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  1. #1
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    Default Norway - An idiosyncratic country.

    I have just returned from a month in Norway visiting our son and his partner and their eight-month-old baby girl. The main reason for visiting them was to see the first and very overdue grandchild. However, we did do a few other things while there and took in the various idiosyncrasies. This is of course a little tongue in cheek bearing in mind the extremes in Australia. Norway is at the other extreme: the cold extreme.

    We stayed primarily in Tromsø (pronounced Tromser, with not much emphasis on the last sylable). Tromsø is about 350Km above the artic circle, but because of the maritime location and the relatively warm gulf stream circulating from the equator, it is not quite as cold as you might expect. It rarely dips below -10°C. Most of the time we were there it ranged between -3°C and + 4°C. Wind chill factor is another issue and when high can make unpleasant difference.

    Really we did not go very far afield. We hired a camper van and with our daughter and her partner, who were there for about ten days crossover time before they went South to Oslo, we travelled to the Lyngen Alps together and then back to Tromsø via Sweeden and the very tip of Finland. Travel between these Scandanavian counties is seamless.

    I thought I would list a few headings here and one or two I may develop into a separate thread of their own.

    Snowmobiling

    Also at Lyngen we went on Snowmobiles at Camp Troll, which was great fun. They provide heavy thermal oversuits and boots and I enjoyed it hugely, but one of our party said we didn't go fast enough! The ride is rugged, but you have to be brave and let the machine find it's own way to some extent. You ride in pairs and at least one pair went off into deep snow and had to be towed back out.

    Just down the road from there we visited the most northerly distillery in the world, Bivrost, which takes it's name from Viking mythology. A very interesting tour of the distillery which heaps of information on their whisky journey. Now this leads me into the next topic.

    Alcohol

    I had, erroneously as it happens, assumed these rough tough Norwegians would be hard drinkers, and they may be, but getting the booze is not as easy as you might think. There are very few outlets in the first place. In fact there are only two in Tromsø, which is a town of around 70,000 people. The outlets are government owned, have restricted hours, are the only places allowed to sell alcohol over 4.75% and the name, Vinmonopolet, really says it all. To tell the truth, Norway tends to be a country of monopolies.

    Alcohol under 4.75% can be bought in supermarkets, but only under quite restricted time frames less then the opening hours. Of course, you have to be of legal drinking age and a store member has to sign off to this effect. The consequence of this policy meant that after having a very small tasting at a distillery, a person was unable to buy what they had sampled should they wish to do so, because of the monopoly!

    Roads


    Tromsø itself is situated on an island and is one of several in the area. Our son lived about 45Km from Tromsø on the island of Kvaløya. When we first arrived there was considerable snow around and the snow ploughs were constantly at work. The road was rough with corrugated ice ridges. When the ice thawed a little later the road was even worse as, according to Simon, it is the worst road in the region. The snow ploughs direct the snow off the road and a wall of what looks like snow, but in reality is compacted ice. forms on the roadsides. You don't want to make a mistake and hit this wall by accident. The snow ploughs have fiberglass markers jammed into the road side so they know how far over to clear the road.

    P1090436.jpg

    Placed every 5meters or so, they are knocked in the ground by machines and likewise, in the late Spring and Summer are removed by a machine.

    Once in Tromsø there are some spectacular bridges and tunnels. The bridge connecting Kvaløya and Tromsø has a wind warning and an indicator advising wind speed. Simon told me that during high wind events it will simply be closed. The tunnels are something else. They are extensive, have car parks, roundabouts and side turnings: All underground. There is a 70Km/hr speed limit in the tunnels and I mention this, because elsewhere in the city it is 60Km/hr or 50Km/hr. It seemed fast. In the residential areas the limit is down further to 30km/hr. You have to keep a sharp eye out for the speeds as the Norwegian police are, how can I put this, vigilant? The vehicle tyres are studded and allow near normal driving on snow covered or more likely ice covered roads, but discretion is the keyword there and it is inadvisable to push things.

    The Fjord

    The landscape is harsh, but spectacular. I should emphasise that I have only seen it in the snow-covered winter. I am told it is beautiful at the height of summer as the vegetation has evolved to grow quickly taking advantage of the brief period of warmth, which is up to about an average of 15°C. These are some views from Simon's house across the fjord. It is just over 3Km wide at this point and can be beautiful:

    P1090430.jpgP1090432.jpg

    or partially obscured through the middle

    P1090452.jpgP1090453.jpg

    Or pretty dam hard to see anything

    P1090494.jpg

    In this pic you see how the water was rough with crests on the waves due to the wind:

    P1090334.jpg

    The melt water flows in a multitude of small streams under the road

    P1090443.jpg

    and out the other side to the fjord

    P1090444.jpg

    The fjord itself is busy with many type of shipping including ferrys, cruise ships, cargo vessels and fishing vessels: Even the odd "tinny." This one had me a little stumped. I thought it might have been an ice breaker with my second guess being a tug. Turns out it was a heavy-duty, ocean-going tug/supply vessel, the Aurora Saltfjord. It looks like a brute:

    P1090481.jpgP1090480.jpg

    Ships were not the only occupants of the fjord. This is the Norwegian Sea Eagle. Not a very good shot as they are too quick for me. Unlike our own Wedge tailed eagle, they flap their wings and fly rather than relying on thermals and gliding. consequently, every time they were spotted, they had flown out of sight before I could grab a camera. This one looked like a rock at some distance and it was only when I took a chance and zoomed in with the camera it became apparent that it was a large bird. Luckily, for comparison, a gull about the size of a crow was stationed next to this Alpha winged predator. The gull wasn't too happy with the situation.


    P1090448.jpg Norwegian Sea Eagle.JPG

    There is quite a bit more to come: Mainly observations and probably the best bit: The sled dogs.

    To be continued.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

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  3. #2
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    Default

    spent some time there many decades ago.
    had friends there so got to see quite a bit and stay in some local homes in different areas.
    fantastic scenery.

    found there were plenty of dry areas - no alcohol sold.
    so, the locals made their own.
    they said close to 100% proof. I dunno. But they said it was so pure you didn't get a hangover
    tradition was to put it in the black coffee and called it coffee doctor.

  4. #3
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    Default The Northern Lights

    Northern Lights

    Well, the Tromsø area is famous for being one of the best places to see the Northern lights, but to see them the atmospherics have to be good. I have to say that I am a bit of a killjoy in regard to all this and I am completely against the trend in that I went to Norway to see the granddaughter and anything else was incidental and a small bonus. My daughter and her partner desperately wanted to see the lights and would set an alarm to get up and watch for them every hour during the night. In the ten days they were there they did not see anything. We saw this:

    46521761-8797-4dbe-b0d0-5358b554e55c.JPG9b899f04-af48-4d51-b242-174a3006129f.JPG9843789e-4392-4a60-9683-1ea05b4dd6b7.JPG203680fc-814d-4045-986d-7732843d8231.JPG

    The next night SWMBO got up and saw an even better show so she said, but no camera. I just stayed in bed!! We did inform the daughter and partner, who by that stage had travelled down South to Oslo. The daughter was miffed, but philosophical. The partner was and still hasn't spoken to us.



    One small point and I don't know if it is my eyes, but I did not see the green fluorescence in real life that you can see in the pix above. I saw the shapes as a grey/white image and they were amazing with the patterns changing really quite quickly. But no green.



    Dog Sled

    We went for a dog sled ride at the Villmarksenter and that was very enjoyable. You can be driven by one of the Senter's mushers or you can opt to self-drive. We were happy to be chauffeured around. We had a small connection with this outfit as Simon's partner until the day before our excursion had been working there. The people were very pleasant and it was a good day. The experience was so good that I delved into the racing aspect as by chance the Finnmarksølpet was about to setoff.

    Some pix from our day. Clearly we are not photographers:

    IMG_3308.jpgIMG_3325.jpgIMG_3317.jpgIMG_3310.jpgIMG_3312.jpg


    IMG_3314.jpgDog sled 1.jpgDog sled 2.jpg

    Heavy thermal suits and bots were provided:

    Dog sled 3.jpgDog sled 4.jpg

    This, for me, was one of the best excursions.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  5. #4
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    Welcome back Paul!

    I was in Stavanger in the early 90’s on a port visit during a NATO exercise; I recall alcohol being fairly available in the few bars…but ruinously expensive at the equivalent cost now of around $20 per beer… what is the actual price now?

    The Northern Lights are truly spectacular; I’m glad you got to see at least one good display although it appears you may have adopted an attitude of “once you’ve seen one Aurora Borealis you’ve seen ‘em all…” I had the privilege of seeing it several times at sea; once you take away the land-based light pollution you can see every little wave and flicker and sometimes the flashes were painfully bright. The bridge watchkeepers were half amazed by the display and half pee’d off with their loss of night vision!
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  6. #5
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    Love the Pics Paul, I spent a lot of time travelling but never made it to Norway - perhaps one day

  7. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Welcome back Paul!

    I was in Stavanger in the early 90’s on a port visit during a NATO exercise; I recall alcohol being fairly available in the few bars…but ruinously expensive at the equivalent cost now of around $20 per beer… what is the actual price now?

