THIS IS YOUR FIRST VISIT - PLEASE NOTE:
REGISTER before you can post, view all the pictures, see all threads
Registering will also stop those annoying popup link ads from
Timber & Working With Wood Show
12, 13, 14 June 2015 10:00am to 4:00pm
Hall 6, Sydney Showground,
Sydney Olympic Park
For more info or to volunteer
Unable to help,
CLICK HERE for
info & discounted entry.
Getting a sharp edge is critical for optimal use of handtools. Keeping the edge sharp is even more important.
The following link is to an article I have on the Fine Woodworking website ..
Regards from Perth
Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, many handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
You drive me nuts Derek
Proudly supporting research into the therapeutic benefits of the Friday Thread
Just when I was beginning to think Sharpening was not such a bogeyman after all.
Derek - I think we may be approaching the Sharp Edge Event Horizon....a cutting edge just a single atom thick !
I was reading one of your earlier articles about cambering BUS blades (I have the Veritas). If I get this correct, your procedure is
- create a flat 25 deg primary bevel (using flat roller on Veritas MkII)
- change roller to cambered version, and reset blade in the guide for 50 deg (secondary) bevel.
- create cambered secondary bevel at 50 deg per procedure described.
I have always ground steep primary bevels, then used the eccentric cam on the Veritas guide to set the secondary at 2 deg greater, followed by cambering. I see your reasoning in using a shallow primary bevel followed by steep secondary bevel to get the camber, but does this edge hold up OK in use?
Thought I'd check with you before laboriously reducing the primary bevel on my A2 BUS blade.....
You have it correct.
In a nutshell, for a BU plane, if you try to camber a 50 degree primary bevel, you will have an awful lot of steel to remove. This makes it nearly impossible to do. The wood does not care if the cutting angle comes from a primary bevel or a secondary bevel. A low primary bevel (25 degrees) has much less steel to remove and is, thus, easier to camber. So, just add a cambered microbevel to the low primary.
A primary of 25 degrees is certainly strong enough - most BD planes are ground at that angle.
Regards from Perth
Thanks Derek - I'll give it a try. My high angle BUS blade was ready for a sharpen anyway, so I'll break out the diamond plate and set about changing the primary bevel angle.
View Tag Cloud
Copyright © U-Beaut Enterprises 1999 - 2014. All rights reserved.
This website and its content is copyright of U-Beaut Enterprises. Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents in any form is prohibited other than the following: ♦ you may print or download to a local hard disk extracts for your personal and non-commercial use only ♦ you may copy the content to individual third parties for their personal use, but only if you acknowledge Woodwork Forums as the source of the material.
You may not, except with our express written permission, distribute or commercially exploit the content. Nor may you transmit it or store it in any other website or other form of electronic retrieval system.