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Thread: Gennou - Handle

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilS View Post
    I made myself a little square wooden 'mallet' for the same reason; flat at one end for the blade or chip breaker and domed at the other end for tapping the body of the plane to adjusting the blade position. The head is made of a hard dense wood (blue gum, I think) that gives it some weight. Here it is (on left) in photo taken for another purpose. It works well.
    Nice. About 11-12 years ago I found Tools for Working Wood ( Tools for Working Wood: Welcome )and their Museum of Woodworking Tools ( Museum of Woodworking Tools - Lobby ) section. There is a Tools of Vietnam subsection, where I found this: MalletVietNam.jpg. I was so taken with both the mallet and chisel that I made a copy of the mallet to see how it worked (great, btw) and started paying a lot of attention to bachi nomi (also great). I typically use this mallet for plane adjusting and often chiseling (I also use the HNT Desert Ironwood mallet for this stuff, depending on which is closer to hand). I've really got to start selling the duplicate stuff. (:

    Pam

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  3. #47
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    Default Old meets new

    Quote Originally Posted by Schtoo View Post
    I could say almost the exact same thing, but it'd be rather embarrassing...

    Must find that hammer head I bought myself a few months ago and look at making a handle for it. I've become somewhat inspired with this thread.

    The time to actually make a hammer handle is another thing entirely however...

    Stu.

    Stu
    Have you tried those little drinking stands under the tracks just below Ueno station. The food is plentiful, the beer is cheaper than most and the noise from the trains above blend the whole thing into a sea of fun. Everyone is happy.

    Paul
    These are two hammers I use in my shop. The yellow is 200 gram Proto #1383 used by car repair guys as a mallet. I shaped one side of the head for tapping in the sub blades without scaring either the sub or the main blade, but kept the other end of the head full round for driving in the main blade into the dai.

    My large genno is for dai making and it is 1150 grams, about 2 1/2 pounds, minus the madrone handle, and comes with a hardened laminated steel face and a soft iron body. It is wedged with a purposefully large wedge so that as the head ineveitably loosens with use, the hard oak wedge can and will take a repeated beating back into place. A genno head of this size does not lend itself well to being fitted wedgeless, so the wedge in this case is part of the function.

    In the photos downunder, Inomoto-san used a double wedge system in his genno, but even though I have asked him why he does, questions like mine are meaningless and the answers are silent I guess because an explination would circumvent the expreience of learning on my own.

    Alx







  4. #48
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    And there is this info on quince handles for gennou by So.

    Neil

  5. #49
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    Neil

    An interesting link. While I can appreciate the practicality of leaving bark on the handle I find it conflicts with the hammer head aesthetics. I make it look more like a bodger's tool, which it is not.

    I was also interested to see the handle was made from a small (complete) branch. As that flys in the face of timber milling practice I do wonder at the longevity factor. Perhaps others can testify to whether this is likely to stand the test of time.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  6. #50
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    For reference, that link to So takes the thread full circle. So was the one who sold me the genno head mentioned in the original post, and who advised me on building the handle.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #51
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    Can't speak with any confidence about gennou handles, but I can say that chouna (the Japanese adze) is definitely made from a whole branch that has been grown especially for the required shape. In my experience, the chouna handle gets a more rigorous workout than any hammer handle, so that might be the answer. And, the tradition is to leave the bark on for the grip.

    See handles in Robin Wood's blog here.

    If you are unable to find a branch of just the right shape you can buy one, if in stock, here.

    Neil

  8. #52
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    Neil very interesting.

    Clearly the handles have to be grown deliberately shaped.

    Loved this table for the hammered finish.

    Chouna made table top.jpg

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  9. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    For reference, that link to So takes the thread full circle. So was the one who sold me the genno head mentioned in the original post, and who advised me on building the handle.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    The Columbus effect ? I still like your hammered hammer.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #54
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    I'm having a very surreal experience reading this thread... So's post might have been taken in my workshop. Many years ago I was given as a gift a couple of pieces of full-branch gumi, and a quince-branch handled gennou that looks exactly like So's. For all I know, it was made by So.

    The gift-giver told me these full-branch (-twig?) handles were the most durable there were. And they've certainly held up for me, though I'm sure many of you use hammers far more than I do. Hammering is generally a sign of a really poor refinisher. (I use it mostly for adjusting plane blades and countersinking nails... though this thread convinces me of what I've always felt -- that it's better to use a wooden mallet -- or one for automotive or shell-shucking purposes, both of which I have -- for blade adjustment.)

  11. #55
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    So Bushmiller what do you think of the quality of the fukashima gennou? I too have entertained the idea of getting one of the very same but for some reason never have. Am I right to just keep letting this one go on by or is it a quality(enough) tool?

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by planebill View Post
    So Bushmiller what do you think of the quality of the fukashima gennou? I too have entertained the idea of getting one of the very same but for some reason never have. Am I right to just keep letting this one go on by or is it a quality(enough) tool?
    planebill

    Welcome to the forums, but you have put me straight on the spot in that I am hardly qualified to give an objective opinion on the Fukushima gennou. I have many hammers but only three gennous. I can subjectively compare it to the western hammers and say that I use the gennous almost exclusively at the moment and in that regard I can recommend the 750g Fukushima.

    Just be aware that he is almost out of stock as you will see on this link:

    Japanese Fukushima Hand Forged OCT Gennou Hammer Chisel | eBay

    Only a single 1.1Kg hammer remains available, although he has a few more available in the funate style.

    I cannot compare these gennous to other gennous.

    I would suggest you have a look at this

    Japan Tool

    and also this site as Stu (Forum member Schtoo) gives comprehensive explanations of the tools he sells ( and to some extent those he does not sell too)

    Tools from Japan, Japanese woodworking tools direct from Japan.

    I think the aesthetics of the Japanese hammer are a big component of their appeal, but finally they have to work too. I love them. I particularly love the Fukushima as it also has my personalised stamp on it.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #57
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    Hi Paul

    What are you using a 750 gm gennou head to do? That is extra heavy. The one I use for dovetailing and general chisel work is 375 gm. I do have a 450 gm head as well, and I would consider that heavy enough for morticing.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #58
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    Derek

    I have used it instead of my largest claw hammers and as a mini club ("lump" for our American cousins) hammer at times but so far not really for woodworking. My other two gennous are small at 225g and 115g. You have spotted the gap in that I need a hammer in between.

    Having said that I prefer to use a wooden mallet for striking chisels.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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