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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    22

    Default Another 12' SCMS recommendation

    Hi guys, I've read previous posts about 12' SCMS saws including if you don't want to spend the money but Swarf tool but I'm in a position to invest in a high end tool.... previously had the 909 305mm and once setup with a good blade worked fine although flipping from angle to angle wasn't a quick process if you wanted it spot on.

    Use: home renovations, broad skirts, framing, and fine woodworking. I've narrowed it down to three at the moment. DeWalt, the Milwaukee and the Bosch power slide. I really like the digital angle readout on the Milwaukee, paddle flap for the beval adjustment and work lights, DeWalt is everything I would expect from a saw but don't like the reach behind beval locking knob, I like the Bosch power glide, there is a stop for repeatable cuts and the front lock for beval cuts.

    The saw will be on a bench with casters in the workshop, as main use is at home.

    My question is regarding personal experience using these saws. What do you have? and would you buy it again? Why and whats your recommendation for me.

    Milwaukee has a 3 yr warranty, the rest have 1yr.

    I've left model numbers out cos I can't remember them but it's top of the line for all brands. Prices are within 150 of each other from Total Tools. Also if I wait for a month will bundles/discounts appear? Or when is the best time to buy?? Now/Xmas/NY as we are so close.

    Regards

    Aussie280 (Victoria)

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

    Default

    The Bosch is a great saw, accurate out of the box but it is damned heavy so keep that in mind. It also has a well deserved reputation for spraying dust everywhere while being used. I would buy the Bosch again as mine never leaves the bench so the weight is not a factor and a well designed dust hood tames down the mess.
    CHRIS

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    66

    Default

    Second the Bosch glide saw. That is the "hinge" one.

    I've had it for a few years now and has never let me down, very nice to use.

    Only downsides is the WEIGHT, absolute pain to move around but again mine stays at home the majority of the time. Dust extraction may as well be nil so I have plans to make a hood for it on a new stand.

    The only other saw I would consider (for furniture work) would be the festool

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    tasmania
    Age
    58
    Posts
    116

    Default

    I have the Dewalt 305mm and have been extremely happy with it. I use it on site for fitouts so it gets a lot of use and is still perfectly accurate after about 4 years use. I use this with a dust extractor which catches probably 60% of the dust.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Hi guys,

    Thanks for your comments I've also asked a few contractors/tradies locally and funny that not one recommend the Milwaukee. All my 18v (20v) power tools are Dewalt and that would also be the safe bet here but I think I will go for the Bosch....I like the arm design and checking youtube connecting it with the shopvac and extend the rubber dust collector on the saw pretty much fixes the dust issue. Although it will always remain in the workshop due to the weight. Just waiting for the Xmas specials ...price stays the same but get bonus saw stand for free.

    Aussie280

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    55

    Default

    I too are in the market to upgraded from my Bosch GCM 10 which has been great but wanting the extra cut i am edging towards the Metabo KGS315. Like Aussie280 awaiting for Christmas

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    45
    Posts
    101

    Default

    I just bought the Bosch GCM12GDL glide, and have sent it back with a request for a refund or replacement. I'm waiting for a response from Bosch.

    There were a couple of quality control issues, that could be fixed easily, but the thing that really annoyed me was the detent plate is not within 0.1 degrees at the 45degree detents - in my view a $1,000 plus saw should be capable of repeatable cuts within 0.05 degrees. With the 0 degree detent aligned with the blade, both 45 degree detents are significantly out, and there is no way to adjust them independently. The detent system is substantially the same as the system used on the other brands, but after realising that there was no way to adjust the detents idependently, I went and measured the other 12" sliding compound mitre saws in a couple of stores to see how common this problem is. My findings are as follows:
    1. The milwaukee MS305DB ranged from almost perfect (<0.05) to 0.25 degrees out.
    2. The Dewalt DWS780xe was consistent but was between 0.05 degrees and 0.2 degrees out;
    3. The Makita LS1216 was horrible, with looking at 3 saws, none of the fences (left and right) were aligned, and the detents were between 0.1 and 0.5 degrees out.
    4. The Hitachi C12SH was the best with consistent angle variations of less than 0.1 degrees - it also has the digital readout, so you don't have to guess, but I don't know what the accuracy of this is.

