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5th September 2005, 12:28 PM #1New Member
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Impact Drill - Damaging drill bits
Hi all, I've bought a impact drill and some qood quality bosch carbine tipped drill bits. Im not sure what I'm doing wrong, but after I drill a hole into some brick the drill bit is basically stuffed.
What could I be doing wrong? The drill is in impact mode, on the slowest speed setting. Any feedback would be appreciated.
Cheers
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5th September 2005, 12:47 PM #2
First of all is a Rotary Hammer Drill (Operates with a hammer creating a cushion of air hitting on a hammer within the drill) or is it a Percussion Drill that (Operates by creating the hammer action with two ratchets.) There is a big difference in the types of drill bits that they use.
Another important thing is that with all percussion/hammer drills you must clear the debris out of the hole constantly by pulling the drill in and out of the hole otherwise the tip will overheat and be damaged.
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5th September 2005, 12:54 PM #3New Member
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Thanks for the reply, the drill is this model here http://tinyurl.com/dlvxp
Which is a Percussion Drill.
Another important thing is that with all percussion/hammer drills you must clear the debris out of the hole constantly by pulling the drill in and out of the hole otherwise the tip will overheat and be damaged.
Also on the slowest speed settting, is it safe to pull the trigger right back, or is that still too much speed? Should I lock the trigger it into a much slower speed?
Cheers
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5th September 2005, 01:18 PM #4Originally Posted by BassTeQ
I have seen drill bits get red hot and lose the tip out of the drill bit because the brasing that fixes the tip into the bit goes soft and allows it to fall out.
BTW welcome to the forum and enjoy your stay.
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5th September 2005, 01:43 PM #5New Member
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Thanks for the tips, I'll give it another shot and see how we go.
Cheers
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5th September 2005, 08:28 PM #6
welcome to the forum,
It sounds like you are not giving the bit enough rotational speed, if you run it on 'hammer' only you will very soon destroy your good tungsten tipped drill bits, the point geometry requires rotation as well as impact as this gives each tip a glancing blow rather than a straight impact and the brazing is designed to hold the tip for a glancing blow. give it the gun my son! Fletty
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6th September 2005, 01:11 PM #7
Speed is directly proportional to the size of bit you are using. If it is, say a 1/4 inch bit, just go flat out. Drill about 1/2 inch in then clear, repeat till you get to depth.
If you are using big bits, use a lower speed and use a similar principal to above. It doesn't hurt to keep a jar of water near by to dip the drill bit into to cool it.
DanIs there anything easier done than said?- Stacky. The bottom pub, Cobram.
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6th September 2005, 01:38 PM #8Senior Member
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I had a heap of 5mm holes to drill in concret a while ago. The bits I started with lasted about 1.5 holes per bit. I went and spent $14 on a ramset bit and it finished the job and is still going strong.
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6th September 2005, 07:41 PM #9Originally Posted by BassTeQ
Apart from that it's usually a matter of matching the drill's speed to the size of bit your using and clearing the debris from the hole — I find you can usually tell that the bit needs clearing by a change in the drilling sound.
ian
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7th September 2005, 12:19 AM #10
Somethings got to be wrong. I drilled a few hundred small holes in very hard prison concrete one time & only went thru 2 or 3 drills.
I am very suspicious of "power tool branded" drills, if it matters buy drills of a brill manufacturers brand, like p&n, evaacut, sutton & you shouldn't have a problem.
You also need to have good method, you must push firmly stedily with a ordinary hammer drill too little preasure & you go nowhere & heat up the drill too.
like this....puuush.. clear...puuuush... clear. You must also look and listen. The sound should be right ( hard to describe ) and the waste should be comming out freely. it the waste is compacted or not flowing freely you arent clearing often enough. If the waste is getting compacted in the hole the hammering sound will get dull & progress will slow.
I know this sounds like raving but look at & listen to your tools always.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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7th September 2005, 11:34 AM #11
Dan, don't dip them in water. Tungsten has a nasty habit of shattering when it really hot and gets cold really fast.
I have blown one bit drilling into a cable. End was vaporized. Another the tungsten basically exploded after drilling 15 or so holes, the last one hit a drain pipe. From hot to cold instantly. Pulled the drill out and 3/4 of the tip was missing. :eek:
Don't worry too much about how hot they get, as long as they don't overheat and melt the brazing. Seriously hot to do that, so pay attention but don't get too concerned.
With a regular drill, it's going to be slow going, it's going to be noisy and it's going to be pretty dirty to drill any proper kind of hole. I have drilled 1/2" double brick and each hole was about 10 minutes. Drill, clear, drill, clear, etc, etc. Also need to let the drill and bit cool. A big PITA.
And you have the find the sweet spot as Soundman said. Both speed and pressure.
If you have more than 20 or so holes, rent/borrow/buy a proper drill for the job. That means SDS or SDS+ drills, Rotary hammer that is.
The difference is 20 decent holes in maybe a few hours to 20 decent holes in 5 minutes. Much faster, safer, quieter and easier. But they are expensive...
We used to use 5mm drills until they were worn out. I mean they were nearly breaking they were so thin at the tip. No flutes, just a stick with tungsten tips. That's thousands of holes though.
Maybe also explains my left ear aint as good as it could be. Even with earmuffs most of the time.
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7th September 2005, 12:58 PM #12New Member
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Thanks everyone for the great assistance!
Originally Posted by ian
Cheers
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7th September 2005, 02:57 PM #13
I only use Sutton masonry drill bits - never had a problem with one wearing out etc and I ahve done a stack of round the house use. Pick them up from bunnings at a few bucks a pop. Too easy.
TravSome days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen
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7th September 2005, 03:19 PM #14Senior Member
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Has any one tried one of the $99 hammer drills out. The ones that have the moter at right angles to the bit like my kanga.
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7th September 2005, 05:24 PM #15
the great escape
Originally Posted by soundman
glad to see you made it out! Very thoughtful of your mum to sneak in a rotary hammer drill inside a cake , pity she didn't give you larger drill bits!
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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