Thread: Any suggestions on Sharping tools ?

Hard to suggest what you could use to sharpen one of everything.
What I expect that you will learn is that much of the method, the technique, for one type of tool (chisel) has direct bearing on the process for another such as an axe.
Think of the bevel angle as a wedge which is splitting wood open. Big wedge (axe) takes more power than a fine wood carver's knife.
Dull can split the wood, sharp can cut the wood.

My standard practice with every tool that I buy is to measure the bevel angle, see what the factory thinking was.
Maybe a little fine tuning at that angle and try the edge in the wood which I intend to use.
As a rule, I don't shave my legs nor carve my fingers so those tests of faith are silly.

I have some chisels at 25 degrees, others at 30 degrees, my fine carving tools are either 20 or 12.
My plane is 30, my draw knife and adzes are 25, my spoke shaves are 28.
They all cut very well for what they are supposed to be doing.

The hard part is keeping them all sharp, even "carving sharp" without changing the bevel angle.
I can do it all freehand as I'm sharpening from my legs, not my arms.
My arms don't move = I am the jig.

The files are named according to their use. A Bastard is a course double cut (cut at 2 angles) to remove material quickly. A second cut file is cut two ways but is finer than your bastard. It is used for material removal but finer than the bastard. The mill file (also called smooth) is a single cut and for sharpening or finishing work and will produce a smoother surface. It is called a mill file since it was used for sharpening mill saws.

The problem with files is that they are not suitable for sharpening woodworking tools since they are a high carbon steel. You can certainly use files for things such as axes and garden tools since they are a low carbon steel but the woodworking tools are too hard.

For chisels and plane blades I use an 8" medium speed grinder (your regular bench grinder) with a white aluminium oxide wheel for re-establishing the primary bevel, then a 1000/6000 (or 1000/8000) stone for sharpening and then an optional leather strop with stropping compound (or diamond paste).

I bought a nice combi stone from Carbatech for about $40.

John

(Sorry for the delay in responding) Thanks for the feedback guys . Primarily at this stage, I'm wanting to sharpen a couple of axes. I don't really have any woodworking tools at this stage so I won't bother getting a sharpening kit for those.

Hard to suggest what you could use to sharpen one of everything.

I see what you mean. I might look at sharpening tools for axes (gardening) at this stage and leave the others for another day. I have a fair idea of the process of sharpening but I'm stuck on deciding what Grits I should be look at and which stones might be best to use.

My standard practice with every tool that I buy is to measure the bevel angle, see what the factory thinking was.

Is there a tool already available with the different angles pre-cut? or did you make you own ?

I saw a video (wranglestar) where he made one with a 20 and 25 degree cut, but if there's a tool available, might be better/more accurate than what I can make.

The files are named according to their use....

Thanks for the info Yanis , think I got the Bastard Double cut, but only really to use on axes (and other thicker tools). I won't use it on smaller knives/woodworking tools ... I'm look into getting proper stones for them.

I bought a nice combi stone from Carbatech for about $40.

Which one was that? What grits were they ? Do you use it on axes or mainly woodworking tools ?


Thanks again guys, much appreciate the feedback