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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
    Age
    71
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    1,301

    Default Do a comparison

    Take it back to the supplier, but look at another saw of the same model to compare your baseplate before trying to return your saw.
    Would love to see a close-up photo of your baseplate.
    I can't imagine a manufacturer having such a rough surface, unless there is a removable film for protection during shipping that hasn't been removed.

    Alan...

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Cooroibah, Queensland
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Last Dog View Post
    Hi Nordo, Apologies to state the obvious but is the blade the right way round? If yes you may have to go the sandpaper route if you are unable to return it?
    Definitely the right way round.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Cooroibah, Queensland
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Al View Post
    Take it back to the supplier, but look at another saw of the same model to compare your baseplate before trying to return your saw.
    Would love to see a close-up photo of your baseplate.
    I can't imagine a manufacturer having such a rough surface, unless there is a removable film for protection during shipping that hasn't been removed.

    Alan...
    Hi Alan.
    I'll post a photo tomorrow.
    I'll have a look at the base plates when I'm next in town.
    If they are similar, I will definitely say something as the Renegade is exclusive to Trade Tools (their own label).

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Cooroibah, Queensland
    Posts
    30

    Default

    OK. I have added some photos of the base of my new Renegade saw.
    I don't know how easy it will be to see the damage, but if you run your fingers over the surface, you can really feel the rough metal grabbing your fingers.

    Saw01.jpgSaw02.jpgSaw03.jpgSaw04.jpg

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    3,260

    Default

    I'd be very tempted to take that back with a "Is this normal????" question.

    (If I had an old saw base like that, I'd just draw file it then give it a quick sanding)

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    I agree. Try taking it back and point out the rough base as the problem. There is an obvious ragged edge at that screw hole.
    Last resort is sand it yourself then apply some wax.
    Hope things work out.
    Regards
    John

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Cooroibah, Queensland
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Cheers guys.

    I'll take it back tomorrow and see how I go.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leopold, Victoria
    Age
    65
    Posts
    4,677

    Default

    I see that Trade Tools also have an 1100W version of your saw with a 40 tooth blade as standard and a steel base plate. Maybe that would be a better option for you should you not have any joy with your base plate problem tomorrow.
    https://www.tradetools.com/product-r...ular-saw-190mm

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Cooroibah, Queensland
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    I see that Trade Tools also have an 1100W version of your saw with a 40 tooth blade as standard and a steel base plate. Maybe that would be a better option for you should you not have any joy with your base plate problem tomorrow.
    https://www.tradetools.com/product-r...ular-saw-190mm
    Cheers
    I'll keep that in mind.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Cooroibah, Queensland
    Posts
    30

    Default

    My local Trade Tools were closed over Christmas and re-opened yesterday.
    I took my saw in. They were surprisingly helpful.

    The guy looked at my base plate, then had a look at the base plate of a display model.
    The display model, which I assumed had never been used, HAD THE SAME ROUGH SURFACE!!!!!!

    He then took back my Renegade and offered me a 185mm Makita 5740NBSP if I paid the $21 gap.
    Not my preferred saw, but as I only intend to be cutting 12mm pine ply or similar, I accepted.
    It definitely has the alloy base plate that I wanted, for use against long saw guides, etc.
    It has a 1050w motor, which should be enough for what I want.
    The main problem is that the motor overhang is only 8 mm above the bottom of the base plate. So I will have to make the guide out of fairly thin material (say 6mm).

    Thanks again for all the help and advice.

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Melbourne S.E Burbs
    Posts
    476

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nordo View Post
    The main problem is that the motor overhang is only 8 mm above the bottom of the base plate. So I will have to make the guide out of fairly thin material (say 6mm)
    Just adjust the blade height up a bit and the motor will easily clear your jig/s

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    2,947

    Default

    As you are cutting ply etc I would reduce the depth of the blade through what you are cutting. This will easily allow the guide to fit. The theory is that less depth means a shallower angle of teeth cutting which means less tear out. There are other schools of thought which say to always cut full depth. Use whatever works best for you.

    Further on reducing ply tear out, use good quality masking tape and cut through that or score your line first with a Stanley knife to cut through the top fibres. Bear in mind that most blades are 2.8 to 3 mm thick so score on the edge closest to your guide.

    Let us know how you get on.
    Regards,
    Bob

    Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Cooroibah, Queensland
    Posts
    30

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Justin View Post
    Just adjust the blade height up a bit and the motor will easily clear your jig/s
    Of course. How stupid am I!!

    I would normally only have the tips of the teeth penetrate through the timber only about 2mm.
    Also I'll be taking Bob38S's advice on board.

    Thanks again.

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