanks.
    Cheers, Ern

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Joseph, OR
    Age
    77
    Posts
    19

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pusser View Post
    I understand japanese planes are designed with a three point contact - toe, mouth and heel. They should not be lapped totally flat. I guess it would not hurt but it may not be a flaw.
    Actually if it is a finish plane it only contacts at two points, the front and the mouth.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    And the q. about pulling?

    I'm sure I could get used to it with practice but ...
    Cheers, Ern

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    As far as I know, all planes are pushed or pulled depending on the user. Even my Stanley types are pulled if the grain demands it, so I'd say do whatever you are happy with.

    (accepting that East is pull and West is push, it is not a 'rule'.)

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    144

    Default

    As Groggy says, you can push or pull. I do both with my Japanese planes. When working on my workmate, pulling is much better when you are taking a lot of wood off. You can brace your foot against the workmate and pull and be fairly stable. Pushing on a workmate is a pain in the back, literally.

    Give pulling a go and I think you will become quite comfortable with it. But you can push.

    Rob

  12. #11
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Magill, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    1,537

    Default

    The story is that pulling gives you more control. I have a lot of Japanese planes and I don't think pulling makes much difference. What I do think is that because they worked using a beam as a workbench and also often just worked on the floor without using vices that is they held it with their feet, you can understand they had much more control pulling.

    Tune the sole so you get just a tiny amount of clearance through the guts of the sole and keep just the toe and front of the mouth in contact.

    Studley
    Aussie Hardwood Number One

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    12,746

    Default

    Thanks guys.
    Cheers, Ern

Similar Threads

  1. Is a No. 4-1/2 Smoother better than a No. 4?
    By Mirboo in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 7th January 2006, 10:10 PM
  2. broke my smoother
    By WRB in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 28th September 2005, 09:13 PM
  3. The 4 1/2 Heavy Smoother is out
    By Ben Knebel in forum ANNOUNCEMENTS
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 9th September 2005, 09:47 AM
  4. The best little smoother in town
    By derekcohen in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 18th March 2005, 07:12 PM
  5. New Toy - Lv La Smoother
    By Termite in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 21st February 2005, 04:52 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •