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  1. #271
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    Sounds like quite a tool Neil.

    Post a pic in the axe thread? Axe talk
    Cheers, Ern

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  3. #272
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    Oct 2010
    Location
    Broome, WA
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    Hi all,

    Just wanted to show of the latest addition to the kitchen. I recently celebrated a 'significant birthday' and decided to purchase a new knife for myself. It's a 270mm Yoshihiro White Steel Kasumi Yanagiba with ho wood handle and saya:

    DSC_0061.jpg

    I've been keen to get a single bevel Japanese knife for a while and have long been weighing up between a deba or a yanagiba. Our current set of knives (Japanese and Western) cover most tasks in the kitchen but I ran into difficulties when preparing sashimi. None of our knives were long enough for the single slice required when preparing sashimi - hence the decision to go with a yanagiba. I just couldn't see where I would require deba over what we already have. I settled on this particular knife as it had good reviews online as a quality entry level single bevel knife. I'll have to give it a quick final sharpen prior to its first use, but other than that it feels very nice in the hand.

    However, the handle and saya is unfinished Ho wood and I would like to give it some protection. I know that traditionally Japanese knife handles are left unfinished but I would like to add some protection against stains - especially those that can happen during sharpening. Any ideas for products or mixes? I have some U-beaut food safe mineral oil for use on chopping boards and the like. Would that do?

    I'm having trouble waiting to use it but I know I regret it if I get the handle stained with slurry during its first sharpen!

    Cheers,
    Justin

  4. #273
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    Nice score Justin. Should be a pleasure to use.

    For the best protection of the handle that chopping board oil wouldn't be my first choice. Something with more body would be the go like a Danish oil - enough coats for the build-up to be visible on the surface.
    Cheers, Ern

  5. #274
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    Mar 2010
    Location
    Sydney
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    103

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    I have used linseed oil on many handles and think it is the best. It doesn't discolour over time as other oil finishes do. I have knives finished in this was which have been used steadily for the past 15 years and still look great. I got the method from Bo Bergman in his book on making Swedish knives. The method uses boiled linseed oil which has some nasties in it but I think it gets stabilized quite well.

    Method:

    1. Mix equal parts boiled linseed oil and gum turpentine and soak the handle in it for a few days. I use a narrow container so it doesn't take much to fill to the height of the handle. A glass jar is ideal. Put the knife in so the handle is covered and put some cling wrap around the blade sticking out of the jar to seal the mixture from the atmosphere.

    2. After a few days, take it out, lightly wipe the oil off and let the handle dry for a week.

    3. After drying, the oil will have hardened but also will have sunk back below the surface. Apply another coat of the mixture and work it in well so it completely fills the pores. Put aside and let dry for another week.

    4. Buff with a stiff bristle brush. I use a scrubbing brush.

    The finish will continue to improve as you use it.

    Gadge

  6. #275
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    Sydney
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    Regarding the linseed oil finish. I should have said something about preparing the handle before applying the finish. You probably already know this but I'll describe it anyway.

    After the handle is shaped and ready to apply the oil finish, I wet a sponge or microfiber cloth and lightly ring it out so there is not a lot of water left. Wet the handle all over with the cloth and put aside until it dries. It doesn't take very long at all provided the wood was not saturated. The wood fibers will stand up after wetting. Use fine but sharp sand paper and lightly sand the fibers off. Repeat the process another two times. The third time should see virtually not fibers raised. The handle is now ready for the oil finish.

    Gadge

  7. #276
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    Oct 2010
    Location
    Broome, WA
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    91

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    Thanks Ern and Gadge.

    I reckon I'll give the boiled linseed oil and gum turpentine recipe a go.

  8. #277
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    Sydney
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    Let us know how it goes.

    Gadge

  9. #278
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    Apr 2007
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    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    Sounds like quite a tool Neil.

    Post a pic in the axe thread? Axe talk
    OK, see here.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  10. #279
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    Default Ikea Briljera 9cm paring knife - comments

    This is a western design with a Damascus VG10 blade.

    It costs $20 and comes very sharp with a plastic tip protector.

    The bevels are short and the steel is fairly soft.

    A gap between the bolster and handle was bridged with filler at the factory.

    I've used it daily on fruit and veg for about a month and it now needs a sharpen.

    It's very good value and an easy way for newbies to dip their toe in the pond of special steels.

