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  1. #61
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    I never thought it would happen but you guys are actually better at confusing me than my better half is when we start having a D&M

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  3. #62
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    Nov 2003
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    Sydney
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    You joint a face, then joint the edge square to the face, then joint the second face square to the edge. If both faces are square to the edge then the two faces must (and I mean mathematically MUST) be parallel.
    Plane A is square to Plane B
    Plane B is square to Plane C

    Plane C is not parallel to Plane A



    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Pambula
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    58
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    Only here would you find two people willing to argue about something that neither of them ever intends to do.

    Makes me proud...

  5. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentC View Post
    Only here would you find two people willing to argue about something that neither of them ever intends to do.

    Makes me proud...
    I disagree no I mean I agree.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Behind that little door under the thicknesser...
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    644

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    Quote Originally Posted by silentC View Post
    Only here would you find two people willing to argue about something that neither of them ever intends to do.
    ...and after five pages of entertaining but off topic discussion that appears to get absolutely no-where.........not be flaming each other down to ashes.

    I tips me lid.

    Now what the hell were you two talking about
    Ours is not to reason why.....only to point and giggle.

  7. #66
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    523

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    Is it Friday already?

  8. #67
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    Nov 2003
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    It wasn’t off the topic at all.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  9. #68
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    Aug 2003
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    Wodonga
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    59
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    707

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    My Question, if the board has a 1" bow in it and is 35mm thick timber, and you take the bow out of it, wouldn't you end up with a piece of timber 10mm thick?

    How would this be any good to you if you need a piece 35mm thick?

    Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

  10. #69
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    Aug 2003
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    How would this be any good to you if you need a piece 35mm thick?
    It would be of no use, so you would have to keep looking through your stack for something a bit straighter.

    You have a couple of choices - you either end up with a very long, very thin board, or short thicker ones. What I tend to do is cut to the length required first and then plane it flat. You lose less that way. But if you need a longer length, then it has to be done. I'm usually working with 50mm boards, so 35mm is achievable, depending on the length I need.

  11. #70
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    Nov 2003
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    Geoff, you should get a board 22mm thick and slightly shorter than its original length.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  12. #71
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    May 2004
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    523

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Geoff, you should get a 22mm thick and slightly shorter than its original length.
    "You need to think harder my friend."

  13. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisp View Post
    "You need to think harder my friend."

    Good one.

    C'mon show me.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  14. #73
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    May 2004
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Good one.

    C'mon show me.
    Am I missing something? - how much is "slightly shorter"?

  15. #74
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    Nov 2003
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    I could be wrong here but I would cut the wood in method 2.

    Or maybe I did not understand Geoff's question.

    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  16. #75
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    May 2004
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Or maybe I did not understand Geoff's question.
    I wouldn't let the question get in the way of a good answer.

    I like the drawings - and your answer.

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