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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Seattle, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,857

    Default Waterstone Slips?

    I've been slowly but surely making my way into the realm of profiled, bladed tools. Think carving tools and moulding planes.

    I've recently (last six months) purchased a fine India slipstone, and a couple of different hard, white Arkansas slipstones for cleaning up and polishing the inside of flutes and concave (hollow) blades.

    I'm pretty happy with the results, but I am definitely, without any doubt, not getting the same level of polish from the oilstones as I get from the waterstones. For example, on an out-cannel gouge I recently cleaned up, the bevel is like a mirror. Literally. No scratches, even under a hand lens. The flute, on the other hand, is somewhat polished, but under the hand lens it's obvious that it's inferior to the bevel.

    Today, someone looked at it and asked me why I didn't just use ceramic, waterstone slips to polish the inside of the bevel. He was under the impression that they were like flat waterstones when compared to oilstones: Fundamentally better in the eyes of many.

    I, on the other hand, have always felt like a profiled waterstone would very much be a consumable item. You catch it on the blade once and it's done for, or it slowly deforms from its profile. Basically, based on my experience with flat waterstones, I've always been under the impression that a waterstone slip simply would not work very well.

    So, as per the norm, I'm interested to hear if anyone has had much experience with profiled waterstones. Do they last? How do they polish compared to Arkansas stones? What do you do if you nick them (this seems like an inevitability)?

    Or otherwise just any feedback from anyone with more experience honing and polishing profiled blades than I have.

    Many thanks in advance.

    Cheers,
    Luke

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,821

    Default

    Hi Luke

    I don't like profiled waterstones. They tend to be too soft and wear quickly or gouge easily.

    My preference is simply fine abrasive paper glued to a wooden profiled edge, or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. You can get the profiled masters from Lee Valley, who also sell a range of diamond mesh sheets (a couple of grits is all that is needed).

    I have not tried, but have seen, Spyderco sell ceramic rods. These are the same hard items as the Spyderco stones I use. I would love to try one, but am wary from my experience with shaped waterstones.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    Back near the beginning, I imagined that I needed water slip stones for the dozen or more Pacific Northwest style crooked carving knife sweeps.
    Lee Valley 60M90.00. Tipped ever so slightly the wrong way and the shaped edge shredded and granulated. Sort of repaired with a file (end of file).
    The second pair of slips fared no better.

    Now, I have a coffee can full of a wide assortment of cylindrical mandrels. From worn out 3/16" chain saw files, some dowels and assorted pieces of pipe.
    Using those, I rarely need to work an edge with bigger than 800 grit automotive sand paper.. Then 1,000, then 1,500 grit.
    Then I hone with CrOx/AlOx on card stock, wrapped again around those mandrels.

    The honing compound seems to be essential to make an edge which carves well in soft western red cedar.
    I won't ever spend the money to fool with slip stones again. Even given away, I'd never miss them.

    I want to know the grit particle nominal size. Not some subjective judgement like "fine", "extra fine" or "Lizzie Borden's favorite" (axe murderer).

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