    The Northern Lights are truly spectacular; I’m glad you got to see at least one good display although it appears you may have adopted an attitude of “once you’ve seen one Aurora Borealis you’ve seen ‘em all…” I had the privilege of seeing it several times at sea; once you take away the land-based light pollution you can see every little wave and flicker and sometimes the flashes were painfully bright. The bridge watchkeepers were half amazed by the display and half pee’d off with their loss of night vision!
    Chief

    Everything is a little more expensive in Norway. The booze is deliberately more expensive, apparently to discourage consumption, but I didn't buy any beer so I am not too sure there. Spirits seemed to be about 10% to 20% more expensive providing you did not go to exotica, but that is probably the same in any country.

    At a restaurant the wine was expensive, but I am comparing to Millmerran. If I habitually dined out in Brisbane, the differential may not have appeared to be so much.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  8. #7
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    Thanks for sharing these experiences and photos.

    Our family visited Norway as part of a longer trip across the region. I loved Trompso. The road network with the tunnels you described were amazing. I'd never experienced anything like it, and still haven't. We were there December/January, which added another experience of darkness 24 hours/day.

    While I enjoyed seeing the Aurora, my absolute favourite activity was the dog-sleds. We were given 10 minutes of instruction, and then off we went, driving our own dogsleds across the forest area. Truely amazing experience.

    Thanks again for the walk down memory lane.

    cheers,

    ajw

  9. #8
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    Default Avalanches, Reindeer, Moose & Taxis

    In the electricity thread (post#2005) NeilS showed this warning:

    Takras.JPG

    Clearly a warning about falling snow and he says it roughly translates into 'ROOF AVALANCHE Proceed at own risk'

    I did not see that sign myself, but in a supermarket, I did see a very large electronic notice board similar in size to the information screens we see in our supermarkets except it was advising the "Avalanche Risk" for the future. I found myself equating it to our high UV awareness signs seen on the roads.

    In fact, during our Snowmobiling excursion in the Lyngen Alps we paused for a moment and I was talking with one of our three guides. He pointed to some mountains and said they were popular for skiers. He went on to say that a young man in his twenties from Tromsø had been killed there on the hills we were viewing in an avalanche the previous year.

    Sami Experience

    We visited a Sami camp and went on a reindeer sled ride. This involved hand feeding reindeer and then jumping on a sled and being led around in a circle by a man on foot. It was a little less than exhilarating and not helped by windy, miserable weather. I am trying not to be negative on this one as overall the experience was good. We were fed a stew and hot drinks and given a talk about the changing world for the Sami people. As the indigenous population of the North, they have many challenges. An example is the effect of climate change on their reindeer. Also the Norwegian Sea Eagles kill the newborn calves, but the eagle is protected. The Sami are allowed to kill one eagle a year and the body is removed immediately by the government instead of allowing it to remain as a warning to other birds. Apparently, the eagles learn pretty quickly when something is fraught with danger. I don't wish to diminish the importance of reindeer as the Sami are the only ones allowed to farm or rather herd reindeer and it forms a huge part of their existence. As they pointed out, it is their entire life.

    Moose

    While talking reindeer, I should also mention moose. The Norwegians have similar trouble with moose on the roads as we have with kangaroos. We had to take Simon's car in for a small repair at a smash repairer and he came back out and pointed to a car that happened to be the same model as his. The roof was completely caved in and the front windscreen was knocked back to the seats. It looked as though an elephant had stepped on it, but in fact a moose had landed on it. A bull moose can weigh up to 600Kg and they make a significant mess of the vehicle with all their weight up high on long legs, which is the opposite of a roo.

    Taxis

    I don't think uber exists in Norway. All the taxis are more traditional and include Mercedes, BMWs and many electric vehicles of course and one that surprised me, an EV Porsche. I did a double take on that one. It was a SUV type and not a 911.

    Still a little more to come.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  10. #9
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    Default Cost of Living

    Cost of Living

    Chief Tiff asked whether alcohol was still expensive and yes it is, but not the only thing that is expensive. Generally, the cost of living seems higher than in Australia, which is also relatively high. An example of this is fuel. If the average in Australia is $2 per litre, it $3 per litre in Norway. I find this a little ironic in that Norway has made it's fortune from North Sea Oil. Perhaps it is all exported and they don't refine any themselves. Food too is more expensive than here. One little anomaly was Salmon and Sea Trout. The Norwegians tend to buy Sea Trout instead of Salmon both of which are readily available as frozen product in the supermarket freezers. I think this is on the grounds of the Salmon being farmed, which tends to be an ecological nightmare.

