Thread: Changing Triton mitre guide

You have a fundamental problem.
A tin tabletop.
The Triton I great for what it is but once you get past a certain point any further efforts are pointless.

Standard mitre guide accessories rely on a cast type tabletop for thier stability & fit.

Any attempt to fit this type of guide to a trition amounts IMHO to polishing. (you cant polish a )

Either find a triton style work around or make a jig.
Or time to upgrade to a cast top bench like the delta or jet.

If you can afford a good quality tennoning jig you need to afford a cast top bench first.

Trust me you won't regret the move.

Thanks Soundman

I appreciate your advice. I haven't had the Triron all that long but I am keen to get as much out of it as I can.

I will look into making some jigs for it and see how I go.

I have had some problems with "wobble" in the mitre guide and until I am comfortable with that, making jigs would seem a bit pointless as this error would probably be transferred to them also.

Thanks again

Ash


[This message has been edited by AshleyM (edited 13 November 2002).]

The wobble in the mitre guide can be improved with carefull application of a hammer.

Seriously.

Its a Triton.

Hi Ash
Look in Triton section 21 oct Acurate mitres, 2x holes & a small piece of h/wood makes heaps of difference, since found out though if table pushed from side of tabletop it will move top slightly out of whack so it always pays to do test cut first.
Hope this helps.

Neal

Hi Neal
Thanks for the reply. Could you explain a bit more for me. I am having trouble picturing exactly what you mean. Please feel free to email me direct and include some diagrams if you wish.

I will look forward to your reply.

Regards

Ash

If you get the more detailed explanation and diagrams can you forward them to me. I am about to give the old mitre joint a big flick because I have not been able to make them accurately enough, so that they don't look like they were made in the local mad house. I have got me so frustrated on the od occasion that I have taken to the sub-standard joints with a full bore knockomiter (sledge hammer).

Ashley would not have a clue if you got emails i got error messages twice & next time didnt put in attachment let me know if no good.

When I was a Triton owner (of both a MK3 and a 2000), I found that my best mitres were done using the saw in overhead crosscut mode. I'd use an extension fence off the mitre guide, with a 45 degree stop block, and clamp the lot down against the table to prevent movement. Pain in the ass to set up, but the results were worth it. Using the mitre guide in table saw mode just has too much wobble.....

Justin.

Hi Neal

I have received your emails and sent you one direct to you. Thanks again.

Regards

Ash

Hi Justin

Thanks for your reply. I can see what you mean. The guides for the saw in crosscut mode allow very little movement compared to the mitre guide in table saw mode.

It's really only 90 degree cuts I am trying to do accurately so your suggestion would have even more merit in this situation.

I will give Neals suggestion a go as this negates the need to keep changing over modes all the time.

Thanks again.

Ashley