Thread: The next chapter in my sharpening journey

Hi Glenn

Do NOT use the diamond plate for the backs of your chisels. It will wear out. Keep it for your waterstones.

There is a reasonable chance that the chisels are moving in the Veritas guide if their backs have high spots. They do need to be flattened. I use sandpaper on glass, from 120 grit upwards (if widely out of flat) or 220 grit upward otherwise. Diamond stones may be used, with 225 grit generally the lowest grit I would recommend.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I've found one of these cheap multi plate diamond thingies good for doing the rough work.

Where from fuzzie ?


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They have been at Aldi on occasion for under $20. I think I have seen them once upon a time in Bunnings, but I can't find it in their online catalogue at the moment. Ebay has some.

Derek is spot on regarding the slipping with the Veritas guide. The back must be flat enough so that the clamping occurs/grips at two spots in the back, otherwise the blade slips so easily. Oh the heartache when you are at the end of restoring a chisel and it slips out of square unnoticed This can also happen if one of the locking nuts is too tight. then when the other knob is tightened there is only one point on the back holding it in place, more slipping of course.

One other point or aside, a lot of old plane blades don't have parallel sides. They flare out by a degree or two towards the working end. Using the jig to set the blade square will end up making the cutting edge square to one side, but out of square to the centre line of the blade. Only choice is to eyeball it, then use a sharpie to mark the edge, take a couple of strokes to see if the ink is being removed evenly, then proceed.

I'm happy to use the Veritas Mk II (with flat and cambered rollers) for plane blades, but find it hopeless for chisels. Far too easy for them to slip under the clamp - to give yourself the best chance though, it is important to nip up the two clamp screws alternately/evenly. If you just tighten one right up, then move to the other, chances are chisel will move under sharpening. The instructions do stress the importance of even pressure from both clamp screws.

These days I use one of these for my chisels - handles any profile, and edges are always exactly square.

Woodworking Tools by Richard Kell

Takes a bit of getting used to, but well worth the effort.

Use the new Veritas small blade/chisel attachment for the MkII honing guide. It is THE BEST guide for chisels (trust me, I have them all - and still freehand all my chisels!).

... and I have the Kell #1. It is impossible to hold and push a blade simultaneously.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

They have been at Aldi on occasion for under $20. I think I have seen them once upon a time in Bunnings, but I can't find it in their online catalogue at the moment. Ebay has some.

bunnings now have these which are similar in size to the Aldi ones
Trojan 3 Piece Diamond Sharpening Kit | Bunnings Warehouse

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Hi Glenn

Do NOT use the diamond plate for the backs of your chisels. It will wear out. Keep it for your waterstones.

There is a reasonable chance that the chisels are moving in the Veritas guide if their backs have high spots. They do need to be flattened. I use sandpaper on glass, from 120 grit upwards (if widely out of flat) or 220 grit upward otherwise. Diamond stones may be used, with 225 grit generally the lowest grit I would recommend.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek ... I figured that might be the case .. And you confirmed for me .. Much appreciated.

Can't comment on the sharpening jig as I have the Mark 1. It takes a little finess to get them to run well but I see that as being normal for any tool. If we could press a button and walk away...that takes all the fun out of it.

Thumbs up for Jig sharpening mate. I don't often use jigs anymore but my take on it now is what ever gets your tools sharp and makes you smile in the process, works! I agree, sarpening nazi comments involving the words 'only' or 'you must' are generally useless.

Don't know about wearing out a diamond plate as I'm yet to come close to doing that and one of mine is 20yrs old and extremely well used. I now own a lot of diamond plates and whetstones and enjoy using both but often opt for diamond as it's much quicker for me. Maybe it's a brand thing but Atoma is very reputable. I have had a bit of bad luck with DMT but there is big fan base for them online.
Everyone has a different take on that topic but I'm glad we have so many systems to choose from. No one is left out of sharpening fun regardless of opinions!

One thing you will experience quickly with diamond plates is they need to be broken in. If it's a dedicated flattening tool for whetstones, I bet it will break-in a lot more evenly across the whole face of the plate.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Use the new Veritas small blade/chisel attachment for the MkII honing guide. It is THE BEST guide for chisels (trust me, I have them all - and still freehand all my chisels!).

... and I have the Kell #1. It is impossible to hold and push a blade simultaneously.

Regards from Perth

Derek

If the Kell guide was impossible to use, I doubt he'd have sold many. No problems at all - you just have to get the knack. Besides which, I have an issue with paying out more money to buy yet another "attachment" for the Veritas MkII to correct basic design deficiencies....if it worked as originally claimed for plane blades and chisels, why would they have designed another add-on for it? Veritas do make some great kit (and I have lots of their tools), but sometimes you're better off waiting for them to iron out the kinks. Yes - I had a MkI as well, but ended up giving it away.