Thread: sharpening the Stanley 71

I've repaired and reshaped my share of wood carving gouge edges.
Don't buy any stones yet.
At the end of the day, it's faster to work your way through a series of grits to "refine" an edge.
For example:
I see scratches in the gouge tracks. Those tell me that the edge has hit a sand grain and crumpled.
600 grit to take the edge back just past the damage.
800 grit to smooth that out.
1,000 grit then 1,500 grit to make a clean surface with minimal visible scratches that can be hone on a strop to carving sharp.
Very soft woods are like over-ripe tomatoes, carving sharp or the tool edge mashes the material.

Can you learn what the factory shapes were for the cutter edges?
If that's not what you see, I'd reshape it on a 220 oil stone then work up through the grits.
Your Sandpaper Man has everything. The entire set up shouldn't cost more than $20.00
Then,
you go shopping for a waterstone. I have used the 1k/4k combo stone from Lee Valley.
It's been great for 10+ years but it cuts too slowly = too fine, to be of any use at all for repair or shaping until the very end.

I have a pictorial of the sharpening method I use. Easy and the sharpest router plane blades around.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...aneBlades.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

^ I used Derek's guide when I recently acquired my Stanley 71, was able to get the job done pretty quickly.

Thanks all your contributions. They give me some useful options.

Another option I am looking into is Wetstone grinders, however, I haven't seen any information that indicates that they would be suitable in standard mode for the sharpening of Veritas hand router cutters.

I've looked at Tormek & Triton and wondering if their railing systems, maybe, have a specialist jig that would work, although I'm not hopeful.

What are your thoughts, particularly if you have such a working setup?

I would be very surprised if you found anything. I have looked at everything possible, as far as i am aware.

Out of curiosity, what are you hoping for?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by dalpets

Hi,

Just purchased [a Stanley #71] on ebay, came with 3 cutters. In very good condition for its age.

I noticed, though, that the leading edge of the blades are not straight laterally. They look like they may have been recently sharpened.

Is it normal to have a differential leading edge?

I don't think it matters, PROVIDED the cutting edge is parallel to the sole of the #71.

When using my router planes, I find that I use a skew cutting action most of the time.

I don't think it matters, PROVIDED the cutting edge is parallel to the sole of the #71.

MMmm ... Ian, the cutting edge (if I understand you correctly) is not parallel .. or it would not cut. There is about 5 degrees clearance.

Here a Veritas and a Stanley blade. You can see that the blade angles (is not square), creating the clearance angle ...




Here's a better picture ..






Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,
Take a picture from the front of the plane, i think he means that profile of the leading edge is parallel.
Alan

Ah ha! That is a different situation altogether. The question then is "how did it become that way?". Something s set up incorrectly, or there is a problem with the blade holder, as the sole of the iron is not usually touched (except to keep it polished).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek

Alan has what I meant.

The cutters of a #71 with some history could easily have skewed leading edges.
The question really is -- does it matter? Not if the cutting edge remains parallel to the sole of the plane.

Is there any difference in a Whetstone for sharpening knives, or otherwise, for sharpening chisels, router plane blades & other hand tools?

The answers will be as diverse as the people! Everybody has favorites and abrasives are no different.
Some sharpen freehand, some use jigs, some use machinery. They all work, everybody is happy, just learn how to use it.

As a carver, it doesn't matter much to me but woodworking stones need to be seriously flat.
Eventually, you'll figure out that you need several to cover the range from damage repair up to the fine final rubs for edges that are a pleasure to work with.

I've got 80, 120 and 220 oil stones for shaping and "grinding" damaged edges.
Then I switch to 3M Wet&Dry fine finishing automotive sandpapers on a flat surface (or a cylinder for crooked knives) = 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500 then hone on a strop.
Day-to-day carving, maybe start at 800. Hour to hour honing, maybe a lick at 1500 then hone.

I've got a Lee Valley 1k/4k combo waterstone that's a pleasure to use. I have a King 2k waterstone for my good kitchen knives and cleavers.

Originally Posted by dalpets

Is there any difference in a Whetstone for sharpening knives, or otherwise, for sharpening chisels, router plane blades & other hand tools?

the answer is "yes" and "not really"

most knives are used with a sawing action so a relatively coarse stone will put an adequate edge on a blade.

chisels and plane blades are typically used more like a shaving razor so need a much more refined edge.

Wood carving knives and wood carving skews have very sophisticated edges and bevel angles for the tasks.
Saws have teeth for reason. Seems to need individual attention. One size does not fit all.