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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Seattle, Washington, USA
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    Hmmm...

    It's always been my understanding that honing with finer stones removes the serrations at the edge, which then causes more of the edge to be in contact with the surface being shorn, which better distributes the force, which slows the overall wear.

    So the concept of an edge honed to a finer grit blunting more quickly is counterintuitive.

    Am I misunderstanding something about what you're saying?

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
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    68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Maddux View Post
    Hmmm...

    It's always been my understanding that honing with finer stones removes the serrations at the edge, which then causes more of the edge to be in contact with the surface being shorn, which better distributes the force, which slows the overall wear.

    So the concept of an edge honed to a finer grit blunting more quickly is counterintuitive.

    Am I misunderstanding something about what you're saying?
    without putting words into people's mouths ...

    there's as sharp as is humanly possible given the steel and sharpening media
    and then, there's sharp enough for the task.

    the former could easily blunt* very quickly, while remaining sharp enough for the task.

    * "blunt" being defined as no longer as sharp as is humanly possible.


    the best analogy I can think of this afternoon is gold foil.
    Gold can be beaten or rolled out into a foil 1 to 2 atoms thick. Apart from a target inside linear accelerator I can't think of any use for a foil that thin. "Normal" gold foil that is thousands of times thicker than the thinnest foil possible, is still very fragile and useful for use as gold leaf.
    so you can have a gold foil that is as thin as possible and also a gold foil, which while not as thin as is possible, is still thin enough to use for guilding.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
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    3,197

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robson Valley View Post

    Do you think that a slightly steeper bevel, say going from 25* to 35* would put
    more steel for support behind the edge and thus reduce the crushing?
    For the tiny region of interest, right at the cutting edge, I'm not that helps when dealing with harder or more abrasive timbers ("Brushbox !! Pay attention when I'm talking about you")

    The one thing I do change a lot is the angle on an M2 paring chisel I have. For softer timbers I sharpen this at 20 degrees, go right up to the 13000 stone, and it's an absolute joy to use. Find a piece of spotted gum though, and the edge gets wrecked in very short time. Re-sharpen with a very small 25 or 30 degree microbevel, plus stropping to extend the useful time between sharpenings, and even then it's barely usable. Mind you, the M2 chisel I'm talking about was one of an older "group make" on this forum, and I've always been a bit suspicious about the quality of the heat treatment. The edge is far more brittle than I'd expect for M2.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

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    I have little concern for gold foil.
    However, I do find a profound difference in effort, the exertion, to push a gouge of 20* and another of 25* in the same wood.
    I'm expecting these to do form line (very deep V grooves) in surface carvings with left and right pairs of edges.

    I sharpen to 1,500 and hone on CrOx/AlOx on hard card stock.

    I confess that I will whip a $50 gouge or crooked knife across the dirty thumb of my leather glove 3X with rather good results.

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