    Ikea make larger knives in this line but they all have large bellies that limit their usefulness. I'm half tempted to get one and do a major reshape to straighten out the edge.

    BRILJERA Paring knife - IKEA
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers, Ern

  11. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post

    It's very good value and an easy way for newbies to dip their toe in the pond of special steels.

    BRILJERA Paring knife - IKEA
    Good find, Ern.

    Definitely a very economical entry point for V10, which is a more forgiving than many other Japanese knife steels.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  12. #281
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    Aug 2016
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    Just noticed this thread, I've collected/used Japanese knives for a long time, it's very addictive and interesting. Here is a pic of most of what I still have, I sold off a few when I got into woodwork to fund some my tool purchases.
    The 9 knives on the right of the pic are Shigefusa brand, a very highly regarded brand, I used to have a Mizuno honyaki gyuto and a couple of Katos but they have been sold.

    IMG_20200320_145503.jpg

  13. #282
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    A year ago I acquired a Yoshihiro Blue Steel Kurouchi 5" petty knife and saya.

    Rc 64, octagonal Shitan (rosewood) handle. The core and the cladding are both Blue Steel.

    It's a bit of a thoroughbred. Lovely in the hand. The edge lasts a long time but the steel is quick to discolour.
    The recessed heel isn't the best if you like a pinch grip.

    To refresh the edge I just work the secondary bevel but now it's coming up for a full sharpen.

    The browser won't let me upload photos to this forum anymore, either as inserted images or attachments, so see this URL for an image:
    Yoshihiro High Carbon Blue Steel #1 Masashi Kurouchi Series Petty Utility Knife | eBay
    Cheers, Ern

  14. #283
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    Apr 2007
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    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by barramonday View Post
    The 9 knives on the right of the pic are Shigefusa brand, a very highly regarded brand...
    IMG_20200320_145503.jpg
    The one who dies with the most Shigefusa wins!!!

    I also prefer the Sanji Niigata blacksmiths and at least one of my handforged J-knives is made with Uddeholms steel from Sweden, but that is as close as I'm likely to get to a Shigefusa... : -(
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  15. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    A year ago I acquired a Yoshihiro Blue Steel Kurouchi 5" petty knife and saya.

    Rc 64, octagonal Shitan (rosewood) handle. The core and the cladding are both Blue Steel.
    Nice looking knife there, Ern.

    I'm partial to Blue steel myself. Not to say that White steel is inferior, it just has to be very well made to match Blue in its performance.

    Not seen a knife with Blue cladding before! Typically they are iron or SS clad.

    The only J-knife that I have added to my knife rack in long time is a Hiragatake wide petty, from Sanjo in Aogami #2, SS clad.
    I had a standard petty from Shinichi Wantanabe (also from Sanjo in Aogami with SS cladding) that I got for my wife, but she stopped using it. I found that when I started using it that the standard petty blade didn't lift enough above the cutting board to avoid dragging my fingers along the board. Not such an issue with my wife's smaller fingers. Also not an issue for paring, handheld peeling and dicing on a thick chopping board with just the blade over the board.

    Anyway, Shinichi doesn't make a stock wide petty, so I decided to get the Hiragatake wide to see if that suited me better. I also liked the low angle and wide bevel, perfect for adding a secondary micro bevel, which I prefer to do. So far, I'm finding it quite good. Here are the Wantanabe (on left) and Hiragatake side-by-side. I'll get around to reworking the primary bevel on the Hiragatake to remove those belt sander grinding marks one of these days...

    While on J-knives, I have also been rehabbing the handle on a knife owned by one of my sons. It's a hybrid... Oz made handle added to J-blade. The handle is a banksia pod encased in resin. All OK until someone put it into the dishwasher when the hosts weren't in the kitchen!

    Handles has been reset in resin again, reshaped and fitted back on the blade. Here it is...

    It's from Koi Knives here in Adelaide. I won't comment on it as it was a gift from one of the makers, a long term friend of my son's, and therefore not appropriate for me to do so.

    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  16. #285
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    The Watanabe gyuto that you recommended to me Neil is still providing sterling service.

    As an aside, I'm in a rented house that has couple of Victorinox knives with moulded plastic handles, and the steel in those is plenty hard and the blades quite thin. Pretty good value.

    There's a new sharpener in the kit, a kind of mounted Lansky. It's a knock-off of a popular US jig and there's fine replacement stones and plates available.
    Server Busy
    Cheers, Ern

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