Thread: Sharpening H & S HSS M2 chisels

Answering a few things raised here's my 2 cents worth:

Firstly, D2 and M2 if subject to appropriate heat treating and preparation processes are broadly similar in their wear characteristics and subsequent sharpening requirements.

D2 alloys vary slightly by manufacturer but are chiefly influenced by their high Chromium levels, a "standard" mix is :1.5% Carbon, 11.0–13.0% Chromium; additionally 0.45% Manganese, 0.03% Phosphorous, 1.0% Vanadium, 0.7% Molybdenum, 0.30% Sulphur are in the mix

M2 contains a broader spread in its primary components however metallurgists characterise it by its high molybdenum content (hence the M designation) a typical mix would be: 0.95% Carbon, 4% Chromium, 5% Molybdenum, 6% Tungsten and 2% Vanadium

M grade tool steels were developed to reduce the chromium requirements in comparison with the making of D grade tool steels.

Now on to what I do. I have a range of cutting tools made from both alloys. I've tried several different methodologies to maintain them. For my M2 and D2 woodworking tools I've discovered that oilstones are totally ineffective and that "Norton" and "King" brand waterstones are frustratingly slow.

I've also tried various expensive and inexpensive diamond plates. Diamond plates are fantastic when you first get them but it doesn't take much usage for their effectiveness to markedly decrease.

My D2 and M2 woodworking tools get intensive work on hard and silicacious timbers. They certainly hold their edges better than those from standard oil-quenched steels but eventually require sharpening. I'd say they hold up more than three times as long.

Following a period of experimentation I now sharpen and hone the more durable steels using Sigma Power Select II waterstones. My current system starts with a Sigma Power Ceramic stone at 400 (this is not a "select II but has excellent characteristics all of its own) to remove the worst damage quickly. I then move to a Sigma Power Select II 1200 grit stone followed by a Select II 6000 and a Select II 10,000.

These stones came from Stu from Tools from Japan. I spent a lot of time using unsuitable and less than satisfactory equipment and inferior methodologies prior to purchasing these. I read everything I could on the options available to me and spoke with a few folks I know using similar tools to mine prior to making a decision. It's really a night and day comparison.

My "King" stones still see occasional use on some older cutters but I've given the Nortons away and my oilstones are languishing in the back of a cupboard.

I'm sure others will have different experiences but I am very happy with my decisions.

Horaldic

I use spyderco ceramics. They clog easily if you use them dry but also clean easily with something like Bon-ami and so far have stayed flat. Their slipstones are ideal for turning chisels.
Usual disclaimer, no connection with spyderco except as a customer.
Cheers,
Jim

Any idea of the grit of their slipstone and fine rods Jim? The website isn't helpful.

Originally Posted by rsser

Any idea of the grit of their slipstone and fine rods Jim? The website isn't helpful.

Sorry about this Ern. I've just noticed that I haven't replied. I bought mine from Highland Woodworking and they had the grit specs on their website but I can't access it at the moment. I use a fine for the slip stones and they give a mirror finish. I'll get back when I can find (or remember) out more.
Cheers,
Jim

Thanks Jim. No drama.

The only edges I have to contend with ATM are 4 off nearly 2 m long.

Originally Posted by rsser

Thanks Jim. No drama.

The only edges I have to contend with ATM are 4 off nearly 2 m long.

Enjoy. Found this on the web but accuracy who knows:
the Spyderco Medium is equal to a 1000 grit water stone and Soft Ark, the Spyderco Fine is equal to 2500 grit water stone and a bit finer than a black Ark and the Spyderco Ultrafine is supposedly equal to a 4000 grit water stone
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by jimbur

Enjoy. Found this on the web but accuracy who knows:
the Spyderco Medium is equal to a 1000 grit water stone and Soft Ark, the Spyderco Fine is equal to 2500 grit water stone and a bit finer than a black Ark and the Spyderco Ultrafine is supposedly equal to a 4000 grit water stone
Cheers,
Jim

Interesting ... I have the following understandings ...

"normal" Arkansas ~= 2000 japanese

Black/Translucent ~= 4000

CrO2, Belgian Coticule and others ~= 8000

Paul

Thanks Paul. It's starting to get a bit like horsepower.
Cheers,
Jim

ps finally got some response from Highland Woodworking - site down for maintenance. Must be something to do with Spring.
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by jimbur

ps finally got some response from Highland Woodworking - site down for maintenance. Must be something to do with Spring.
Cheers,
Jim

Site's back and it says:
Medium ceramic stones are about 800 grit. Fine stones are about 1200, and the ultra-fine bench stone is approximately 1800 grit.
Cheers,
Jim

Thanks Jim.