    While having a look, I also checked the 10" Metabo KGS254 in two stores, and it was good, both 45 degree detents were within 0.05 degrees.

    After I get a response from Bosch I'll do a full write up. I'd be interested to know what other people's experiences have been with the Bosch and getting accurate mitre cuts.

    I hope that helps.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    45
    Posts
    101

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SPF View Post
    I just bought the Bosch GCM12GDL glide, and have sent it back with a request for a refund or replacement. I'm waiting for a response from Bosch.

    There were a couple of quality control issues, that could be fixed easily, but the thing that really annoyed me was the detent plate is not within 0.1 degrees at the 45degree detents - in my view a $1,000 plus saw should be capable of repeatable cuts within 0.05 degrees. With the 0 degree detent aligned with the blade, both 45 degree detents are significantly out, and there is no way to adjust them independently. The detent system is substantially the same as the system used on the other brands, but after realising that there was no way to adjust the detents idependently, I went and measured the other 12" sliding compound mitre saws in a couple of stores to see how common this problem is. My findings are as follows:
    1. The milwaukee MS305DB ranged from almost perfect (<0.05) to 0.25 degrees out.
    2. The Dewalt DWS780xe was consistent but was between 0.05 degrees and 0.2 degrees out;
    3. The Makita LS1216 was horrible, with looking at 3 saws, none of the fences (left and right) were aligned, and the detents were between 0.1 and 0.5 degrees out.
    4. The Hitachi C12SH was the best with consistent angle variations of less than 0.1 degrees - it also has the digital readout, so you don't have to guess, but I don't know what the accuracy of this is.

    While having a look, I also checked the 10" Metabo KGS254 in two stores, and it was good, both 45 degree detents were within 0.05 degrees.

    After I get a response from Bosch I'll do a full write up. I'd be interested to know what other people's experiences have been with the Bosch and getting accurate mitre cuts.

    I hope that helps.
    Update - I got the saw back today - no replacement. All the issues have been repaired, but the mitre detents are still out 0.05 one side, and between 0.05 and 0.1 on the other. Looks like I'll have to set up a jig to set the mitre to get a good cut.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    SPF, how are you measuring the angles?
    CHRIS

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
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    45
    Posts
    101

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    SPF, how are you measuring the angles?
    Chris,
    Initially with a digital protractor, but these have their own inaccuracies, so are only indicative. Then I cut a piece of timber that has been ripped on the table saw (and checked with a straight edge) at the relevant mitre angle. I form a mitre joint with the two pieces (which doubles the inaccuracy value of the cut) which are just over a meter long and lie the timber on a board and scribe a line from a known base line, and compare to a known perpendicular line. The gap between the timber and the known perpendicular line is measured (at the 1 meter mark on, and perpendicular to, the known datum) and I then calculate the angle from that.

    I regularly check the board with an engineers square and a straight edge.

    My digital protractor is usually within 0.05 of that angle, but it does vary.



  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    I have just spent a few days checking a machine with a "good" straight edge and it turns out that it has about a four thou valley in the middle of it.
    CHRIS

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    45
    Posts
    101

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    I have just spent a few days checking a machine with a "good" straight edge and it turns out that it has about a four thou valley in the middle of it.
    yeah, I bet that made you happy.

    Unless you have a good cast iron table to check it on, that is really hard to check quickly. the best way i have found is to put your straight edge on a vertical steel plate (like the side of your fridge) and clamp it down with magnets. Use a fine fluoro fishing line stretched tight (loaded to 80% of its rating) vertically between two points and push the straight edge up to it. If there is a visible gap then you know it is out. If not, put a piece of paper in between the straight edge and the fishing line so it is clamped between them, then move the paper along the length of the straight edge and see if it stays clamped between them all the way along (starting and finishing at about 30mm from the end), if not you have a valley. Make sure you shim the fishing line so it is not touching the steel plate along its length. Reflex 80 gsm copy paper is about 0.1mm thick, and baking paper is about 0.05mm thick ;-)

    It is more difficult to test for a convex face. While not perfect, I use a very sharp scribe and just scribe a line, and then flip the straight edge and see if the line disappears or is obstructed in the middle. I use a piece of galvanised sheet sanded smooth to scribe onto, as you get a nice deep line without much pressure, and you don't have to worry about grain or pattern affecting your results.

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