Thread: Need drill help..

Hi RC,

i will watch out for a reversing model and let you know when i found a decent one.
Ironbark seems to be particularly tough material, considering the stuff i read about tungsten bits (even at low cuttting speed) and so on. I don't know any comparable domestic wood type of this sort in Europe, but if it is so dense, how would conventional metal spiral drills fare in the job you have at hand? Metal drills are adaptable in many ways by the fashion they are ground. Forward speed, cutting edge angle, freerun angle a.s.o. can all be chosen to perfectly suit the material to be drilled. Their disadvantage is a quicker clogging up of the hollow spirals (often the cause of stalling), so they must be pulled back from the hole and freed from debris more often than spade drills or augers, but metal drills make very clean holes in hard wood and are longlasting. There is a wide variety with tapered shanks to fit heavy duty drills.
Judging by what i read, drilling in this wood type may somewhat resemble drilling in brass, or am i miles from the mark now? Is ironbark gritty and hard brittle or is it rather tough in a dried-up resin or gum sort of way and therefore high in friction when worked?

Anyway, as for torque, the Hitachi D13 can manage a max. 55 Nm of stalling torque (which is only a practical value for tightening screws) and will have something between 25 and 30 Nm to offer in nominal continuous duty circumstances, whereas most drills i showed can manage up to 150 Nm of nominal torque during actual all day long drilling! Some models even have peak values in excess of 220 Nm. I mean to say that, with three times or more the amount of torque of your previous drill, they can be trusted to pull through in those cases where the Hitachi stalled, so a reversing function may not be necessary.

Greetings

gerhard

Hi all,

i just searched for ironbark on the internet and it's a sort of eucalyptus tree. They don't grow in Europe, that's probably why i didn't know the material. Some people told me the wood is a bit like oak, but denser.
I know about some heavy duty drilling in oak here in Holland, like in our Batavia Wharf in Lelystad. Here replicas of the 17th century merchant sail ships "Batavia" and "The 7 Provinces" were built. In this wharf they also use Eibenstock and Metabo drills. The first pic shows a B7532-4 with a large auger and the second one an Eibenstock drill used for drilling very deep holes for tightening bolts. The pic shows such a bolt being driven in through a lengthening rod. The particular oak workpiece shown is a "galion knee"(galjoensknie) which is a load carrying and fixing part for the galion, a hand carved ornament protruding from the upper bow.

Here's the link of the wharf's website where the pics came from:

http://www.bataviawerf.nl/en/index.html

Further pics show the finished Batavia and a model of the "7 Provinciën", which will be finished around 2015, using the original construction methods and materials.

Something Dutch to be more proud of than those cheesy tulip bulbs, i think.

Greetings from Amsterdam!

gerhard

Only one drill is gauranteed not to burn out and that is an air drill. get 1/2 drill and a compressor and you will never have any problems. You can run them as slow as you want and they don't object at all and they keep your hands coll as well on a hot day. Another bonus is you can run multiple tools off the compressor and you don't have the inherent dangers of 240V on site.

Brilliant idea, i could have come up with that! Only my brains wouldn't allow me.

Trade Tools Direct have a 1050w variable speed drill with forward and reverse for $148 see here

Ok thanks for all the help everyone...We have had a discussion and have decided to go with a new Hitachi D13, we will run it with a much shorter extension cord and see how it goes.. Maybe some extra cooling might help it out..