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  1. #46
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    Great job Brett

    Yes it works now. Def a longer stroke than an orbital

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

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  3. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Try it now. This has caused an unbelievable amount of grief and all I want to is eat. Bloody Google and Adobe! Shoving their noses in where it's not needed.
    what a pity we've missed this year's Academy Awards nominations!!
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  4. #48
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    Well done Brett. Once you have a Youtube account 'Channel', it's easy and fast to share videos with friends and forums. There are even editing tools there you can use after you uploaded the file.
    Only comment I would make is that using plastic on plastic for bearings is not a good idea. Use metal for one of the slide parts to prevent them melting again. Even between the base and the plate holder, e.g. a thin sheet of brass or steel.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  5. #49
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    Thanks Joe.



    That was unbelievable before, a reasonably easy Youtube task made extraordinarily difficult by Google and Adobe.

    Apparently I already had a Youtube a/c, which was news to me.

    Upload the vid, try to play it back and it tells me I need Flash Player which I clearly already have as I played videos just yesterday.

    Adobe sneaks in a download of bloody Macafee which my anti-virus software reminds me of. So I have to delete Macafee. Now I can play the vid.

    Meanwhile, Gmail tab has subsequently changed to some other Google rubbish, requiring me to sign in (clearly as a result of uploading to Youtube).

    Rejects my password which I had successfully entered a few days ago. Have to get a new password. Still can't get back to Gmail.

    Blah blah until finally I get Gmail back again.

    All this time, puta is running slow because it needs it daily clean, I'm hungry, can't get to the stove and finally....
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  6. #50
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    Default Breakthrough or hijack.....

    I had checked my cunning kick bank account and was preparing to go to Carbatec to buy a diamond belt. A part of the process of 'preparing to go to Carbatec' is to ring Brisbane to ask to be put through to Sydney to ask IF they have one on the shelf. Whilst checking the part number I noticed that the description didn't mention grit nor any magical qualities when it came to steel/s but the $289 price seemed to have warning signs all around it?
    Back to the shed for a rethink.
    I put all of my current stock of ProEdge belts onto the machine, tensioned them and ran them. The zirconium belts demonstrated no bump at the join nor did the Trizact. I clamped the ProEdge to the bench but facing away from me, removed the tool rest and linished the back of an unrestored Berg with the 60g zirconium belt running away from the cutting edge rather than towards it. I then blackened it and put it onto a piece of W&D on a glass plate.
    My heart sank as I was presented with a clean and shiny band from 20 to 40mm from the tip and a black band from 0 to 20? BUT, how could these bands be square to the chisel sides when, to get the chisel onto the belt, I had to linished at about a 30deg angle. I put that chisel, and then many others, against a straight edge only to find that they were all slightly BUT CONSISTENTLY bent!

    PEOPLE OF A GENTLE NATURE MAY WANT TO STOP READING AT THIS POINT!

    I placed the partly dressed chisel over open vise jaws and HIT IT with a brass mallet until it appeared straight against a straight edge. I then repeated the 60g linishing process until all of the black was removed by the W&D on a single pass. I then continued linishing the back through 120g zirconium, 600?g Trizact and 1200?g Trizact ( I don't have a 240g zirconium belt).This was the first time I have ever had a truly mirror finish chisel back. I then dressed the bevel ( Veritas Mk2, narrow chisel guide, 25deg, coarse DMT, fine DMT, 220 shapton, 1000 shapton, 8000 shapton, micro bevel on 8000 shapton).
    I then sliced softwood and hardwood end grain like butter.
    I repeated the process on another neglected Berg, including the brass mallet bit, and these 2 are now OFFICIALLY my sharpest chisels!

    I am puzzled by the consistent bend. All of the chisels in the rehab box are Bergs and all exhibited a similar shape. The opportunity this presents is to use the powered version of the Charlesworth rule-trick and dress the back of the first 20/25mm only?

    As the aim of this thread is to find a reasonably priced and grunt-free solution to flattening/ polishing chisel backs, it should be noted that the ProEdge is about $750!

    When I get back tonight, I might do a few more and take pictures along the way but, right at the moment, I now seem to have a way to effectively do the job using the ProEdge but NOT as per the manufacturers instructions.

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  7. #51
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    and there I was believing that chisels were MEANT to have a hollow back so when you flatten it, you only had to lap and polish the ends. And you go and hit it with a brass hammer to change it. How wrong I was....
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  8. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    and there I was believing that chisels were MEANT to have a hollow back so when you flatten it, you only had to lap and polish the ends. And you go and hit it with a brass hammer to change it. How wrong I was....
    I believed the same as you Joe BUT the bend was the other way? These chisels have a convex back, not concave?

    fletty
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  9. #53
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    Sorry fletty. I didnt realise i had use your chisels to pinch up the floor boards on the last job. I'll go easier next time 😉

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  10. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    With a bit of luck......

    Motorised Chisel Flattening

    Well,that embed didn't work, so here's a link that might:

    https://youtu.be/y1i-XQ7ceF0

    Brett

    First link was a no go. Second link was good. Yet another use for a reciprocating action .

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  11. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    How about using the side of a wet stone wheel . . . Fletty, your jet does the job and if I really, really have to flatten the back of a bench chisel, I have my old stone for the Torment . . . no heat issues . . .
    Done a couple of Muji HSS plane blades that way.
    Then was facing dressing the side - too much of a challenge.
    Cheers, Ern

  12. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Bugger
    For a moment I was going to join
    Mensa
    If you can find a good way to mount a recipro saw rigidly, I think you should still apply to Mensa.
    I would suggest a variable speed saw would be best and maybe use a unequal lever system to increase the length of the oscillation by maybe double.
    I suspect that Brett's 200prm or oscillations/min is probably as fast as you wopuld want to go.
    Cheers,
    Joe
    9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    If you can find a good way to mount a recipro saw rigidly, I think you should still apply to Mensa.
    Yebbut, how would hold the trigger on? The only ones I've seen don't have a lock on, obviously for safety reasons. That's what I meant by running out of hands.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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  14. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Yebbut, how would hold the trigger on? The only ones I've seen don't have a lock on, obviously for safety reasons. That's what I meant by running out of hands.
    Just checked my makita
    saw it has a trigger hold on button.
    Never really thought about what there called
    But yes Brett it does

  15. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Yebbut, how would hold the trigger on? The only ones I've seen don't have a lock on, obviously for safety reasons. That's what I meant by running out of hands.
    Cable tie (zip tie if you prefer). Turn on and off at the wall.

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  16. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Just checked my makita saw it has a trigger hold on button.
    Cordless or 240v Matt? Variable speed dial or trigger pressure?


    Quote Originally Posted by Bushmiller View Post
    Cable tie (zip tie if you prefer). Turn on and off at the wall.
    Getting the pressure right for the correct (low) speed could be damned tricky. I had to do a similar thing with another trigger (power table in a table config, but fortunately the speed dial is separate. I suspect that many (most?) recipros out there are cordless too.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

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