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Thread: how to keep oil stones flat ?
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29th June 2009, 10:28 PM #1New Member
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how to keep oil stones flat ?
Hi folks,
Newby here. I appologise if this question has been asked and answered before.
I have always sharpen my chisels on an oblong oil stone - however now after quite a number of times using it the stone now has a "belly" in it. How can I flatten it before my chisels also have a "belly" ?
Any help and assistance much appreciated.
Cheers.
PhilipBest wishes,
Philip
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29th June 2009, 10:58 PM #2
I have found the best way is to get a waterstone, which is much easier to flatten.
Although, that doesn't answer the question .....
Tex
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29th June 2009, 11:15 PM #3New Member
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Cheers Tex,
No it doesnt answers the question - however for a future purchase your info is very usefull.
So how do you flaten a waterstone ?
Does the use of a waterstone give comparable results with an oilesone ?
Thanks again Tex I appreciate your reply.
PhilipBest wishes,
Philip
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30th June 2009, 12:06 AM #4
In theory if you spread out the sharpening over as much of the stone as evenly as possible it will take much longer to wear a hollow-that's what all the books say. In fact though, it takes no time at all to wear a stone unevenly even with proper care.
So, to answer your question: a diamond stone can flatten water stones, and I assume oil stones too. (I have a couple of small oil stones which I use the diamond on) Use a mineral lube during the process-I use turps.
Diamond stones will however leave a glazed surface on coarse stones, and they will no longer cut well. I read something once about dragging a glazed stone down the footpath-haven't had to try it yet though. I find the diamond stones replace a coarse oil or water stone anyway-gets the tools ready for finer honing quicker and cooler.
All diamond lapping stones are not created equal FYI. I use E-Z-Lap with good results.
Greg
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30th June 2009, 12:44 AM #5
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30th June 2009, 07:58 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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30th June 2009, 09:05 AM #7
How I flatten my Oil Stones is to get a sheet of 80 or 100 grit wet and dry lay it on a wide flat pane of glass flood it with kero then in a circular motion rub the offending side of the stone all over the sheet of abrasive depending on how great the hollow is you may have to change the sheet but if not still continually wash the slurry away with fresh kero. Depending on the girt of the oil stone you may wish to finish off the process with a finer grit paper. Using the same technique.
Cheers
SteveDiscover your Passion and Patience follows.
www.fineboxes.com.au
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30th June 2009, 09:13 AM #8
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7th July 2009, 11:26 PM #9
If you use fixed abrasive on a hard or man made stone you will end up with a blunt stone that cuts poorly.
you need to use free grit ( free as in not bound not free as in free beer) on a glass plate...... this grett needs to be at least as hard as the stone and large in comparison to the stone.
AND.......if you don't have a strong upper body..... you will afterwards......seriously hard work of there is a significant dish.
I have serioulsy considered some sort of jug that involves a gribder an a cup disk.
Yeh... buy a new stone.
If you were to but=y a new diamond stome why would you bugger it by flatening an oil stone with it?
Just buy a diamond stone and use that.
why not buy a water stone........fine if you like rusty tools.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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