Thread: Help finding router bit

Dave
I think you are going to have trouble buying an "off the shelf" router bit the same as your sample.
What has probably happened is that the sashes when being made were run over a spindle moulder. The knives that joinery shops used may have been "off the shelf" patterns but as the were sharpened, as time went by, the shape may have changed as the knife was ground back to sharp. Every time this was done the actual shape would change, hence making the sashes to have a "unique profile" moulded into them. So now in 2013 when you come along you may find that there is no matching profile available (especially for a router)

Originally Posted by chambezio

Dave
I think you are going to have trouble buying an "off the shelf" router bit the same as your sample.
What has probably happened is that the sashes when being made were run over a spindle moulder. The knives that joinery shops used may have been "off the shelf" patterns but as the were sharpened, as time went by, the shape may have changed as the knife was ground back to sharp. Every time this was done the actual shape would change, hence making the sashes to have a "unique profile" moulded into them. So now in 2013 when you come along you may find that there is no matching profile available (especially for a router)

I was afraid that might be the case. I've only got 4 sashes to do. How viable would it be for someone on the metal working section to make something up?

Hi,
Try another route, get yourself a cabinet scraper (or use one you have) and file it to shape then sharpen (raise a burr etc.) as usual and Bob's your Mother' brother.
Regards

Originally Posted by A Duke

Hi,
Try another route, get yourself a cabinet scraper (or use one you have) and file it to shape then sharpen (raise a burr etc.) as usual and Bob's your Mother' brother.
Regards

I am considering it ... Last resort.

Originally Posted by A Duke

Hi,
Try another route, get yourself a cabinet scraper (or use one you have) and file it to shape then sharpen (raise a burr etc.) as usual and Bob's your Mother' brother.
Regards

I think this would be the easiest and quickest option. Once you have filed the scraper (or a piece of thick sheet metal) to shape you'd be finished in a number of hours, including drink stops. Definitely quicker than getting something made up elsewhere.

These cutters do exist, try searching for 'table edge' cutters.

Even so, they will still cost the thick end of $100 and need to be sent from the US.

Paint stripper and scraper would be far quicker.

Dave the bit is called a Roman Ogee sizes available MLCS Edge Banding and Roman Ogee Router Bits

I have one or two but will have to check sizes your after I doubt it tho as Rod said old sizes in comparison to metric maybe a good old wooden plane might be the trick

Originally Posted by cadas

These cutters do exist, try searching for 'table edge' cutters.

Even so, they will still cost the thick end of $100 and need to be sent from the US.

Paint stripper and scraper would be far quicker.

That looks like the shape only it is wide instead of high so I would not be able to get into the corners as well

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Dave the bit is called a Roman Ogee sizes available MLCS Edge Banding and Roman Ogee Router Bits

I have one or two but will have to check sizes your after I doubt it tho as Rod said old sizes in comparison to metric maybe a good old wooden plane might be the trick

Close ray bit no cigar. However, I did use that link to find the one above. Thanks.

If anyone happens to know of one in the orientation I'm looking for I'm still looking.

Hey Dave,
Interesting task you have,
as a window maker, installer and repairer of period timber windows I would have to agree with 'cadas' and wheelinround' finding the exact router or cutter bit to suit old sash profiles could be a long and expensive mission.
In the past we have had specific cutters (for spindle moulder and router) made up to suit a job and they dont come cheap. Those cutters are have been collecting dusts since because alot of jobs are a different profile.

So for your one-off repair, and guessing you have already removed the glass, I'd recommend the scraper method. It's very quick using with paint stripper.
Can I ask are you stripping to bare timber in order to varnish/stain them or just to repaint? Also, are your double-hung sashes on ropes/pulleys or spiral balances?

Originally Posted by slidingdovetail

Hey Dave,
Interesting task you have,
as a window maker, installer and repairer of period timber windows I would have to agree with 'cadas' and wheelinround' finding the exact router or cutter bit to suit old sash profiles could be a long and expensive mission.
In the past we have had specific cutters (for spindle moulder and router) made up to suit a job and they dont come cheap. Those cutters are have been collecting dusts since because alot of jobs are a different profile.

