Thread: honing during a job

For chisels (and BD plane irons), I keep a piece of mdf with green buffing compound scribbled on it nearby and just freehand hone it if it dulls a bit (since I hollow grind, I actually just hone the primary bevel, using the heel of the bevel to hold the the edge at the right angle). When a couple of wipes won't restore the edge, I go back to the grinder. Works for me.

Hi SilverSniper,

If you own a Tormek/Scheppach/Triton, run the tool over the buffing wheel every now and them, before you think it needs it.

If not you can either give it a few strokes on the finest stone/sandpaper/strop you sharpened it to initially. Don't forget to do the back as well.

I use a block of laminated Merbau (8"x3"x3") that I give a light spray of WD40 and then paint on a small amount of honing compound. A few strokes on the face and back of the chisel and you're away again. Or I might use the finest waterstone I used when I originally sharpened the chisel.

Either method, do a little often. By that I mean don't wait till the chisels blunt. Every (and this is a number I picked out of the air as I don't count) 10 chops/ couple of minutes... whatever ... give it a hit.

This also depends on what the chisels used for. If it's just a general bench chisel any of the above will do. If it's a paring chisel (or smoother plane blade) where whatever you're doing with it will be visible in the final bit of furniture, then you might want to spend a bit more time on it. You don't want any knicks across the edge. They'll show up as scratches on the wood.

I'm waiting on a Triton Wet Grinder I ordered but I reckon this will be how I'll sharpen:

General bench chisels: originally ground and buffed on the triton. Touch up on the triton. I'll probably still do the backs of chisels/planes on a flat surface though (waterstone/Merbau block).

Planes other than the smoothers: ground on triton. Probably buffed and touched up on it as well.

Smoothers, better paring chisels: ground on triton, then onto waterstones to 8000grit, then the block of Merbau. Touched up on the Merbau block (or back to the 8000 stone then Merbau. Whatever it takes to get rid of scratches if any)

Japanese chisels: waterstones. 800, 1200, 4000, 8000. Then the Merbau block. Again, if there's scratches go back to a coarser stone to get rid of them, then progress through to the Merbau. If there's no scratches then just touch up on the 'block' often.

You'll probably get numerous recommendations to this, all valid by the way. The secret I reckon is to do a little, often. My opinion is that you wont do it often if you have to worry about jigs or other complicated set ups. I have the 'block' on the bench all the time and hit it whenever I think about it. Also by doing it often, unless you're bashing the crap out of the chisels, you'll find there probably won't be any knicks. Or if there is they'll probably be tiny and buff out OK.

The short answer, do a little, often


cheers,

--
Mark

a couple of drops of water and one of these DMT Double sided diafold hones is all I need during a job.

I prefer to not sharpen on the job whatsoever.....so I carry a spare sharp blade for whatever it is. To try and keep all sharpening at home where I can sharpen them the best.

When you go to the markets, buy a whole bunch of old ones. Sharpen them all up and throw them in your toolbox.

Thanks Mark for the honesty! Glad I'm not the only one that finds using the jig can be tiresome. I haven't used polishing compound yet, but I imagine it would be a pain to keep re-applying it.

I've actually already been using what appears to be the best suggestion so far - carry spare chisels and switch to them as you go.

I should clarify that when I say 'on the job' I'm not out and about, I'm referring to a project such as paring lots of tenon cheeks, which is the kind of work that you really notice the edge disappearing from the chisel.

What about making up a power stropping wheel ala Stu from Tokyo & touch up regularly during the job on that - would be pretty quick.