Thread: Which brand of Compound Sliding Saw

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Same here. I paid $49 for it, just the basic MS, and will upgrade the first time it is not going to be sufficient for what I want to do. Capacity aside, I am puzzled as to the meaning of "precision". Isn't it something that depends on how well you set it? The problem I have found with this machine, for example, is that the blade is 1.5 degrees out of square with the fence so I have to compensate for it when setting angles. The result IMO is as good as any but I freely admit being an amateur who does not know any better. Is this what is meant by "precision"? If this is it, I do not see it as a big deal justifying big $$$ differences. Or is there more to it?

on a std mitre cut, there maybe a consistant 1.5 degree error due to the fence, however is it is due to the rotation then it is a variable error, it gets worse with compound cuts, as againd the error tends to be a % error (try applying %'s to degrees in your head).

A slider also has to move in 3 planes perfectly - the down angle set has to equal the side angle set, while both dropping and sliding backwards.

and yep, i've used a gmc slider and an LS, and rarely is the difference in newish tools so immediately apparent as between those 2

Thanks for your answer, pharmaboy. I seem to understand that you also think that a constant error is not a big deal, a proportional one is.
Apart the considerations about sliding, not applying in my case, could you please explain what makes "the difference in newish tools so immediately apparent"? Thanks.

Hi NW
I picked up a Makita LS1214 the same as the shiney new one in Cliffs photo on ebay for $500 great condition. They never die, you can't go wrong.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Thanks for your answer, pharmaboy. I seem to understand that you also think that a constant error is not a big deal, a proportional one is.
Apart the considerations about sliding, not applying in my case, could you please explain what makes "the difference in newish tools so immediately apparent"? Thanks.

"newish" means there's no point in comparing a yr old trdae use makita with a yr old gmc - the gmc bushes will be wearing etc - tha gmc will be stuffed, which is why the sliders arent generally bought by tradesmen - except in an emergency while the main unit is off the road so to speak.

a makita would be less than half as loud new compared to the gmc, when you start downwards pressure on the makita there is no resistance at all - on the gmc you can feel the guard catching for instance, when you release the gmc rattles its plastic bits, the makita stays silent, the makita has a blade brake, the gmc spins for many seconds - the slide mechanism is smooth and certain versus more catchy, you must cut appreciably slower with the gmc, and lastly the dust extraction is better on the makita - ie it goes backwards (something you appreciate if cutting masonite like weathertex - look like a yorkshire miner after cutting those things). oh nealry forgot - the guard is an absolute PITA - doesnt start coming down immediately - so if the timber sits just under the guard at the start, the gmc wont cut it, but a makita the guiard doesnt come down at all before the blade does.

I'd suggest my father with no power tool experience at all, could tell the difference between the 2 after using it for 2 cuts only - that doesnt mean the gmc is ineffective - does the job as well as a hyundai - its just, well, a hyundai.... ;D

Thats an absolute comparison - for most home users I'd suggest the value proposition is the gmc type stuff - but because its better value for a home user doesnt take away that its clearly an inferior tool.

Someone said Kapex, stop sayin that I want one!
Im waiting for my mak to die too buy a kapex... 10yrs just wont die bloody mak quality

[quote=pharmaboy2;
Thats an absolute comparison ....[/quote]

Thanks, your description of how the GMC works is spot on. Now, I do know better.

No mention of Dewalt SCMS 's

I must admit Im not 100% happy with mine its a DW701.

When I tilt the saw to cut skirting etc at 45 degrees sometimes if Im not observant it catches on the adjuster at the back and cuts at about 41 degrees (very annoying)

Also when I tilt the saw to 25 degrees to cut nosings, cappings etc it cuts out of square. As the guide hits the timber it pushes the blade out of square.

Not happy

Makita 1214 - Fantastic
Have had mine for about 3 yrs and when building boats you can't ask for better accuracy and cut quality...... for info I don't think there is a square cut in a wooden boat..... learnt lots about compound mitres and thank heavens I had the machine to do it with !



Just starting on my next one... this time 18' x 7' 11"

Makita LS1214 all the way.
I don't know about the blue vortex catcher on the back. It certainly fills with dust but not to the same claims as the brochure but that doesn't bother me. I love the thing. Accurate all the time. The sliding mechanism was essential for me to do trenching more accurately and smoothly. And it cuts large section timber which is perfect for pergola and verandah fascias.

Did I say I love it?

Cheers,
Dr - 307.

P.S. The brake is fantastic too.

I just went through the same agonising decision myself, and i must say thanks to all those involved with this forum for their assistance (albeit indirect). I have finally decided to sign up as a member because of all the great info here.
Anyway, enough about my personal history, i just purchased a Hitachi C12RSH- got it from the Tradies Expo in Brisbane, for $850, with a free Hitachi 1/2" router valued at 300 odd $. Looked hard at the Makita, Bosch and the Dewalt, but couldn't justify the price (near or over $1000). Hitachi works great out of the box- only fidling with a heated dog bed at the moment, but with a new kitchen coming soon, its gonna come in handy. Laser is funky too.
Not a bad tool for a sparky...