Thread: Sharpening Get Together (GTG), March 13th, 2016

Ok Ray, I'll be very very very specific - just for you.

1. I have two Irwin chisels, 3/4" and 1" which will be hollow ground on the day (they are currently flat bevel with a microbevel).
2. The backs of these chisels are already flat and polished
3. The two chisels will be mounted in whatever jig or not that the operators require
4. The waterstones and FAGCIBs & paste are packed away, waterstones are still dry, not presoaked, wet, damp, spat on, or indeed cried over.
5. THIS IS WHEN THE CLOCK STARTS!
6. Kit is unpacked and operators HONE the chisels in their normal regime
7. When they are satisfied that the edges are honed to user sharpness, they then pack away their respective kits, and clean up the work surface
8. THEN THE CLOCK STOPS!

Sharpness of edges is then compared by a 3rd party. They can choose whatever way they like to see how sharp the chisel is - finger feel the edge, shave their arm, pare some end grain, cut a notch - whatever. Maybe all 4.

So, still continuing to be quite specific, the criteria for judging the winner is how well the chisel is honed (therefore cuts) verses how long it took to hone it from start to finish (kit packed away to kit packed away).

I will be using pastes of 1200, 3000, 8000, 14000. Depending on the coarsness (or not) of the hollow grind I may start with a 400 diamond plate to establish the microbevel, and in that case I would assume that the waterstone operator would start with a similar grit. However, the WS operator can use whatever stones they want but going no finer than ~14k. I may finish with a 10k Shapton Pro, but the only real reason for this is to get a polish as the paste leaves a cloudy finish on steel - cosmetic only.

I really do hope that is clear and specific enough.

Can i ask a question FF

Just give me a day or two to think of one 😉

I may have to resort to off topic

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Drill sharpening???

I'd love someone to know how to sharpen these little suckers:





Personally I don't think it can be done without a T&C grinder and some pretty specific jigs = the geometry looks a bit complex for diamond files. I do, however, suspect that a Dremel is about to be suggested......

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

I'd love someone to know how to sharpen these little suckers:





Personally I don't think it can be done without a T&C grinder and some pretty specific jigs = the geometry looks a bit complex for diamond files. I do, however, suspect that a Dremel is about to be suggested......

I did mention elsewhere a few days ago (I can't recall where) about sharpening brad points or more correctly a TAFE teacher told me how he does it. He saw mine laying on the bench and as we were discussing sharpening drills at the time he told me how he sharpened brad points. He uses one of those very thin cut off wheels that are used in angle grinders, I have never done it myself but it sort of makes sense as long as the wheel does not shatter.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Ok Ray, I'll be very very very specific - just for you.

1. I have two Irwin chisels, 3/4" and 1" which will be hollow ground on the day (they are currently flat bevel with a microbevel).
2. The backs of these chisels are already flat and polished
3. The two chisels will be mounted in whatever jig or not that the operators require
4. The waterstones and FAGCIBs & paste are packed away, waterstones are still dry, not presoaked, wet, damp, spat on, or indeed cried over.
5. THIS IS WHEN THE CLOCK STARTS!
6. Kit is unpacked and operators HONE the chisels in their normal regime
7. When they are satisfied that the edges are honed to user sharpness, they then pack away their respective kits, and clean up the work surface
8. THEN THE CLOCK STOPS!

Sharpness of edges is then compared by a 3rd party. They can choose whatever way they like to see how sharp the chisel is - finger feel the edge, shave their arm, pare some end grain, cut a notch - whatever. Maybe all 4.

So, still continuing to be quite specific, the criteria for judging the winner is how well the chisel is honed (therefore cuts) verses how long it took to hone it from start to finish (kit packed away to kit packed away).

I will be using pastes of 1200, 3000, 8000, 14000. Depending on the coarsness (or not) of the hollow grind I may start with a 400 diamond plate to establish the microbevel, and in that case I would assume that the waterstone operator would start with a similar grit. However, the WS operator can use whatever stones they want but going no finer than ~14k. I may finish with a 10k Shapton Pro, but the only real reason for this is to get a polish as the paste leaves a cloudy finish on steel - cosmetic only.

I really do hope that is clear and specific enough.

Now that sounds like a strapping idea Brett all laid out ground rules.
I wish I could step up and I am serious but as my hand control just won't allow it at speed it not going to happen.

I used to love watching my old man on weekends going through the process for the week ahead right down to yes leather strapping blades. Same with FiL with his work knives never needed a gun

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Drill sharpening???

Are we covering that as well? Id live to see a few options there. Does anyone have the tormek jig? Dirk is bringing a drill dr

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Lecture by Prof Flett

Chris a bit like this

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Ok Ray, I'll be very very very specific - just for you.

