Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Heated blade

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Gippsland, Vic
    Age
    72
    Posts
    4,608

    Default Heated blade

    G'day all
    Can anyone suggest how to fix a blade that has been over heated during sharpening (no, I didn't do it). The pictured Stanley #78 blade has a mark I made indicating where the "blueing" is (terminology??). I've sharpened it to a mirror finish by hand and it doesn't show on the sharpened side.
    Cheers, any advice gratefully received.
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Perth hills
    Age
    45
    Posts
    1,060

    Default

    Try putting it in the freezer. Haven't you heard of cryogenically treated blades?

    Seriously though folks, common wisdon would say the the steel is cactus and you'll have to grind it away.
    Cheers,

    Adam

    ------------------------------------------

    I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Japan。
    Age
    49
    Posts
    1,622

    Default

    Yep, carefully grind back past the 'burned' part or re-harden and temper.

    Depending on the weapon in question and it's intended target, you might get away with it soft, till you naturally get into the hard steel through grinding and honing.

    Good luck, and when grinding bigger is better for keeping the heat away.

    As is a big bucket of water.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
    Age
    69
    Posts
    3,925

    Default Lazy man's way to hone your skills.

    The responses so far are correct. I wonder though, just how soft that area has become. It might still be useable, although it would require more frequent sharpenings. I would be tempted to hone what you have and see how durable the edge ends up being.

    Greg

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Gippsland, Vic
    Age
    72
    Posts
    4,608

    Default

    Hmm..I don't know what the original length of a No. 78 blade is so I'm not sure how much to grind away. I might do as Greg suggests and just use it nas it is. I wonder where I could buy another notched no. 78 blade. Any idea guys?:confused:
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
    Age
    69
    Posts
    3,925

    Default

    I think that I saw one on the display of old stock at a local tool outlet. I'll swing by there tomorrow and check. If its there, I'll get them to hold it and send you a pm.

    Greg

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,826

    Default

    Just a couple of points about the #78.

    Firstly, I purchased a blade for mine (actually a Record #778) from LN - it is thicker and holds an edge much better. If you are looking to replace your #78 with a blade that will improve its performance, then consider one from them.

    Secondly, handle these planes with care! They have got to be the most dangerous I have ever experienced - I have lost count of the number of times I have knicked a finger on the sharp edge of the protruding bevel.

    %&#@!!!!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Gippsland, Vic
    Age
    72
    Posts
    4,608

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen
    Just a couple of points about the #78.

    Firstly, I purchased a blade for mine (actually a Record #778) from LN - it is thicker and holds an edge much better. If you are looking to replace your #78 with a blade that will improve its performance, then consider one from them.

    Secondly, handle these planes with care! They have got to be the most dangerous I have ever experienced - I have lost count of the number of times I have knicked a finger on the sharp edge of the protruding bevel.

    %&#@!!!!

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Ta for the warning Derek . I learnt my lesson feeding my finger into the table saw. Very watchful now. I reckon you'd have to be really careful with the inbuilt scriber thingy. I exposed the one on my 78 and it is razor sharp.:eek:
    Cheers
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Gippsland, Vic
    Age
    72
    Posts
    4,608

    Thumbs up Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by gregoryq
    I think that I saw one on the display of old stock at a local tool outlet. I'll swing by there tomorrow and check. If its there, I'll get them to hold it and send you a pm.

    Greg
    Thanks mate!
    Mine is a post 1920 model. It has the lever operated notched blade.
    Cheers
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


Similar Threads

  1. ML-392 blade setting technique
    By Redback in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 8th October 2006, 08:05 PM
  2. Bandsaw Blade Issue
    By Steve Zipperman in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 21st December 2005, 10:38 PM
  3. Lie-Nielsen and the National debt.
    By monoman in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 55
    Last Post: 31st August 2005, 07:43 PM
  4. Grinding (shaping) a blade for a scrub plane
    By derekcohen in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 17th May 2005, 03:14 PM
  5. Blade Height Winder Review
    By Noel Butcher in forum TRITON / GMC
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 13th May 2000, 02:31 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •