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  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by justonething View Post
    I wonder what your bevel angle is.
    It's 26 or 27 degrees. Veritas honing guide set at 25 deg with microbevel adjustment turned on. Bed angle of the plan would be the same as the Stanley LAJ

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

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  3. #62
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    Nov 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Perhaps someone in Melbourne who some experience in sharpening might be able to advise you on the results you have obtained and give some pointers on using the stones. As has been said above it is an elusive goal when trying to get there with no criteria judge how you are going, that is the important bit as you have nothing to judge against. I myself have gone through at least four steps of increased awareness of how sharp a blade can be and each step was eye opening compared to what I had previously thought was sharp. I am about to try a new technique of silicone carbide on cast iron just to see what happens as some reports say it is an excellent way of going to the next level, we shall see. The experiment is appealing because it is costing nothing and I am always curious.
    That’s a great idea I’m happy to step up to the chop(lol).
    If the OP wants to PM me.(away from Melbourne for ten days)

    Cheers Matt

  4. #63
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    Apr 2011
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    McBride BC Canada
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    Steels don't sharpen like flint breaking along a molecular line. You can't do it.
    I changed, simplified, most of what I do for "carving sharp" after reading Leonard Lee's book.
    Study the scanning electron microscope images on pages 32 and 33.

    Human eyesight cannot physically resolve fine scratches.
    The edges hone to a polish but at 20X magnification, they are not smooth.

    But, spend all you want. Sharpen from your knees not your elbows. You become the jig.

  5. #64
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    Jun 2005
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    Helensburgh
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    Don't spend any more and get together with Matt to assess what you are doing and the results. I would think what you have and some stropping with a finishing compound should get you over the line. The fact that beginners have no idea of what "sharp" should be is the biggest hurdle and I wasted a lot of money finding out. Like me I also reckon that a lot of more experienced members here are yet to see the epitome of sharpness and having got there they can then judge at what level they should be sharpening to for the task in hand.
    CHRIS

  6. #65
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    1. I think you need to increase the bevel angle for hardwood. Try 30°
    2. You need to make sure that you hone your edge to the wire, forming burrs at each step before moving to finer grit.
    3. Make sure you clean your blade thoroughly before moving to a finer grit.
    4. Instead of the green compound I use a bit of autosol from supercheap

  7. #66
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    Nov 2005
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    Darkest NSW
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    I'd say failure to observe point (2) above is the biggest cause for a disappointing sharpening outcome.....

  8. #67
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    May 2010
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    As advice above, go to 30 degrees. I did the 25 degree thing too when I started. Result is just grief. Aussie hardwood = 30 degree bevels minimum, simple.

    Tell you what though, old instructionals like this from Chris Schwarz are well worth a careful watch, so many things that we need to watch for that can cause bad planing results.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CME8UOcIEVg

  9. #68
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    thanks guys. i will try 30deg and ensure there is bur on opposite side.

    But how many of you guys finish at 6000? Do you go further and/or strop?

  10. #69
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    25 degrees on a Veritas BU plane for end grain is absolutely fine. I have planed end grain with this configuration for as long as modern BU planes have been around, and never suffered a chipped edge or a problem with edge holding.

    And here is some recent evidence: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...tingPlane.html

    Note that this assumes that you are planing end grain, not face grain. 37 degrees is too low for face or edge grain.

    If your LA Jack is not cutting, then the blade is not sharp (regardless of the method or stones you use). End of story.

    There may be a few reasons for this, the most common being that you did not create hone across the blade to the back. Creating a wire edge is your guarantee that you have honed across the blade to the back. This needs to be the case with each grit.

    The wire needs to be removed, however if you are sharpening with successive grits, the wire edge should become smaller. Still, ensure it is gone at the end.

    Set the blade for a fine cut, and work your way up to the thickness you need.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    thanks guys. i will try 30deg and ensure there is bur on opposite side.

