Thread: Help diagnose tracksaw problem

Is there any play in the thingo that determines the angle of the cut?

No play in any part of the saw bracket.

I keep coming back to a bearing (but there is no unusual noise) or play in the arbor - I can feel a minute but of play with the blade off, but not with it on - if there was play, how much is needed to cause such a rough cut, and why only on one side of (both) blades and not the other?

Regards from Perth

Derek

If I had a problem like this, Derek, I would probably post here and hope you responded.

A burnt kerf usually indicates a very blunt blade or you are trying to work it too fast - cut too deep, or cutting too fast. Do not think that is likely. Faulty bearing would probably cause vibration and/or noise. Eliminates this option.

Is it possible that the blade is not absolutely parallel to the track?

Is it possible that the timber moves slightly during the cutting?

I am intrigued.

Unfortunately (for your pocket) it almost certainly has to be the blade, doesn't it? Having said that, I'm surprised the cheap thin kerf blade doesn't manage a better crosscut than that. Is the blade running at 90 degrees to the saw body and shoe, and therefore to the track? Are the cuts square?

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

If I had a problem like this, Derek, I would probably post here and hope you responded.

A burnt kerf usually indicates a very blunt blade or you are trying to work it too fast - cut too deep, or cutting too fast. Do not think that is likely. Faulty bearing would probably cause vibration and/or noise. Eliminates this option.

Is it possible that the blade is not absolutely parallel to the track?

Is it possible that the timber moves slightly during the cutting?

I am intrigued.

Graeme, it does not sound like a worn bearing is creating play - I cannot hear or feel this. I only thought of it as a possibility when brain storming possibilities.

I believe I am cutting the same way as ever and that the burning with the thinner blade is due to it flexing. Cheap (albeit new) blade?

The timber is clamped down (I did consider it may be moving).

The saw cut perfectly about a month ago when sawing up 2" thick Rock Maple for seats ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by aldav

Unfortunately (for your pocket) it almost certainly has to be the blade, doesn't it? Having said that, I'm surprised the cheap thin kerf blade doesn't manage a better crosscut than that. Is the blade running at 90 degrees to the saw body and shoe, and therefore to the track? Are the cuts square?

I am also puzzled by the burning from the thin blade. I had not used it before now.

The blade is set up square. The cuts are square.

Here is a kerf cut in MDF. The kerf should be 2.8mm wide. It is around 5mm here, and it has a double depression. Have you seen anything like this before? It appears to be to be the result of the teeth end moving (and the blade is locked down solid).



Regards from Perth

Derek

How many Watts is the AT65E?. I had a similar problem when I brought a Makita Tracksaw. I found out it was under powered when cutting through 30mm Oak so I got rid of it and brought a 1600w Makita Circular Saw and made my own track adapter for it.

You most likely already know this Derek but I thought it worth mentioning that lower number of blade teeth help in thick lumber.

Originally Posted by EagerBeaver71

You most likely already know this Derek but I thought it worth mentioning that lower number of blade teeth help in thick lumber.

EB, that is the case when ripping, and taking as thick a cut as possible. I only use this saw for crosscutting, and when the wood is thick, I will take a few cuts to reduce the demands made on the saw.

Also, to answer the question about power, this saw is actually a little more powerful than its replacement, the 55-range. Power is not the issue. Also neither is speed - too great a speed would cause burning but not a rough cut. (The saw is variable speed).

All good ideas, guys. I hope I do not sound negative, just answers to the points raised.

Regards from Perth

Derek

The photo of the blade in the open housing shows that the blade has actually hit the housing as it was plunged. This would indicate that something is not right with either the blade or the way it is mounted on the saw.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

The photo of the blade in the open housing shows that the blade has actually hit the housing as it was plunged.

Well spotted. Definitely something not right there.

Originally Posted by Bohdan

The photo of the blade in the open housing shows that the blade has actually hit the housing as it was plunged. This would indicate that something is not right with either the blade or the way it is mounted on the saw.

Recall, I mentioned this at the start. The blade had not been fully tightened down, and power was stopped as soon as I heard the sound of the blade hitting the aluminium chassis. My concern (in retrospect) was that this caused some damage to the bearing (I still wonder about this). But aluminium should not be an issue (wood saw blades cut aluminium) and the saw was later used to cut Rock Maple successfully.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Bohdan

The photo of the blade in the open housing shows that the blade has actually hit the housing as it was plunged. ...

Well spotted.

If you look at the two errant kerfs that you cut in the MDF you will seel that the right hand track the blade is vertical but in the left hand track it is angled. It only angles in one direction - which is consistent with the blade scraping on the housing.

Kerfs.jpg

It may be the blade ... how could I check this without another blade (and noting that the thin blade did not play well)? I shall try and find another blade?


Regards from Perth


Derek