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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    HEYFIELD Victoria
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    Default Flattening Water Stones

    Well I tried out my new King waterstones today and the King 1200 took me ages to get flat before I could even use it and now it needs flattening again after sharpening one blade. I know this has probably been covered a hundred times and I've read a lot about people using sand paper on glass diamond plates etc. I used 120grit W&D on glass using spray adhesive as Jim Davey recommended to me when I bought them at the Melb wood show. I tell ya what, this took me about 3hrs with a few breaks, my arms are sore. I spent the whole 9hr day mainly flattening stones for sharpening one blade so I could use it. I love using my planes but unless I can come up with a quicker way to flatten the stones the whole sharpening process just takes way too long for me. I will end up reaching for the sander and my planes will sit on the shelf. There must be a quicker way, when you have orders to get out the door who has time for sharpening if it takes this long?

    The 1200 King stone took ages and still has a low triangle area end on the corner which will flatten out over time as the rest of the surface comes to meet it, it was like this when i got it. I can use it for now but would be good to get to use the whole top surface area.
    The 6000 Ice Bear one was actually not too bad and flattened out quickly, I thought this much finer stone would be harder but it turns out the 1200 seems to be the hard one to flatten despite what I've read.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    Default Flattening Water Stones

    I use an extra coarse DMT diamond stone (diasharp I think), that i bought from carbatec, to flatten my ceramic stone. I rub them together under running water and I'm done in about 30 seconds (no exaggerating). Hope that helps

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    Default Flattening Water Stones

    Oh, also, do them after each sharpen, or when they get a bit 'mucky' with steel and don't cut properly.

  5. #4
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    Apr 2005
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    HEYFIELD Victoria
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    Default

    Thanks, I'll have to give it a try, just worried I might wear out my new DMT. I've got the duo sharp plus, it has a 325grit side so I'll just sacrifice that I guess, the 600 side cuts nice and quick anyway so I'll save that side for the first bevel on my planes and use the 325 side for flattening stones. I still think it will take me longer than 30secs tho. I seem to take longer than most at anything I try to do with sharpening.
    Maybe I'm getting old.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Sydney
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    Default

    Andrew,
    It might also be a technique problem? Maybe not but worth having a look at.

    I used to flatten my waterstones with glass and sandpaper and it didn't take longer than 2 minutes (depends on how out of flat your stones are). I got over this technique and purchased a DMT duosharp but for some reason I could not get a flat surface so I checked the DMT for flatness and it was bowed. I sent it back and purchased a DMT lapping plate and have had no issues since.

    Good luck,
    Andy

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
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    Default Flattening Water Stones

    You won't wear out a diamond stone with a ceramic stone. Try it under water, that way you wash the guk off the stone and it cuts faster.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    484

    Default Flattening Water Stones

    Something fishy must be going on if you're flattening a King stone for three hours. These are really soft stones. If I flattened mine for that long with any medium, I would no longer have a stone at the end. Maybe the sandpaper got loaded with slurry and stopped cutting?
    Cheers,

    Eddie

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,983

    Default

    If you bought them from Jim drop him an email or PM him (he's a member) if there is a problem he would want to know about it and help you out.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Chifley, ACT Australia
    Posts
    313

    Default Technique

    Quote Originally Posted by groeneaj View Post
    Andrew,
    It might also be a technique problem? Maybe not but worth having a look at.

    I used to flatten my waterstones with glass and sandpaper and it didn't take longer than 2 minutes (depends on how out of flat your stones are). I got over this technique and purchased a DMT duosharp but for some reason I could not get a flat surface so I checked the DMT for flatness and it was bowed. I sent it back and purchased a DMT lapping plate and have had no issues since.
    I think that Andy maybe on to something... Have a look a this article on the Carbatec Website

    CARBA-TEC

    1- Sharpening with pulling strokes rather than with pushing strokes makes less gouges on the stone which is then easier to keep flat.

    2- While restoring the stone, the recommended method is rubbing on wet - wet and dry paper - on a flat surface such as glass using a figure 8 motion.

    Note the advice of keeping the stones wet and in a zip lock bag.

    Hope this info was of use.

    Regards

    Jorge

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Adelaide, SA
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    Default Flattening Water Stones

    Interestingly, this last week I've been doing a lot of sharpening, so I've left my stones in water all week. I'm not sure if I'm getting better are sharing or my, but they seem to be cutting better after soaking for days. Is it ok to store them in water?

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
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    71
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    12,746

    Default

    Another option for flattening is to use coarse SiC grains on glass. I've used #36 which is pretty aggressive and saved for the Shapton #120. With finer stones #90 from Veritas.

    You need to monitor glass flatness with this. Figure of 8 motion is less damaging than up and back. But in time I'd expect the glass would need replacing.

    I'm now playing with 100 micron PSA 3M Microfinishing films. Equiv. to about #150 in W&D. It lasts longer than W&D but does wear out, and it's not easy to source.

    Diamond plates are good if you can afford them. They don't go coarse enough for a #120 stone though. For one-off jobs on stones above #400 I use the Atoma economy job from Tools from Japan
    Cheers, Ern

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Chifley, ACT Australia
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    313

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by johnredl View Post
    Interestingly, this last week I've been doing a lot of sharpening, so I've left my stones in water all week. I'm not sure if I'm getting better are sharing or my, but they seem to be cutting better after soaking for days. Is it ok to store them in water?
    Hi John, try reading the article in the link I provided in my previous post... It says that storing the stones moist in a plastic bag is preferable. There are other good tips in there too.

  14. #13
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    Rockhampton
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    2,236

    Default

    For the 400 stone I use a piece of granite plate with coarse grit 80 at a guess plenty of water with a roundish sort of motion, this takes only minutes and I can see the flattness "appearing" as the grit leaves marks in the high spots and as soon as I get full cover I'm done, look at it again after a wash off in running water and reflections should be a straight, if curves it's not flat, I maintain that flatness with each blade or two, the 1000 I simply rub on the plate in the same manner as above, only takes minutes.


    Pete

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Adelaide, SA
    Posts
    962

    Default Flattening Water Stones

    Quote Originally Posted by GarciaJ View Post
    Hi John, try reading the article in the link I provided in my previous post... It says that storing the stones moist in a plastic bag is preferable. There are other good tips in there too.
    After posting last, I emailed Stuart from 'Tools from Japan' and asked him about storing my stones in water, although I did mistakenly ask him about shapton pro instead of my Sigma ones. Here is his reply:

    Hi John,

    The Sigma Power stones I sent to you a while ago, or are they Shapton Pro stones?

    Because the manner in which they're stored is vastly different...

    Shapton Pro should never be soaked for more than 5-10 minutes, and when you're done dried off and left somewhere to air dry away from heat, cold or a breeze. They need to dry out slowly and carefully.

    Sigma Power, wet, dry, whatever. They don't care. Soaked for a minute or a millennia, doesn't matter. Leave them out to dry somewhere, anywhere. Keeping them 'damp' isn't a good idea purely due to things like mold and fungus, but soaked is fine.

    I fear that if they're Shapton (come in a plastic case, colour coded) they might already be permanently damaged...

    When a Shapton is left wet, it starts to break down, becomes softer and may disintegrate. I know one left in a bucket will turn to mud in not too long a time.

    Stu, toolsfromjapan.com

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    765

    Default

    I have been using a DMT Dia-Flat Lapping Plate for over a year now, and it seems to takes no time at all to flatten any stone (a couple of minutes max) and does not seem to show any wear at all. The only down side is the cost.

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