Reasonable Sharpening Setup

**derekcohen** · 19th December 2016, 08:41 PM

It would appear that from all the advice that I have that if I want to sharpen wood chisels to a cabinetry grade and also sharpen turning tools ( and the odd lawn mower blade and knife) I need a combination of tools. And it won't be cheap.

That is partially correct. To sharpen, you may need different setups for turning and bench tools.

Sharpening bench chisels and plane blades does not need to be expensive. It can be as cheap as chips. There are many ways to approach this end. It depends on how much you want top spend - spending more does not get you any sharper. It gets you convenience. I outlined systems from both ends, above.

The sharpening gear you have chosen is very expensive. Few start there. Some end there. Not all would agree that it is necessary. Starting at the low end gives you a chance to discover what is really necessary. I think that you are going at this like a bull at the gate (before Christmas) and you are at risk of getting it wrong.

If I may make a suggestion: get the Vicmark grinder and use it with the wheels that come with it. You need a stand for the grinder - others can suggest what. Use this set up as is for your lathe chisels. You can always add the CBN wheels later - if you need them. By then you will understand better what they can do. Get a Veritas Mk II honing guide for your bench chisels and plane blades. You need honing plates. Get DMT 600 and 1200 diamond plates and Shapton 5000/8000 waterstones. This lot will make a wonderful Chrissie present!

Regards from Perth

Derek

**bueller** · 19th December 2016, 08:46 PM

I know it's not popular with some around here but the Veritas stuff can be had much cheaper from Axminster in the UK. Paid $120 + shipping for the entire MKII honing set from them a couple of months ago and have been very happy with it. Made a huge difference to my sharpening ability, I can spend an hour using a chisel and it will still be sharper than what I was used to previously.

**Robson Valley** · 20th December 2016, 10:35 AM

Derek #16 is sage advice. I need 3 different "systems" for the freehand sharpening of my wood carving tools. Honestly, a real PITA.
I could afford anything. But wondered: "just how little can I get away with for the carving-sharp edges that I need?"
As I don't carve protein, finger test and shaving tests don't help. Instead, many test carvings in my woods of choice.

If I sharpen to 1,500 with W&D automotive sandpaper then hone on a box card strop with CrOx/AlOx compound, I get what I need.
If I sharpen other tools to 4K on a waterstone, hone as before, I get what I need.
Not difficult to tell that some steels are far harder than others.
Just take s the time to figure them out.

I think that I'll add just one thing to what Derek says:
Every last one of these systems needs learning.
Takes time and probably some puzzles as to why the tool edge isn't sharp (yet!)
I worked at them, figured them out and don't need to learn that again.
I can sharpen a PacNW crooked knife over my knee, at last!

**jmk89** · 20th December 2016, 11:02 AM

You can economise on the grinding jigs using the 'system' described in Robert Wearing's book, The Resourceful Woodworker. The relevant pages are attached.

Thread: Reasonable Sharpening Setup

Thread Tools

Search Thread

Similar Threads

Is this a reasonable price?

An Oire Nomi WIP: Part II - Sharpening Station setup

My sharpening setup & homemade gouge jig

How many routers is reasonable

reasonable price

Posting Permissions

	ANZAC DAY The spirit lives on. They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn. At the going down of the sun and in the morning, We will remember them. Lest we forget.
This day our nation unites to commemorate the sacrifice of fallen servicemen and women during times of war. And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda \| Mothers Daughters Wives \| I Was Only Nineteen \| Diggers Lament