    But how many of you guys finish at 6000? Do you go further and/or strop?
    I would not be satisfied with 6000 grit, especially for end grain. I have mentioned this before.

    The cheapest way to upgrade the edge is with Lee Valley green compound (crayon), not the Bunnings variety. Some like Autosol, but this must be used on MDF. It is messier than the green compound. There is no extra gain in sharpness. I use the green crayon scribbled on planed hardwood. Just a light scribble. It lasts a long time. Only renew it when it is black.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tccp123 View Post
    This comment from the video says it all for me...

    "Like you Paul i'm a joiner. I served my time with great old tradesmen, shipyard men and men who could turn there hands to most things. We make case and sash windows, doors, cabinets, really anything to turn a buck. No one i know, that makes a living from wood, ponces about "super sharpening" a plane"
    The standards of a joiner will not always do for cabinetwork. There are joiners who use nothing other than an india stone and the palm of their hand, which will be tough.

    Nicholson or similar text is useful if you want to find the sharpening standards of a cabinetmaker.

    Paul Sellers trained as a joiner and not as a cabinetmaker, IIRC. Most of the finer work made on his website involved him and other people, and he's not capable of efficiently preparing stock with hand tools.

    I think he is a good guy, but he's not a good representation of "how they did it in the old days" in a lot of cases, unless the old days is guys doing work in houses in the 1960s and 1970s.

  13. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I would not be satisfied with 6000 grit, especially for end grain. I have mentioned this before.

    The cheapest way to upgrade the edge is with Lee Valley green compound (crayon), not the Bunnings variety. Some like Autosol, but this must be used on MDF. It is messier than the green compound. There is no extra gain in sharpness. I use the green crayon scribbled on planed hardwood. Just a light scribble. It lasts a long time. Only renew it when it is black.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    horse leather on a substrate, MDF, good quality plywood scrap, all of it is fine for autosol.

    I keep meaning to pull up pictures from the two (microscope of autosol vs. the green stick from LV - both are "carving" fine by any standards. Green chrome graded at 0.5 or 0.3 micron is finer than both, but wholly impractical as a step for any woodworking work, because it's also slow.

  14. #73
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    I am late to this thread, but I have a severe fascination with sharpening media, though most of my experimentation is in the past.

    I generally use either:
    1) a washita stone (that includes for end grain - no clue what the equivalence is, but the edge quality across endgrain is more pleasant than a 4000x king stone) followed by bare leather
    2) just about anything similar to a washita stone followed by a cheap hard oilstone from japan that is labeled "barber's oilstone", and is white, then bare leather (or compound on leather if the tool is a carving tool)

    If i were using a complex steel like some of the aussie folks see as necessary, I would use a 1200 or 600 diamond plate followed by the "barber" stone.

    Sharpening must be complete (no scuzzle left on the edge) and it must be quick. There are forum users who can sharpen with a guide and get a fragile edge that is ever so slightly more refined than my #2 above, but their cycle times are three or four times as long as mine.

    (dry grinder, too - if no dry grinder is available, a norton crystolon in oil is the bevel grinding stone of choice - or coarse sandpaper stuck to glass).

    I guarantee that regardless, if you maximize your work at the lower stones to get an edge suitable so that you're never doing more than refining the very edge with your finest stone, you'll have more success and honest laziness should promote your method forward until your sharpening cycle time is less than two minutes.

    (i have sharpened V11 without issue on a washita, it works fine - you couldn't grind a bevel on it, but if you have a grinder and a strop, it's not slow - freehand. A2 is an exception in that on some natural stones, it appears under the microscope to release carbides, and it never really gets sharp feeling. It is the only steel I've sharpened where I see that happen - out of modern chrome vanadium types - like pfeil, O1, older steels, japanese steels, V11 and others, only the A2 did that - and the best A2 did that. This kind of thing, some steels having fits with some media - is well known in knife and razor circles, but probably not in woodworking).

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