Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    366

    Default CIG Little Beaver spray unit

    Good day people,

    my question is not exactly related to woodworking but I need some advise;

    I am attempting to do some touch up spray painting on my car's bonnet and sides after sanding back the gloss with wet & dry paper to remove hail damage caused by the "once in a hundred years storm" we had in Melbourne and I intend to use the little beaver spray outfit.

    Has anyone used this unit for spray painting a car with good results or should I invest in an airless spray gun? If so what type?

    I am aware that an air gun coupled to a compressor is the way to go but for a small job and one time usage the capital outlay is far too steep for me. I've searched the archives for spraying equipment, and the advise was good (as always) but it related to spraying furniture.

    All help welcome; thanks in advance....Evan

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Australia and France
    Posts
    8,175

    Default Little Beaver

    Evan,

    I resprayed a car in the early '70's using a brand new "little beaver", which was really a vacuum cleaner running in reverse.

    The result was acceptable at the time, a bit like an anti-skid finish on a boat really.

    It can be done, but you need to get everything just right.

    Have you enquired about hiring some equipment? If you do, pull the gun apart before you start to make sure that everything is perfectly clean.

    My experience has been that you can get an acceptable finish with any equipment if you are patient enough, spend a bit of time fiddling and are prepared to do it over till you get it right!

    At the end of the day, it's only paint; if you can't get it right, sand it off and start again.

    cheers

    P

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    lower eyre peninsular
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,577

    Default

    2 options 1 hire a compressor spray gun
    2 find a crash repairer chech out staff who spray
    a slab of VB for some weekend work you should be
    there Ive done it and great work

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Evan

    Forget it!

    An airless spray gun will not give you an acceptable finish. They are very hit-and-miss, and you will end up with runs all over the place. Don't ask me how I know.

    Having said that, if you really want to do it yourself (not advised) on the cheap, you would probably get better results from an aerosol can. Either get ready-matched cans from an auto shop, or have paint mixed for you and purchase refillable aerosols (I forget the name now, but they are readily available from most auto shops. I have a few in my garage, so will look if you want this info). If you go down this route you must use VERY light coats and rub back between them with 1500 grit W & D (add a little liquid soap to the water). Be patient - this method is very slow because the coats are thin (which is where a compressor plus spray gun really scores). But it is possible to get a very passable result this way.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    366

    Default

    Thanks for your responses people.

    I took my chances and used the little beaver and it worked out well surprisingly. The finish came up glassy smooth with very light over-runs which I can sand back with 1500 wet and dry paper and then cut & polish.

    Hopefully the paint will stay on and not peel or crack in a years time.

    Initially I used the small PREVAL spray unit (needed a truck load of them) but the results were inconsistant; there were too many dull areas. Using the beaver did take a lot of patience to get a consistant result and the gun had to be squeaky clean.

    Man those thinners are deadly; I'm still high as a kite.

    Thanks again for your responses.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Evan

    I am VERY impressed. Truly did not think it could be done without considerable repair work.

    Well done.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    366

    Default

    Good day Derek,

    in my previous post I mentioned that the finish came up glossy smooth but when I looked at the finsh with some side lighting, there were heaps of undulations like a ripple effect. This was probably due to the paint requiring more thinning. I was advised that the dilution ratio is 1 part paint to 1.5 parts thinners. Next time I'll try 1 to 2.

    At that stage things started to get on my nerves and I started walking around in circles thinking should I hire a compressor and start all over again or take the bonnet to a spray painter and get the job done right and be over with it.

    But then it dawned on me (moment of clarity) to try out something else; I pulled out the trusty Festo Rotex (just love this little engineering masterpiece) and stuck on a 1500 grit W & D sanding disk, sprayed some water on the surface and in finishing mode on a medium rev setting proceeded to sand away the ripple effect.

    The whole process took almost 2 hours (you have be very patient and careful not to go down to bare metal) then wiped the surface dry to see that the undulations disappeared. When the paint surface was free of the ripple effect I began to cut and polish with a lambswool buffer using the same settings which took about an hour and half to complete. The results were surprising and I decided to go one step further which may come across as a little strange to some but I thought what the heck it's only a bonnet.

    After the cut and polish I "cut back" again very briskly with Tormek honing compound for chisels and plane blades believe it or not and the finish was sooooooooh shiny and smooth you could see yourself. It was very time consuming but the end result was worth it after I rubbed in NU Shine, the product that is advertised on TV as a once a year car polish.

    So I've learnt something new and if it wasn't for the Festo I'd be up the creek with no paddle; thank god for the rotex - it's worth it's weight in gold.

    Cheers,
    Evan

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    Evan

    Yes, your description of the repair process sounds right. The paint is so thick that if you sand enough you will eventually flatten it off and be left with a good finish. I've done this in the past without a Rotex (when I was a young and poor uni student).

    The undulations in the paint were due to the paint being sprayed too thickly - the Little Beaver does not spray finely and evenly enough for a flat finish.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •