Thread: Compatibility of router and table

I am not 100% sure what you mean so do not want to offer advice that could be unsafe. Are you able to post an image?

The router is a plunge router. When fully raised (but being upside down it will be lowered) the bit should not be protruding through the table at all. As you plunge (or in this case raise) the body, the bit will progressively protrude through the table until you get to the desired depth. At this point you will need to lock the plunge on the router.

I'm with Handyjack. Been wondering about this statement "the bit is a bit too low as it protrudes through the hole". As to raising the bit in the collet, if that's what your asking, Carbitool state a insertion of 19mm (3/4") so raising the bit in the collet is not advisable.

Bits should always be well embedded in the collet. But never fully seated either. A collet tightens its grip on a bit's shank by being pushed into the router's arbor by the nut. The conical slide/s of the collet and/or collet's seat on the arbor tighten its grip as the collet is drawn inside. To push the bit fully inside can prevent adequate easy tightening, and may result in a stuck bit, incapable of being removed!

A collet extension permanently fitted to your setup whilst inverted will not only solve your problem, but may at the same time allow unplunged or semi plunged routing and even above table bit exchange.

collet extension router | eBay

Under NO circumstances should the bit be raised and shallowly tightened within the collet. To do so is dangerous, and courts disaster.

Thanks everyone for your responses. My problem was that when the router was installed upside down and locked down (or up) as far as it would go, the bit did not clear the hole. Thanks for the advice regarding a collet extension. I think that will be perfect for what I want to do. I have used the router freehand, but had not used a table before. I will get a collet extension before I use the table, and also I have noticed I can buy extra length bits. I wasn't going to use the router with the bit moved up, as I felt it was too dangerous to do so, but didn't know collet extensions were available. Thanks again, everyone.

Please be aware that a collet extension may not necessarily be the panacea you're seeking. I'd suggest you do some measurements first, just to ensure that everything protrudes as far, but not further, than required.

Also be aware that an extension may induce or even exacerbate existing balance & runout issues should the current or modified assembly have less than perfect concentricity. If vibration does become an issue, try loosening the extension in the router's collet and turn the assembly in 90 degree intervals until better balanced.

Seeing as how you are new to the use of routers, I suggest you try to contact someone local to you who is experienced in their use and ask for some tuition. Routers can really mess with your flesh if not used correctly and someone experienced can save you a lot of learning time.

Originally Posted by Snowyandbess

Thanks everyone for your responses. My problem was that when the router was installed upside down and locked down (or up) as far as it would go, the bit did not clear the hole. Thanks for the advice regarding a collet extension. I think that will be perfect for what I want to do. I have used the router freehand, but had not used a table before. I will get a collet extension before I use the table, and also I have noticed I can buy extra length bits. I wasn't going to use the router with the bit moved up, as I felt it was too dangerous to do so, but didn't know collet extensions were available. Thanks again, everyone.

Hi Snowy, and welcome to the forums

before going down the path of fitting a collet extension, options you can investigate are
1) removing the springs from the plunge mechanism. On one of my routers, doing this gives an extra 10mm of travel when the router is inverted.

2) removing or moving the plunge setting turret and depth gauge. Depending on the router this can gain an additional 5 to 10 mm of travel.

3) using long shank router bits -- especially when using 1/2" shank bits.

4) removing the base plate from the router. Depending on the design this can give an extr 2 to 3mm of extension through the table.


BUT
can you post a few photos of the set-up