Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 11 of 11
-
27th July 2018, 09:10 AM #1
Do the blades need sharpening or maybe replacing?
Finished cutting my first box.
Not satisfied with the mitre cuts accuracy on the Makita LS1216
Although its made and promoted as Deep eXact Accuracy.
It's not a Festool.
I can see some play in the blade when I move the handle from left to right.
Would the blade sharpness be a factor as well?
Red is mitre saw
Yellow is table saw
IMG_0074.jpg IMG_0076.jpg IMG_0077.jpg
IMG_0080.jpg IMG_0079.jpg IMG_0078.jpgThanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
-
27th July 2018 09:10 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
27th July 2018, 09:30 AM #2
Note to self on cleaning:
Any tips to tell if this circular saw blade needs sharpening or replacing?Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
-
27th July 2018, 10:52 AM #3Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
A sharpen won't hurt.
What exactly aren't you satisfied with? Is the angle wrong? It the blade drifting/the cut surface not flat? Is it burning?
-
27th July 2018, 01:43 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Apr 2016
- Location
- Mooroopna, Victoria, Australia
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 228
If the red blade is Diablo, I've found them to be unreliable for accurate cuts. Both blades do look like a sharpen wouldn't go astray.
-
27th July 2018, 02:03 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Location
- SC, USA
- Posts
- 611
A good sharpening solves a lot of problems... It certainly won't hurt..
-
27th July 2018, 02:46 PM #6
Been out in the 18° weather getting a good start on yard work.
Sharpening it is.
Many thanks.
The angle is spot on.
I'm sure its my push technique.
Shifting my weight.
Extending my arm.
The second set of barrel guides engaging on the Makita LS1216.
Might be rust build up.
It only takes a micron of wobble or a micron of shift somewhere.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
-
27th July 2018, 10:13 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
- Location
- SE Melb
- Age
- 64
- Posts
- 1,277
There is a technique for cutting moldings accurately with a compound mitre saw. First mark your cut as accurately as you can with a pencil or marking knife and a combination square or bevel gauge. Mark all four sides. Make your first cut about 3 ~ 4 mm (approx one kerf width) on the waste side of the line. Next slide the piece towards the saw blade by about 0.5 ~ 1 mm and make another cut. There will be a lot less resistance on the 2nd cut because there was a lot less material to cut through and the saw should cut through with little effort. After finish cutting, compare the cut with your marking or pencil line. The lines should be parallel on all 4 sides. If they are indeed parallel, then you saw is good to go. If not, then you need to adjust your saw. (You only need to do it once to establish your base line). You then offer the saw a little more to trim off and you can do that continuously without turning off the saw (you only need to make the notch wider and wider until the kerf is exactly on the pencil line). Then cut the board right through. That cut should be a accurate as the saw allows it.
Unless you've done a lot of cutting. your tungsten carbide tip probably won't need sharpening. I would try the technique first and see how you go.
-
3rd August 2018, 12:47 PM #8
I had been using digital guides to measure the angles.
Then cut two pieces at 45° and check with builders square.
spot on.
But wasn't finishing a proper test by cutting 4 pieces at both ends.
To make a square.
Then adjusting by 1/8th. and repeat.
My bad.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
-
6th August 2018, 05:02 PM #9
Hello Barry
Others have commented on blade sharpness !
Equivalent Festool costs double the Makita .....
But a chopsaw or a Sliding Compound Mitre Saw is not a precision instrument, even the Festool. The Kapex is less imprecise than the Makita which, in turn, is better than a Ryobi or what ever...
Cheers
Graeme
Stand by for flack from Festooliots !
-
6th August 2018, 07:13 PM #10
I've recently had the opportunity to use 10 year old Festool Kapex.
It was still spot on. And easy to set to the angle I wanted.
Both bevel and miter.
The owner mentioned it was spot on out of the box and hasn't needed adjusting.
I was reluctant to use it knowing full well it was considerably higher quality.
And double the price.
... The Kapex is less imprecise than the Makita ...
Kapex is more precise than Makita presets?
Yep, proven myself.
Compared my Makita presets anyway.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
-
7th August 2018, 11:01 AM #11
Hi Barry
There is always a little flex in the sliding mechanism, less so in the Kapex than the Makita, but it is still there and measurable. A well set up good quality table saw is inherently more stable.
But what precision is needed? If Makita is not quite there, then a couple of strokes on the shooting board should work wonders.
Cheers
Graeme
Similar Threads
-
Any tips to tell if this circular saw blade needs sharpening or replacing?
By barrysumpter in forum HINTS & TIPSReplies: 39Last Post: 19th December 2016, 09:56 PM -
Replacing Ozito thicknesser blades. How?
By munruben in forum JOINTERS, MOULDERS, THICKNESSERS, ETCReplies: 1Last Post: 6th May 2013, 08:10 PM -
jig for sharpening blades
By bent wood in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 5Last Post: 9th March 2008, 07:49 AM -
Sharpening Jointer Blades
By Ranger in forum HAND TOOLS - POWEREDReplies: 5Last Post: 24th August 2004, 09:39 PM -
sharpening blades
By alan hughes in forum SHARPENINGReplies: 10Last Post: 6th August 2004, 09:51 PM