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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Katoomba NSW
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    Whichever way you go Brett, get one of these.
    http://www.cwsonline.com.au/shop/ite...o-angle-master
    The easiest way I know of to set the angle to any wheel. I cut the top out of my 8" grinder cover so I can use it on there.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Towradgi
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    4,833

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    Brett, send a pm to Robo hippy. As his website is down.

    Here's a link to the youtube doobiewacker.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Melbourne, Aus.
    Age
    71
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    12,746

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    Subotptimal for bench chisels and plane blades which is Brett's focus.
    Cheers, Ern

  5. #19
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,643

    Default Carbatec got me AGAIN!

    And I did everything right.

    I have danced with their computer before, so I know it has two left feet. Rang the store to ascertain that they had a Creusen 8" full speed grinder in stock, and asked them to sight it.

    "Right, put my name on it and I'll be there in a couple of hours" says I.

    Took them 10 minutes to find it (even though it was on display). Asked for it to be revved up so I could be certain it had no vibrations. Just as well - it made more noise than a HD Holden diff without sawdust.

    Stopped it, made a few adjustments. Even more noise, and now it was losing rpm constantly and consistently. The unit was obviously jiggered. They reckon it was only put together yesterday, so whoever put it together obviously didn't start it up, or they did and don't care.

    Buyer beware - make sure the machine runs properly before purchase.

    There's five hours I won't get back in a hurry. Oh wait, I did manage to pick up 4 litres of turps at Bunnnings for $10.

    Neither Carbatec, nor Sydney Tools, nor Bunnings have any 8" grinder spinning things (ST has a mop, that's it).



    For this second grinder I'd be quite happy to go second hand, but the problem is my location - highly unlikely for one to be on the market when I'm ready (now) and within striking distance of Katoomba. Looks like it might have to be an Chinese A&A from Hare & Forbes.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    950

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    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    Stopped it, made a few adjustments. Even more noise, and now it was losing rpm constantly and consistently. The unit was obviously jiggered. They reckon it was only put together yesterday, so whoever put it together obviously didn't start it up, or they did and don't care.
    That's odd - when I bought my Creusen, there was nothing to put together. I pulled it out the box, plonked it on the dining room table (yes, I'm divorced, so I can ), plugged it in and started it up. Unlike the Chinese one I took back for a refund a week earlier, it just stood there spinning. The Chinese one tried to get away from me, and would only run without walking across the table after I took the wheels off. Then it burnt out after 10 minutes.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,803

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    Hi Brett

    I've just seen this thread, so I'm a little late to the party. Here is my 2c worth ...

    If you are working with a dry grinder, get an 8". The hollow of a 6" is deeper and this will reduce the support behind the blade's edge. Get a coarse wheel with a medium friability, such as a Norton white wheel of 38 grit. Use a light hand. This will run cool, especially if you use a cambered wheel. The wheel does not need to be wide. Indeed, a wide wheel in this set up is a disadvantage to freehand grinding.

    A half speed (1400 rpm) machine is best, but a good full speed (2800 rpm) machine will work nearly as well if your technique is up to it.

    Two features are important: wheel stability and the blade rest. On a good machine the wheels are usually already balanced and the machine will run vibration-free. Otherwise you need to balance the wheel. This is pretty easy. Ask and I shall tell you how. Takes a few minutes.

    There are three tool rests to consider - keeping in mind that just about anything that comes with a grinder is crap. Firstly, there are the heavy, solid cast iron or steel types, such as made by Wolverine. I almost purchased one (may still do so), but I am not sure if they are available in Oz. Lee Valley stock them.



    There is the aluminium rest by Veritas. The advantage is that they are inexpensive and easily available. the downside is that some find the aluminum too soft and steel inbeds in the platform. I never found this when I had one. However it is quite light weight.



    What I wound up with was the Tormek BGM-100 and Tool Rest. This combination offers the best of all worlds. It is set up on an 8" Carbatec half speed grinder (no longer available) than runs as smooth as a babies bum. It has a Norton white 46 grit on one side and Norton 3X 46 grit on the other side. (I do not recommend the 3X any longer. It is fantastic for beginners as it runs incredibly cool since it is so friable. But it is also incredibly messy!).



    Review here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...ngNirvana.html

    One of the reasons I have this set up is that I also have a Tormek wet grinder. This is a fantastic machine and I recommend it if you can afford one. It gets used 90% of the time.



    Why do I like the Tormek so much?

    I do not regrade the wheel on my Tormek. It is used as a grinder, not a sharpener. The 220 grit wheel is already much smoother than the grind off the average 8" dry grinder wheel, which is commonly 38 - 60 grit. Keep the wheel clean/dressed and it grinds quite quickly.

    The advantage of the Tormek as a grinder comes from its ability to create a straight hollow to the very edge of the blade. This is where its speed comes from - not the grinding, but its ability to speed up freehand sharpening. There is little to straighten up, and the micro bevel created on this primary is smaller than any dry grinder. There is absolutely no need to regrade the wheel to 1000 grit. It is faster (and more accurate) to use a 1000 waterstone as you sharpen. Indeed, with a tiny microbevel you can often jump the 1000 grit. Further, because the Tormek can reset the bevel angle very accurately, it is a simple matter to regrind the hollow when needed.

    The hollow off a 10" wheel is pretty shallow. This is the only grinder that I will recommend for Japanese laminated blades. I hollow grind mine on the Tormek. The cool grind is absolutely safe. The hollow is shallow - one will hone it away in a few sharpenings. (Can you tell I like this machine?).

    It is expensive as an outlay, but it should last a lifetime for most users. By contrast, the imitations have poor/plastic bearings, less powerful motors, cheaper accessories and fittings, and simply do not run as smoothly.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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