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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Default A Sharpening Strategy: beyond a sharp edge.

    Getting a sharp edge is critical for optimal use of handtools. Keeping the edge sharp is even more important.

    The following link is to an article I have on the Fine Woodworking website ..

    http://finewoodworking.taunton.com/i...d-a-sharp-edge

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    You drive me nuts Derek
    Cheers,

    Howdya

    Proudly supporting research into the therapeutic benefits of the Friday Thread

  4. #3
    Join Date
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    Thumbs up

    Just when I was beginning to think Sharpening was not such a bogeyman after all.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Derek - I think we may be approaching the Sharp Edge Event Horizon....a cutting edge just a single atom thick !

    I was reading one of your earlier articles about cambering BUS blades (I have the Veritas). If I get this correct, your procedure is

    - create a flat 25 deg primary bevel (using flat roller on Veritas MkII)
    - change roller to cambered version, and reset blade in the guide for 50 deg (secondary) bevel.
    - create cambered secondary bevel at 50 deg per procedure described.

    I have always ground steep primary bevels, then used the eccentric cam on the Veritas guide to set the secondary at 2 deg greater, followed by cambering. I see your reasoning in using a shallow primary bevel followed by steep secondary bevel to get the camber, but does this edge hold up OK in use?

    Thought I'd check with you before laboriously reducing the primary bevel on my A2 BUS blade.....

  6. #5
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    Mr B

    You have it correct.

    In a nutshell, for a BU plane, if you try to camber a 50 degree primary bevel, you will have an awful lot of steel to remove. This makes it nearly impossible to do. The wood does not care if the cutting angle comes from a primary bevel or a secondary bevel. A low primary bevel (25 degrees) has much less steel to remove and is, thus, easier to camber. So, just add a cambered microbevel to the low primary.

    A primary of 25 degrees is certainly strong enough - most BD planes are ground at that angle.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  7. #6
    Join Date
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    Default

    Thanks Derek - I'll give it a try. My high angle BUS blade was ready for a sharpen anyway, so I'll break out the diamond plate and set about changing the primary bevel angle.

    Cheers

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