So for your one-off repair, and guessing you have already removed the glass, I'd recommend the scraper method. It's very quick using with paint stripper.
Can I ask are you stripping to bare timber in order to varnish/stain them or just to repaint? Also, are your double-hung sashes on ropes/pulleys or spiral balances?

double hung on rope and pulley, yes glass is removed and I want to varnish. The main frame is removed, it is the cheapest of double hung pulley and weight system I have worked with.

the sill is quite bad but I can get away with it

All the flat areas I have done or can finish with a sander

Some windows Ive worked with had the weight completely encased with a divider fin so the weights would not clip each other if being raised or lowered in a hurry (of course this style still had the access panel and the divider fin stopped at about this point so you could reach both weights if replacing the ropes. Ive used the stripper, it still needs to be scrapped. Due to state of degrade the windows are very soft in places and a router would be the cleanest way to strip it, I could cut a slightly new profile, there is a total of two windows, 4 sashes on the one side of the house.

It is for my own home but I have serviced numerous windows in the past.

I would have got back to you earlier but got called out to a motor vehicle accident and just got back home.

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

double hung on rope and pulley, yes glass is removed and I want to varnish. The main frame is removed, it is the cheapest of double hung pulley and weight system I have worked with.

the sill is quite bad but I can get away with it

All the flat areas I have done or can finish with a sander

Some windows Ive worked with had the weight completely encased with a divider fin so the weights would not clip each other if being raised or lowered in a hurry (of course this style still had the access panel and the divider fin stopped at about this point so you could reach both weights if replacing the ropes. Ive used the stripper, it still needs to be scrapped. Due to state of degrade the windows are very soft in places and a router would be the cleanest way to strip it, I could cut a slightly new profile, there is a total of two windows, 4 sashes on the one side of the house.

It is for my own home but I have serviced numerous windows in the past.

I would have got back to you earlier but got called out to a motor vehicle accident and just got back home.

Yeah the weight divider styles are fantastic to repair with, esp when the access panels are also in 2 parts either side of the parting beads, making rope replacements isolated and easy.

I hope the soft sections wont hinder the varnishing? I'm not sure if it will give a different appearance (with varnish) but I've found Earls wood hardener to be ok.

I hope you manage to rig something up for the sash stripping,
If the sashes aren't matching any other windows in the same room, Maybe, as another option will be routing out a new profile that's similar? That way the soft sections may be taken out and you have something cleaner to varnish. But on the flipside, a new glazing rebate may be needed and possibly glass too.

Good luck mate

I cant remember which way round they are - I think the bottom sash has a groove in the upper rail and as there is a muntin dividing the sash in 2 it means I need to replace to pieces of glass. The windows date back to about the turn of the last century so the putty was hard as and could not ease the glass out.

I may have to hit you up for some springs for the kitchen. The windows there are double hung on springs, I have about a dozen sets of springs that need replacing. I have not checked them all, the windows are all stiff but that could be paint etc.

First project is to get the window back in, its cold here and no window does not help the overall warmth of the house.
Ill check out that other stuff you mentioned too. The hardner.

I've repaired a fair few of these and I can see what you are trying to do. I think you will struggle finding a bit without custom making. I would also be worried about the potential for destruction if a bit buries itself or kicks back...... New window time.

Can you send for dipping? Then use hardener, plus carving in new bits where needed.

One other method I have used on a very complicated profile, where the paint was old but sound, was to wax the profile well and then apply car body filler along a 4" section. I added a bit of reinforcement and on later versions a bit of wood for a handle.

When set and removed, sandpaper can be folded into profile.

Basically making a custom profile sanding block.

ok custom sandpaper block could work, I guess if I got a highspeed bit without tungsten I could just try and reshape it on the grinder