Thread: Circular saw blade brands

Read about different saw blade grind types, like ATB etc (e.g. first google link found Saw Tip Angles Explained). Ideally you would have separate blades for different cuts: crosscut, rip cut and for cutting sheet materials. There are universal blades, which mean that you can cut most things with them, but they do not make as nice cuts as a specialized blade. And certainly large number of teeth is not always better cutting. For rip cuts you need relatively low tooth count. Check out Freud range on amazon, quite competitive prices and excellent quality.

Originally Posted by DaveVman

What is the difference between the brands for circular saw?
I still have the std blade that came with my corded circular saw. It's only 235mm but it's pretty grunty with a large foot. Slight wobble after 5+ years of light use.

I don't have a real table saw - just a Triton work centre. I don't want to invest much more on the workcentre but I don't have the coin to buy a table saw yet. I am trying to decide if it worth upgrading the blade to an 80 tooth blade in the circular saw.
Even if I didn't have the work center I would still use this circular saw to rip panel products to size. So perhaps a new blade with a lot of teeth would be nice anyway.(Although it would make ripping slower, I am in no hurry).

My options for my 235mm blade 25 mm arbour 80 teeth seem to be:
Bosch $53
Irwin $80
Austsaw $89

I expect the Bosch 80T would be a fair improvement on the existing blade. Are the other brands really that much better?

My 2c (having had a workcentre and table saw)

Sell the workcentre. You will get some good $$ for it.

Then buy a new Makita 235mm 2000 watt circular saw with a new blade and zero arbor float for $265.

Then build a new table saw out of ply and MDF using the saw - both to build and to power. Youtube has heaps of these builds.

Seriously, a properly built home table saw is cheaper than a workcentre and much much better.

Build an insulated cabinet for it, add in dust port at the bottom. Sweet.

Sadly I know nothing about which blade...


(NB Before anyone thinks I am bagging the triton I am just saying that instead of buying a new blade you could use the capital in the workcentre to fund a new blade AND a better tablesaw)

Hi Dave,
An 80 tooth will give you a better result on on melamine and veneered board full stop,
but due to the fact that you are taking the tool to the board rather than the other way round, you wont get a jointing quality cut in either.
Track saws are the exception to this.
All the blades you mentioned are OK ,but they are all kind of mid range.
A high end blade of that size will set you back considerably more, and in the right tool( table saw or track saw), will give a much better result.
So I guess I am saying buy the Bosch and see how you go,but I wouldn't spend much more until I had a better tool/machine for the job.
Cheers,

Originally Posted by dazzler

My 2c (having had a workcentre and table saw)

Sell the workcentre. You will get some good $$ for it.

Then buy a new Makita 235mm 2000 watt circular saw with a new blade and zero arbor float for $265.

Then build a new table saw out of ply and MDF using the saw - both to build and to power. Youtube has heaps of these builds.

Seriously, a properly built home table saw is cheaper than a workcentre and much much better.

Build an insulated cabinet for it, add in dust port at the bottom. Sweet.

Sadly I know nothing about which blade...


(NB Before anyone thinks I am bagging the triton I am just saying that instead of buying a new blade you could use the capital in the workcentre to fund a new blade AND a better tablesaw)

Thanks for the idea. However I'm not convinced it would be all that much better. I am reluctant to give up the Triton 2000 until I get a real table saw. However I will think more about your suggestion.


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Originally Posted by mase

So I guess I am saying buy the Bosch and see how you go,but I wouldn't spend much more until I had a better tool/machine for the job.
Cheers,

That's my assumption also.
Do do have an outfeed table for the work centre but I don't trust that thing to rip a whole panel in a straight line. Maybe I should try it.

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Originally Posted by DaveVman

Thanks for the idea. However I'm not convinced it would be all that much better. I am reluctant to give up the Triton 2000 until I get a real table saw. However I will think more about your suggestion.


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Thinking about this further... how does one make an accurate fence? If a home made table saw had an accurate and reliable fence that was easy to set then I'd see the advantage.

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For ripping solid wood you need a blade more like this https://www.carbatec.com.au/blades/c...e-suits-triton. Blades 60 tooth and above in 235mm diameter are strictly for crosscut work or working with laminated sheet material. You should also be able to get a good combination blade in 9", like this https://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU84R00.../dp/B0000225V9. You'd need to find one with a bigger arbor hole though.

