Thread: Carba-Tec Shopping Spree

Then the thicknesser is used to dimension the piece to the right ... width

I would change that to "the thicknesser may be used to dimension the piece to the right width". An alternative is to rip to width and then joint the other edge. You don't need a thicknesser to dimension to width.

Originally Posted by silentC

Mark the dimensions on the edge of the board and plane to them. I didn't say I would do it, I did say it would be dodgy, but you could do it.

So you have never done it but you are so convinced that it will work?

I have done things like it, so yes I am convinced enough that it would work. But I have a thicknesser.

If you have a board that is twisted, how do you flatten it on a jointer?

OK show us how to cut this board (to the red line) on a jointer.

I can see it done with a hand plane!!

Originally Posted by silentC

If you have a board that is twisted, how do you flatten it on a jointer?

Easy, I will show you next time you come to my shop.

Which way does the grain run?

Originally Posted by Wongo

Easy, I will show you next time you come to my shop.

I'm not saying you can't do it, I'm saying that the technique would be similar.

Answer my question Silent.

Just my 2 bits worth:

I am considering this question at the moment, and while I would like both, budget won't wear it.

I have seen an alternative done very effectively, however.

Sled (mdf/melamine) made up allowing board to be clamped flat, but below the top surface. Any twist or lengthways cup chocked with wedges. Pass sled through thicknesser, taking light cuts until 1 face flat, (and parallel with sled surface). Remove from sled and thickness as normal.

Not great for high volume, but will work for me.

Edges more of a problem, but darkside methods work OK here.

Originally Posted by silentC

Which way does the grain run?

Nevermind, I'm too impatient.

OK, if the grain runs right to left in your picture, I would start the jointer, then sit the thin end of the board on the outfeed table and push through. I would repeat this until I had a flat spot on the thick end that is parallel to the red line, then plane away until all the waste is removed.

If the grain runs front to back, I would cut a thin strip equal in thickness to the difference between the two edges and clamp it to the infeed table. I would rest the board on this, set the jointer for a good deep cut and then run it through. This would give me a flat spot parallel to the red line against which to register subsequent cuts.

If it was just slightly out of parallel, I would freehand it.

Did I say that the board is 20cm wide?

Originally Posted by Poppa

Edit - Mr Wongo, you can get two surfaces parallel on a jointer. I've done it. You joint a face, then joint the edge square to the face, then joint the second face square to the edge. If both faces are square to the edge then the two faces must (and I mean mathematically MUST) be parallel.

Nope - square-to-square-to-square does not necessarily equal parallel.

Easier to flatten one side, mark up the edges of the opposite side using a gauge and carefully plane or joint to the marked lines.

G'day Benniee, I've only been taking my woodwork serious now for a few years so I tend to ask a lot of questions and read books and pester a fella that I work with who is a chippy by trade. I have watched a lot of the New Yankee Workshop trying to learn the right way to do things (haven't seen Norm for a while though since giving foxtel the flick )
But I'm sure he used to pass an edge over the jointer first to give himself a straight edge and then he would use the table saw to rip the opposite side to the desired size keeping the dressed edge against the fence.

I was incredibly lucky in that a friend of mine knew an old chap who was going into an aged care facility and wanted all of his tools to go to someone that would appreciate them. I picked up a Table saw, thicknesser, jointer, Leigh D4 with assorted templates and a heap of other odds and sods all for $750, hence the reason I'm trying to get more serious and skilled at what I can do.
In order to know how to use them all properly I'm going to do some classes and be taught properly.
I don't know what your skill level is but maybe if you were to do something similar (with the classes that is) you might then know for sure what it is that you really need to suit what you want to do.
The people on here are an enormous help but I've always found the best way to learn anything is to be hands on.
Sorry to hear about your bad luck but I hope that your new toys bring you a lot of enjoyment.
Cheers
Max