    I have not looked into whether the wages reflect the high standard of living.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #10
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    My wife's brothers son lives in Norway on one of the Northern Islands he is some sort of geologist and takes a rifle with him when out doing his job, he has to be very mindful of Polar bears.

    Like you Richard my wife's brother visits to see the grandchild, but I don't think he understands his sons choice of where to live, after finishing his PHd Luke (the son) got offered two jobs one was to do with volcano's in Hawaii and the other Norway, you can guess which one Richard would have preferred him to take

  12. #11
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    Default Museums in Tromsø

    Camelot's mention of polar bears brings me indirectly the subject of museums in Tromsø. We visited four museums (we were there for a month, but not just in the museums! In Tromsø ):

    The Troll Museum

    As the name suggests, this centered around the mythology of Trolls, which is prominent in Norwegian culture. It was interesting with quite a few interactive features. Probably one of the few museums that would interest small children too.

    The Artic Museum

    This is a scientific museum associated with the university, although it does go into Sami culture too and was so good we went back a second time. This was not to revisit like watching a movie again, but because we only got halfway around the first time. Fortunately, we qualified as seniors and got a reduced entry fee. Some of the exhibits in the first area, which was really about the history of the earth, were very enlightening. For example, associated with the age of the earth there was a stack of A4 sheets of paper about 2.5m high. A variety of coloured sheets represented the various periods. The very top sheet (a single sheet) was pulled out a little from the stack as otherwise it would have been invisible: It represented the time when man appeared. We all know how new we are to the planet, but it was such a graphic representation. It also emphasised how we have changed the planets development in such a small proportion of earth's life.

    The Polaria Museum

    Our daughter and partner, who are both fiercely against animals being kept in captivity (other than rescued and injured critters) would not visit this one as they have five seals in a water enclosure, which is during the coming year being rebuilt to be many times larger. We visited and were glad to. There were many marine based exhibits and it was very worthwhile. Interestingly one pair of seals had bred and there was a baby pup swimming around too. So maybe there were not too unhappy. Or there was not much else for them to do.

    The Polar Museum

    If the previous museum was a challenge for our eco warriors, then this one was a definite no no! It traced the early history of Norway that fundamentally, before oil was discovered, formed the basis of their existence and centered around seal fishing and even more disturbingly hunting polar bears. Of course that is mainly in the past, but is still hugely confronting for practically anybody. However, if you can get past the willful killing of these creatures and highlight as a tool as to what should not be done it is both revealing and arguably enlightening. There was also two separate exhibitions on two famous Norwegians, Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen. These were both extensive and worthwhile, particularly if the history interests you. The building itself was also of interest being quite old.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post

    The Polar Museum

    The building itself was also of interest being quite old.
    Paul

    I didn't have time in Tromsø to visit any of the museums, but that old building on the waterfront where the Polar Museum is housed caught my attention with its regulation red with white window trim. The other less common colour scheme being ochre with white door and window trim. Must make deciding what colour to paint a building easy!
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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    Quote Originally Posted by NeilS View Post
    Paul

    I didn't have time in Tromsø to visit any of the museums, but that old building on the waterfront where the Polar Museum is housed caught my attention with its regulation red with white window trim. The other less common colour scheme being ochre with white door and window trim. Must make deciding what colour to paint a building easy!
    Neil

    The colours of Norwegian buildings in general are miles apart from what would be considered in a fit in Oz. Perhaps they are these colours so you can easily find them in the snow.

    The ground floor of the Polar Museum appeared to be wide, thick boards, heavily varnished and very rounded over across their width (I would guess at 50mm thick). I don't know the timber, but my first guess would be Birch as that it used extensively. However, Birch trees don't generally grow to large diameters and I am not sure they could have recovered such wide (200mm+) timbers easily.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  15. #14
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    Default Souvenir Shops

    Something I have not mentioned is the proliferation of souvenir shops. They seem to be everywhere and of course smaller versions are at the tourist venues too. There are the usual gimmickry including T-Shirts, Mugs, Trolls etc.. One thing that is different is the Sami Knives. I am the proud owner of one of these, which I think is as good as any I saw and better than most, but it was given to me by Simon when he visited Oz a while back. The style of knife is reasonable unique (an oxymoron or just a contradiction in terms?) to Northern Scandinavia and you can see my version here.

    Individual knives are available in a range of sizes, but only a couple of times did I see the combination sheath.

    A good range of pullovers are usually available at the dedicated souvenir shops in the city too.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    In the electricity thread (post#2005) NeilS showed this warning:

    Attachment 536556

    Clearly a warning about falling snow and he says it roughly translates into 'ROOF AVALANCHE Proceed at own risk'


    This attachment didn’t upload
    Cheers

    DJ


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