1. I have two Irwin chisels, 3/4" and 1" which will be hollow ground on the day (they are currently flat bevel with a microbevel).
2. The backs of these chisels are already flat and polished
3. The two chisels will be mounted in whatever jig or not that the operators require
4. The waterstones and FAGCIBs & paste are packed away, waterstones are still dry, not presoaked, wet, damp, spat on, or indeed cried over.
5. THIS IS WHEN THE CLOCK STARTS!
6. Kit is unpacked and operators HONE the chisels in their normal regime
7. When they are satisfied that the edges are honed to user sharpness, they then pack away their respective kits, and clean up the work surface
8. THEN THE CLOCK STOPS!

Sharpness of edges is then compared by a 3rd party. They can choose whatever way they like to see how sharp the chisel is - finger feel the edge, shave their arm, pare some end grain, cut a notch - whatever. Maybe all 4.

So, still continuing to be quite specific, the criteria for judging the winner is how well the chisel is honed (therefore cuts) verses how long it took to hone it from start to finish (kit packed away to kit packed away).

I will be using pastes of 1200, 3000, 8000, 14000. Depending on the coarsness (or not) of the hollow grind I may start with a 400 diamond plate to establish the microbevel, and in that case I would assume that the waterstone operator would start with a similar grit. However, the WS operator can use whatever stones they want but going no finer than ~14k. I may finish with a 10k Shapton Pro, but the only real reason for this is to get a polish as the paste leaves a cloudy finish on steel - cosmetic only.

I really do hope that is clear and specific enough.

nice and very specific, but ...

If I were able to be there, I'd add a diamond plate / ceramic stone set to the comparison.

as for the water stone option -- if the rule is no pre-soaking, then if I were using the stones I'd have to concede you the win before I even started. My medium WS (800 grit) is supposed to be stored under water.
Your competition specification appears to be set for Shapton stones.

and because it's about speed to a defined performance standard -- paring end grain pine (though Western Red Cedar might be even better) -- the sharpener should be allowed to stop at what ever grit they desire. Too soon and they will crumble the pine, too long and they will be beaten by their opponent

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Chris a bit like this

I had forgotten that video, I didn't really get into discussing the finer points of how to do it as it was about 45 degrees in the shed and the AC in the house was calling. I have some very thin diamond wheels here and if I remember I will bring them with me, they should do it ok.

Originally Posted by ian

nice and very specific, but ...

If I were able to be there, I'd add a diamond plate / ceramic stone set to the comparison.

as for the water stone option -- if the rule is no pre-soaking, then if I were using the stones I'd have to concede you the win before I even started. My medium WS (800 grit) is supposed to be stored under water.
Your competition specification appears to be set for Shapton stones.

and because it's about speed to a defined performance standard -- paring end grain pine (though Western Red Cedar might be even better) -- the sharpener should be allowed to stop at what ever grit they desire. Too soon and they will crumble the pine, too long and they will be beaten by their opponent

Yeah, kinda right there Ian. If the challenger is using soak stones I'll roll a cigarette at the start gong, maybe have a beer (prolly could go down to Picton for one).

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Drill sharpening???

Are we covering that as well? Id live to see a few options there. Does anyone have the tormek jig? Dirk is bringing a drill dr

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

yep, l can demo the the Tormek jig and have bought a couple of old BIG drills so everyone can see what's going on. Ive also found my 43 year old engineering thesis on drill points ...... if anyone's having trouble sleeping?

Originally Posted by fletty

yep, l can demo the the Tormek jig and have bought a couple of old BIG drills so everyone can see what's going on. Ive also found my 43 year old engineering thesis on drill points ...... if anyone's having trouble sleeping?

One of the few Torment jigs, I don't have . . .

Any interest in the Thicknesser/Jointer blade jig?

What about Router Bit sharpening? Anyone experienced at that? I'll be bringing my diamond paddles and diamond files (made in Israel of all places).

A while ago I conceived an idea for sharpening countersinks which I am yet to try, so maybe give it a burst on the day. The idea is to bore a countersink hole big enough into some really hard wood (say Spotty), put some diamond paste in it and then run the countersink (in a drill) in reverse. Actually, I might even have a go at it now. I have a feeling that I'll need some coarser paste than 1200, so if anyone has some 600 or less perhaps bring it along?

As far as I can tell it shouldn't reduce the cone shape of the C/S too much but I guess conventional wisdom is to sharpen the flats of the flutes.

Interesting. It did indeed make the leading edge sharper to touch, and reduced the fur on the rim of the hole and introduced that nice shearing sound as it cut. Could be worth pursuing.