Thread: Grinder Wheel

I went for the finer grade as I thought that I would be more so touching up the edge rather than trying to reform it. It may pay to get both if the dollars can stretch to it otherwise I would go for the fine and invest in the coarse later.
But if you want to be really confused read this .....
Timbecon
Stinky.

When selecting the grit to use what is most important is whether the wheel is hard or soft - not whether it is fine or coarse. In fact coarse grits are the softest so for smooth grinding select the coarsest grit (say 46 grit). This is contrary to what most people naturally think.

(Timbecon)

Stnky

I agree with this advice from Timbecon. The fact is that the speed of these grinders is too fast for anything but the initial grinding. You are in constant danger of burning the steel with the standard bench grinder. Specialist sharpeners travel at about 1/3 the speed of these. With regard the wheels, the finer grits heat up quickly and do more damage than good. My white wheel is a 60 grit and I still avoid using it if I can. In fact, I am restoring an old hand grinder to use in its place when I need to hollow grind planes and chisels. I am also looking at a way of using gears to slow down my grinder wheels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

I would tend to agree about the heat buildup. However I find when working with the finer grit on a 8" wheel there really isn't a problem. I find that I barely have to touch the wheel with the tool to get a fine edge, if more shaping is required I take my time, removing the tool from the wheel and putting it in the air draft to cool it down if need be. Overheating hasn't been a problem but there is always next weekend.

Restoring a hand grinder ..... whats that all about

Stnky :confused:

Thanks for your help guys. I guess I'll go for a coarse grit and take it very steady, I can buy a lot of blades for the 600 - 800 bucks some of the specialist sharpeners appear to cost.

Once again thanks.
Termite

PS: do speed controllers work on grinders?:confused:

Sorry I must have missed the bit about plane blades ... I was speaking more of turning tools .... Derek will know best about plane blades .... I don't even have one after missing out on the Ebay auction a few weeks ago :mad:
I will read the question with more care next time

Stinky

Here is a pic of the hand grinder. It will use a 200mm wheel (not yet in it).

Regards from Perth

Derek

I haven't seen one of these since I was an apprentice to Noah in his shipbuilding enterprise. I was the poor cow who had to turn the handle all day. Great bit of gear!
Regards
Termite

Termite,

I have two grinders ( one converted to buffing and polishing wheels ) and both have induction motors. I understand that the speed controllers do not work on induction motors.

Regards,

Peter

You don't need a speed control on a grinder you need sharpener control.

You the sharpener..... Use control when sharpening your tools and you won't burn them. A light touch on the wheel with a slow, steady, purposeful movement of the tool across the face of the wheel will give brilliant results and will keep the blade cool enough to touch without burning your fingers. Most people burn the blade because they are too impatient.

Strangely enough these are often the same people who buy Tormec's and the like that take 3 times longer to do the same job they were too impatient to do correctly on the much cheaper machine.

Slow down and ease off and you will get a perfect edge every time. Oh yeah, you also burn tools because you have a blunt grinding wheel. Dress it regularly with a good wheel dresser, preferably diamond and it will work a hell of a lot better for you.

If you must buy a control device for your grinder buy a good tool rest there are a number available and they will help make a dramatic difference in your grinding.

Just my humble thoughts on the subject.

Cheers - Neil

PS I would get a 46 or 60 grit for grinding and shaping and 120 grit for fine touch-up's.

Hey Peter (Sturdee), and Termite,

There are two types of speed controllers around.

-The first one is known by lots of names (variable speed drive, variable frequency drive, variable voltage variable frequency drive, etc etc). These are only used on Induction motors, but the motor has to be three phase.

-The second one is made for routers, jig saws, or anything with a brush/universal motor. These are usually called "universal motor speed control" or something like that (single phase only).



Dan

Do any of you think that if I build a slow grinder using a 1725 RPM motor & a jack shaft to further slow it down that it would be slowed down enough to keep it from flinging water from a water bath at the bottom of the wheel, say about 70 - 90 RPM?

The last week end of August I got to use a Tormek. ubeaut the amount of control you rightfully mention is a factor for the good tool rest but I found that the slower cooler grinding wheel turning away from me made it easier to concentrate on the fingernail grind that I was trying to make on my 3 different size lathe gouges. The tool holders are such a big help that I couldn't even begin to put a value on them.

I plan to purchase just the tool holders from Tormek that I need to go with my home made slow grinder.

Any suggestions or ideas are appreciated.

I believe I can make a slow wet grinder for a whole lot less that the cost of a Tormek.

I want to use the grinder mostly for sharpening lathe tools. I use the scary sharp method for my chisels & hand plane blades.

Sure I guess if your chisel/plane/ lathe tool is chipped like all get out. Or hasn't been sharpend in years I can see that doing the initial sharpening/shapeing on some sought of grinder would have it's place.

But if you where instead to invest your money in the actual quality of the steel in the item you intend to sharpen. what's wrong with a good quality dimond stone a good quality wet stone ( convex or is it concave? for gouges) a peice of leather and some metal polishing compound for the final stopping (you will end up with a superb mirror finish!) for getting a super sharp razor finish every time?

Of course like all the important things in life it takes time to learn how to do it right but it CAN be learnt. And the beauty of it all is that the entire sahrpening system will paracticaly fit in your back pocket and cost you one hell of a lot less then any fancy Tormek.


IMHO (In My Humble Opinion) I think it's more important to focus on the quality of the tool it's self and not so much on the grinder to sharpen it.

Iv'e had my Pfeil carving chisles for quite some time now. And just useing a dimond stone a wet stone and the leather strop. With these most humble items I can get a razor finish every time. But TIME is the word to take note of here it does take skill and time to do it . But once you master how to go about it you will never EVER need a grinder to sharpen again.

Just some rambilings over a cold beer and something to ponder

Cheers!

Original Bart - If it is lathe tools you are going to be grinding then don't even think about a slow grinder. Get a good HS grinder and white wheels. Then get a lesson or two in sharpening the tools. You will find it easier to use the tool rest as a hand rest when grinding fingernail gouges etc.

If you really must have a jig take a look at the Heli-Grind or maybe the Tru-Grind. My personal preference (if I was in need of a jig, which I'm not) would be for Heli-Grind an Australian product that has been tested and by some of our best turners and given a big thumbs up by all.

I think it is available from Carroll's Woodcrafts. There are adds for both tools in the Aust. Woodworker Mag.

Cheers - Neil