Thread: adhesive for sandpaper onto flattening surface

Pampelmuse, a spray can of craft adhesive will last you for quite a while, and the plus is that with even application you improve the chances of a flat surface.

Which is critical.

Sorry to rain on your parade. And I'd add that you should check how flat your benchtop is as well. Flatness is critical for what you want to do.

Even plate glass varies by 100th of an inch, and it varies differently as you go up through the grits on other parts of a sheet. May not sound much but trying to correct the effects of #1200 with say #1600 is seriously hard work.

And my final downpour ;-} is this: the coatings on hardware abrasive sheets are not made for what you want to do; they're uneven, and as well the corners will get more abrasion (due to more exposure to fresh abrasive) than the middle so you're actually creating unflatness.

I learned this the hard way.

Originally Posted by rsser

Pampelmuse, a spray can of craft adhesive will last you for quite a while, and the plus is that with even application you improve the chances of a flat surface.

Which is critical.

Sorry to rain on your parade. And I'd add that you should check how flat your benchtop is as well. Flatness is critical for what you want to do.

Even plate glass varies by 100th of an inch, and it varies differently as you go up through the grits on other parts of a sheet. May not sound much but trying to correct the effects of #1200 with say #1600 is seriously hard work.

And my final downpour ;-} is this: the coatings on hardware abrasive sheets are not made for what you want to do; they're uneven, and as well the corners will get more abrasion (due to more exposure to fresh abrasive) than the middle so you're actually creating unflatness.

I learned this the hard way.

Rsser,
Quite happy to have my parade rained on if it gives me a better outcome . I was under the impression from my reading in the forums and elsewhere that this method produced a result that was acceptable for many experienced forumites. If it aint (which follows from what you say and from reading about lapping problems with plane soles .... and I have already seen with my own eyes the dubbing of the blade corners on some wider chisels using the aforementioned method).... then in a home workshop with litle machinery, what is your suggestion as to how should proceed to flatten and polish blade backs?? Is this going to require more investment in equipment e.g. Diamond plates? If so, the concept of 'cheap' old second hand tools may need to be revised.

Yes, it does. Even cheap abrasive on plate glass ends up costing a bit; certainly if you've got a few irons or chisels to do.

And yes, diamond plates are at least flat (well, 1 thou variation) so more reliable but exxy and you'll need at least a couple of grits.

I've been there too and before too long they wear and the time factor goes up. OK, for some folk they've got the time and not the money.

The other option is ceramic whetstones and in my view these are the best and cheapest over the long term. I start at #120, then just recently have tried the jump to #1000 and that worked, and then you're flat and you're into refining and polishing territory. So maybe #3-4000 and then #6-8000.

You also need a method of cleaning and flattening these, and I've had good results with #36 SiC grains on plate glass, and a coarse diamond plate on the higher grades but it's said that #90 or so SiC grains on plate glass again will work for those.

So it all adds up {

Another option when you're moving into refining and polishing is to locate some 3M microfinishing abrasive sheets and whack these on glass. That stuff uses carefully graded abrasive grains evenly coated on polyester sheet. You still risk dubbing the corners but the risk is lower and you can compensate with your stroke directions.

HTH.

I don't even use any glue.
Kero on paper on glass tends to create a vacuum and therefore the paper stays put. Flattened many a plane sole and blade this was.

Is that cheap enough?


Cheers


Steve

[QUOTE=toolbagsPLUS;1290845]I don't even use any glue.
Kero on paper on glass tends to create a vacuum and therefore the paper stays put. Flattened many a plane sole and blade this was.

Is that cheap enough?




Sounds very cheap indeed. I'll have to try that. Seems I'll have to invest in some diamond plate anyway in order to flatten my wetstones which have just started using for bevel sharpening. So if I keep the whetstones flat as possible it may be the best method using my existing equipment (plus a diamond plate).

[quote=pampelmuse;1290910]

Originally Posted by toolbagsPLUS

I don't even use any glue.
Kero on paper on glass tends to create a vacuum and therefore the paper stays put. Flattened many a plane sole and blade this was.

Is that cheap enough?




Sounds very cheap indeed. I'll have to try that. Seems I'll have to invest in some diamond plate anyway in order to flatten my wetstones which have just started using for bevel sharpening. So if I keep the whetstones flat as possible it may be the best method using my existing equipment (plus a diamond plate).

I use the same system for flattening my stones as well seems to have worked fine for the past 20+ years. Get a pane of 10mm or 3/8" plate glass.


Cheers


Steve

I stuck wet and dry paper to glass with Pva - not a good idea but eventually got most of it flat enough.
Now that the original sheets have worn out I just clamp sheets to the glass with welding clams or bulldog clips.

Even cheaper than kero is water. With 600 grit wet-or-dry. Very quick replacement when needed.

Cheers,
Joe

I find W&D sandpaper sticks to glass with just a bit of water, I haven't needed to use any adhesive.