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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Canberra
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    414

    Thumbs down Carba-tec tenoning jig

    I got a Carba-tec tablesaw tenoning jig today. It really seems to be a very poorly engineered device, but I thought maybe others who have bought one can tell me what they think.

    My problem with it is that it cannot be adjusted parallel to the sawblade along the mitre track axis. It is so out of whack that when I wind it in so that the clamping face just touches the saw teeth on the exit side of the blade, there is a whopping 5mm gap at the entrance side. (Perhaps I bought a special model made for tenoning chair legs?) There seems to be no way to positively adjust the sliding platform against the chassis in order to true the error. Sure, maybe I could take it off the table, disassemble it, re-align the mitre track, reassemble it, judge the play on the guide bar and tighten it, mount the thing, check the error ... over and over again for a week or two. But since the adjustment screw is purposely set off-centre and has a (wobbly and inadequately seated) guide bar only to one side, along with copious play in the screw collar, it racks something awful depending if you are winding it in or out - so that 5mm error I talk about is not a constant error. My impression is that this is a truly appalling and completely useless piece of equipment, from its design through to its manufacture. A short Saxon word does come to mind.

    So, before I go down and axe it through the Carbatec cash register , what do others have to say? If the consensus is that the Carbatec version is indeed total shjte from keel to truck, can someone suggest a real tablesaw tenoning jig? I'd appreciate the feedback.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Elimbah, QLD
    Posts
    3,336

    Default

    Gunnaduit,

    I suggest you get a refund and make your own micro-adjustable tenoning jig for about $20. See http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...e+tenoning+jig .
    If you PM me your e-mail address, I will send you the plans.

    Rocker

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Morphett Vale, SA
    Age
    56
    Posts
    348

    Default

    Take it back & ask (tell) them to set it up on one of their floor stock saws, see if they can't work it out. Then get your money back & buy the gear required to build Rocker's tenoning jig (do a search for this).

    Reg
    (BTW I have a jig like yours but haven't used it in anger yet, only for half laps)

    Edit, Rocker beat me to it

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    414

    Default

    Rocker, yeah right ... had a look at your link and the mdf type you made up --- looks like it will do the job although not as 'swish' as the cast iron type promised to be. I saw another home-type design in Ian Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" but yours seems more to-the-point.

    Looks like I'll have to take the hunk o' junk back and see if the shop staff are a little more successful with setting it up. I still can't see how the design of it can be satisfactory although the vagaries of mass production might mean the occasional purchaser, at random, gets one that works straight from the box.

    Anyone else got a comment?

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,494

    Default

    Hi Gunnaduit!

    I too bought one of those, looked at it closely, put it on a shelf for a few months then sold it.

    I made my own, far more effective, jig quite easily, and it works very well for the few times that I need to make a series of tenons. If it's only a few, I'll just hand cut them.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    414

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

    If it's only a few, I'll just hand cut them.
    That's ok if you're a black-belt in dozuki, but you know, as a relative neophyte I'd been keen on the cold mechanical efficiency of screw micro-adjustment

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    East Bentleigh, Melbourne, Vic
    Age
    68
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    4,494

    Default

    Just a little practice mate - and use a tenon saw rather than a back saw (a la japanese saws). It can be very satisfying. After all, hobbyist woodies are mostly into the craft of woodworking than the more industrial production processes; at least I am...

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Turramurra, NSW
    Posts
    2,267

    Default

    Take the thing back and have a bit of fun with the counter hoppers.

    Seriously, making your own is not brain science. If Rocky sends you his plans, it's even easier.

    About 30 minutes, I'd estimate.
    Bodgy
    "Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    5

    Wink Mine seems ok

    Hi Gunnaduit,

    I have the same Carbatec tenoning Jig. Mine seems to work fine.
    I've used it on a lot of tenons over the last couple of months and they have all turned out really well.

    Thats not to say the jig is perfect - the instruction were woeful. Two months (and dozens of tenons) later they still don't make any sense.

    I'd definitely be heading back to Carbatec for an exchange (or refund).

    -Cal

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    11,997

    Default

    I have the same thing but from Leda. The only problem I had was "zeroing" it to the blade - I couldn't get close enough. What I ended up doing was attaching a piece of mdf as a sacrificial face, now it is very useful.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Melbourne S.E Burbs
    Posts
    476

    Default

    Hi Gunnaduit,

    I've got one of these, didn't have any problems with it being parallel, but did have problems with it not being snug it the t-slot of the mitre track. I took it apart, and got a mate with a milling machine to take about 1.5 mm off the bar's bearing surface where the circular bushes (that engage the t-slot) rest against. Problem solved now I'm pretty happy with it.

    Yours sounds like a dud though, I'd take it back and either leave with a demonstrably good one, or a refund.

    Cheers,


    Justin.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Port Pirie SA
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,908

    Default

    Yep sounds like it was made on a friday arvo.

    I'd be lost without mine...
    ....................................................................

  14. #13
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    63
    Posts
    1,291

    Default

    To adjust jig to be parrallel to saw blade you loosen the screws that hold the guide rod onto the base, place jig in mitre slot, loosen main lock handle and make adjustment, tighten handle and then remove jig from slot and tighten guide rod screws.

    The guide rod screws are located under the base at one end perpendicular to the mitre slot bar.

    Send me a pm with a fax number and I can fax the relevant page from the Jet manual. (unfortunately it does not seem to be on their website anymore)

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Sydney
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    53
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    8,879

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    That why I always buy JET. Same price and mine works fine.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
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