Thread: Ozito SDS Rotary Hammer Drill

.a good sharp masonry bit...
. slow speed till through the render.
.render and brick is soft, so the bit should last.

I used the smaller ozito rotary hammer drill to drille a series of holes then open them out to create a 125 mm diameter hole in a 200 mm deep core filled besser block retaining wall about a month ago. Worked a treat much better than I anticipated. I used the included bits for the initial holes tehn used the 600 mm bit from a kit of 3 from bunnings ($27) and finished up with the included broad chisel.

I'd only ever used hilti's before and was pretty concerned how the ozito would hold up. The chap at bunnings gave me a wrap on work he'd done with his and talked me out of the larger and much heavier one. I also discovered the plumber had one he'd been abusing for about a year.

A hilti is a nicer thing to use, but the ozito never missed a beat and was about as quick as anything. Yeah a core drill would have been nicer but at $250 hire the ozito was what ? $107 for the machine kit and long bits. If a plumber can't kill one in a year....

Edit: I chipped some of the render, but it was late in the operation. The initial ring of 8 mm holes was fine, very little chipping around the holes.

Thanks guys,
I was wondering if the Ozito would be too aggressive on a rendered wall, eg when drilling small hole for picture hooks, where you just want a clean hole without damaging the render. The guy at Bunnings said it would not be his first tool of choice.

My other concern is that for some nylon plugs that support fixtures, the hole must be accurate, can you expect a slight wider hole with a rotary hammer drill as opposed to that with a standard hammer drill?
Zelk

The hammer action is more aggressive than a normal hammer drill, but the point of those tools is they can just hammer, just drill or do both, so it's like a hammer drill and small jack hammer in one.

They are not the optimum tool for what you want and if it were me I use a normal hammer drill. Technique and a good bit would be important I think.

I have a bosch blue hammer drill and that is what I would use for that work. I don't know what they cost nowdays. You kill a normal hammer drill doing what I did to the retaining wall. Different tools for different jobs.

2c.

For a 5mm hole in render & brick you could just about use a battery drill.

How many holes do you have to drill?

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

For a 5mm hole in render & brick you could just about use a battery drill.

How many holes do you have to drill?

Hi Cliff, in fact, that' what I do already, and it is painfully slow. I was interested to know, in particular from those who have used an Ozito or other brands, whether it was possible to produce an accurate and clean 5 mm hole.

I have a corded ' hand me down' hammer drill that requires a new chuck, estimated cost of repair is $120, a new Ozito is $89. I believe the SDS drill bits are far better than the smooth shank ones.

Damian, from further research I have found that there is a rotary hammer drill which happens to have a fast and slow BPM setting, not sure if the slow setting makes it comparable to a normal hammer drill.

Zelk

Originally Posted by zelk

Hi Cliff, in fact, that' what I do already, and it is painfully slow. I was interested to know, in particular from those who have used an Ozito or other brands, whether it was possible to produce an accurate and clean 5 mm hole. ...

I used mine to do the skirting boards in our house.

I was drilling into rendered block & since it was near the floor, I just laid the drill on the floor.
I also didn't care if it chipped a bit 'cos the skirting board covered it up.

If you need something to be very accurate & also help stop the chipping, make a thin ply template with a 5mm hole in it, hold it over the spot where you want the hole & drill through it.
It will help stop the wander & also help stop the chipping.

That's a good idea.

I don't think the hammer speed is the problem. RHD's are heavier machines for harder work. They are designed for putting holes in slabs for chemsets and stuff. My impression is the hammer action is more aggressive for faster cutting. I got little chipping when I was making the initial 8mm ring of holes in the render over the blocks, but I wasn't particularly trying to reduce chipping, I just didn't want slabs of render falling off.

I am not convinced the hex bits are necessarily better quality than the round ones. I think if your really after minimum chipping use a quality bit. Both come in various qualities at various price points. BTW you aren't supposed to use a chuck in hammer mode on the ozito. Voids the warrantee.

I wouldn't spend $120 on a repair unless the hammer drill is a bosch or makita trade quality. Depending on how much oyu expect to use it buy a new one of the appropriate price/quality. I've abused my bosh terribly and it keep on going.

You could try drilling the render without hammer and turn it on for the brick. Render isn't that hard to get through. Dunno, never tried it. How many holes are you drilling ?

As usual, I am trying to kill two birds with one stone. I was hoping to get a drill suitable for drilling of accurate holes in rendered walls and concrete at minimal effort using the more durable SDS bits. I am planing on renovating soon, so I need a versatile tool.
Zelk

Having drilled 5mm holes with one, I would say they are a tad over-powered for the application...the holes ended up as about 8mm due to the aggressive action.

It took longer to line the drill up to the right location than it actually took to make the hole.

Maybe switch the hammer off for the first 10 mm of the holes and see how that goes.

Originally Posted by Master Splinter

Having drilled 5mm holes with one, I would say they are a tad over-powered for the application...the holes ended up as about 8mm due to the aggressive action.

It took longer to line the drill up to the right location than it actually took to make the hole.

Maybe switch the hammer off for the first 10 mm of the holes and see how that goes.

Thanks MasterSplinter,
that's what I thought. I think I will try and repair my impact drill which is a Wolf brand, mod 2310. Hopefully in my case it's worth repairing.
Zelk

I do alot of drilling for 6mm spaghetti. I use this Hilti drill http://www.hilti.com.au/holau/module...=-8812&fview=1 and it is magic for drilling into wire cut bricks and render as you can decrease the hammer blow.

Alot of my work is in occupied office buildings and most don't allow noisy works during business hours (masonary drilling is the biggest no-no as it resonates through the entire building). We have used these bits by Bosch with sucsess as they don't require hammer function. They are alot slower but do leave a clean hole. http://www.bosch-pt.com.au/accboptoc...134901&lang=en

On those Ozito rotary drills, they are extremly popular on commercial building sites. Not so much by main users of masonary drilling (chippies, sparkies, plumbers), but still alot are always used. Probably mainly because Hilti's have a habit of growing legs on site.

Originally Posted by Kyle

I do alot of drilling for 6mm spaghetti. I use this Hilti drill http://www.hilti.com.au/holau/module...=-8812&fview=1 and it is magic for drilling into wire cut bricks and render as you can decrease the hammer blow.

Alot of my work is in occupied office buildings and most don't allow noisy works during business hours (masonary drilling is the biggest no-no as it resonates through the entire building). We have used these bits by Bosch with sucsess as they don't require hammer function. They are alot slower but do leave a clean hole. http://www.bosch-pt.com.au/accboptoc...134901&lang=en

On those Ozito rotary drills, they are extremly popular on commercial building sites. Not so much by main users of masonary drilling (chippies, sparkies, plumbers), but still alot are always used. Probably mainly because Hilti's have a habit of growing legs on site.

Thanks Kyle,
in actual fact, I was considering the Hilti TE 2-S and your TE 6-S for the fact that they have a sensitive mode or slower BPM for more delicate surfaces. I also like the feature that the TE 6-S has a dust removing option. But at the end of the day, would you use the slower impact mode on rendered internal brick wall without fear of cracking the render, assuming the render is tough? Or am I better of using an impact drill?
Zelk

If you are worried about cracking I would drill through the render with one of bosch bits I showed in the link or a good quality SDS bit (ie. Hilti) with NO hammer action. Then start hammer drilling once through the render.

If there is an area of the wall that is covered or never seen, maybe try a few practice holes first.