Thread: BA Falcon Radiator Change

Personally, I would try a bottle of radiator/ head gasket stop leak gunk first up. I ended up with a heater core leak in Pug 306 about 6 years ago. Ordered a heater core from England intending to replace it, but put a bottle of the head stop leak gunk (Can't remember the brand but it was green colour with metal flakes in it, abt $25) and it was completely sealed within 15km on the way to work next morning and still is now. No sign of overheating suggesting other channels got blocked, heater works fine so it didn't just plug the heater up and isolate it.

A/C needs to be degassed leak tested and regassed if you have to disturb the lines and pull the rad and condensor together, but they are two seperate elements and should be able to be removed independently. Transmission oil lines shouldn't be an issue, you can disconnect if you need to, but you will loose the fluid contained in the heat exchanger in the rad, plus a small amount of dribble from the lines. The transmission sump is generally well below the cooler lines at the rad , oil is pumped through the cooler when the engine is running. However you need to be prepared to catch spillage and to top up transmission when finished.

As I said, I would try a gunk fix first unless you know the rad is already way below par on cooling efficiency.

Don.t !!!!! put that stop leak stuff within 10m of your radiator or your engine, you should be able to remove radiator with out disconnecting the air con condenser it is fiddly but can be done,so long as trans is not a six speed it would be just a top up when reassembled, if disconnected the air con condenser has to be done by a licensed operator no exceptions I don't know what you mean by "real coolant" all coolant is a concentrate diluted with water

I thought about that, but the pressure and volume of the leak makes me think it would be a waste of time.
Plus when I work, I am on call at short notice. I won't risk $400 a day and a reputation of being unreliable because of the car.
I'll fix this properly

At 10yrs+ old BA would be due for a radiator at least if a new one is fitted you wont have to worry about the dreaded milkshake in the tranny , replace the waterpump, thermostat and hoses if they are the same age as preventative maintenance. Jump on the Ford Forum and asked those guys if the would recommend a aftermarket brand there might be a cheaper radiator with the same quality as genuine.

I get what you're saying Whitey but this is going to be radiator only.
As much as I would love to replace everything else I just don't have the funds right now - I live in a small town, my longest trip is only 15k's so I can take a chance.

Originally Posted by smidsy

I get what you're saying Whitey but this is going to be radiator only.
As much as I would love to replace everything else I just don't have the funds right now - I live in a small town, my longest trip is only 15k's so I can take a chance.

you could always keep a pushy in the boot for insurance

I don't get the aversion to using concentrate - anything else you use is going to consist of a large % of water...why pay to have it transported from a factory somewhere?

I'd go the radiator place myself, likely to be quicker and cheaper. The coast is a big place, so can't advise any further...plus it has been some time since I've lived there. No idea who's doing what anymore.

Oh, one last thought...

That hole looks a bit too serious for anything like bars leaks or anything like that. But perhaps if you can clean around it and wire brush any loose paint away some plastibond, kneadit, or something similar might *patch* it enough to keep you going while you wait.

And I realise by the dates you may have already dealt with this...

Got it fixed guys, $520 at the local radiator place.
He only charged about $160 for labour and with no car it would have cost me $40 in cab fare to go get the new radiator and coolant so worth the money.
Thanks for the advice guys, have a great christmas - may the fat old fart in red bring you what you desire.