It seems you're indicating that you have another saw that you use in the Triton table, you're not using the saw you're talking about in the Triton? Considering the use you're indicating, and the equipment you have, a combination blade would be a good compromise. If there is some wear in your saw bearings it may be possible to replace/shim the bearings to make the saw perform 'as good as new', although it wouldn't surprise me if the wobble is from the blade, not the saw. You can always make your own saw guide system or buy one of the aftermarket guides for use when breaking down sheet material.

Hi Dave

There are many options but the easiest way is to youtube search. At its most basic imagine your tablesaw top is a rectangle like a book lying flat. The edge is square and you need something to ride along that that then has a fence that runs at 90 degrees to it and parrallel to the blade. The only hard part is how it secures.

Ducking out to get pick up one of my sons but will have try and find a link to a good fence. I was amazed, truly amazed, at how easy it is.

Check out "Jers Woodshop" (jeremy schmidt) on youtube for an amazing indexed fence system.

I have a home made saw table made from a Makita 5900B 235mm circular saw. It's 2000W and I have made it with a decent surface area. My fence is as basic as it comes. I have to set it by measuring the distance from the blade with a steel rule and lock the fence in place with an Irwin quick clamp. I have cross cut and 45 degree sleds as well.
However, it's very accurate and I'll keep using it as I don't see the need, at the moment, to buy a table saw. It's one fault is that the screw lift method I use to change blade height prevents me from tilting the saw blade and making bevel cuts, but I have my SCMS.

Here are some shots of how a basic fence would work. U need to think abstract but basically it uses a French cleat rail as the rail and the other cleat attached to the 'fence'. If the table is dead square you can have the same at the back. Perfect alignment. Just need a clamp to stop it moving.



I have a router mounted in my assembly table that I plan on making a fence for.




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Originally Posted by aldav

It seems you're indicating that you have another saw that you use in the Triton table, you're not using the saw you're talking about in the Triton?

The 2000W 235mm circular saw usually stays in the Triton. In either table saw or cross cut mode. I take it out and use a jig to cut panels.(but could actually rip panels on the Triton if less than the fence capacity). Or perhaps if I really have to remove it for a DIY task. (Almost never). Just one saw.

The only other power saw I now have is a 305mm SCMS with a 100 tooth blade so I expect I will not often require the cross cut mode of the Triton any more.




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OK started checking out DIY fences on YouTube. There are some great ones!
I'm beginning to see how this could be an interim step while I save up for a table saw.

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Originally Posted by DaveVman

What is the difference between the brands for circular saw?
I still have the std blade that came with my corded circular saw. It's only 235mm but it's pretty grunty with a large foot. Slight wobble after 5+ years of light use.

I don't have a real table saw - just a Triton work centre. I don't want to invest much more on the workcentre but I don't have the coin to buy a table saw yet. I am trying to decide if it worth upgrading the blade to an 80 tooth blade in the circular saw.
Even if I didn't have the work center I would still use this circular saw to rip panel products to size. So perhaps a new blade with a lot of teeth would be nice anyway.(Although it would make ripping slower, I am in no hurry).

My options for my 235mm blade 25 mm arbour 80 teeth seem to be:
Bosch $53
Irwin $80
Austsaw $89

I expect the Bosch 80T would be a fair improvement on the existing blade. Are the other brands really that much better?

some of this has already been covered, but with circular saw blades the variables extend well beyond the name painted on the blade, or its colour.

variables that effect the quality and cost of a saw blade include
the grade of the carbide
the amount of carbide -- influences how many times the blade can be sharpened
the shape of the teeth -- there's a link above to some information on this
the angle of the teeth (hook angle)
the number of teeth for the particular blade diameter
the saw plate thickness -- thin kerf, normal kerf, thick kerf
the presence of a low friction or "gunk" resisting coating
the inclusion of expansion / noise reducing / heat dissipating cut-outs

there's probably more, but the above will get you started

for a top quality 10" blade you can expect to pay upwards of $3 per tooth.

For your 9-1/4 in circular saw, you could fit an 8" specialist blade when cutting sheet materials. The reduction in maximum depth of cut is irrelevant when the material being cut is less than 25 mm thick.


Edit: Meant to include
If shopping on Amazon, be a little careful of the comparisons.
I currently have with me a Freud Saw Blade catalog. It lists 22 different thin kerf wood saw blades and 29 different regular kerf blades, most of which are available in sizes from 7 inches to 12 inches, plus 8 blades described as suitable for "construction".